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#Post#: 61849--------------------------------------------------
R16
By: The Ripper Date: September 21, 2015, 7:26 pm
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Lost compression and after disassembly I found a broken ring,so
I ordered a new assembly but I'm unable to remove piston pin.
Are there any tricks in removing the pin or should I just
install the new rings from the new piston to old piston?
Also are there any suggestive mods to increase the oil volume
to the bar?
#Post#: 61880--------------------------------------------------
Re: R16
By: Chainsawrepair Date: September 22, 2015, 1:20 pm
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Cant get the pin off the rod knocking it through from one side
of piston? Is it a pressed in pin I wonder?
Dont hit me, but did you remove circlips?
#Post#: 61888--------------------------------------------------
Re: R16
By: 67L36Driver Date: September 22, 2015, 5:01 pm
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The above and, shoot some WD40 in there to break up the fuel/oil
varnish.
#Post#: 61890--------------------------------------------------
Re: R16
By: The Ripper Date: September 22, 2015, 5:18 pm
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Yes I removed pin clips and am now soaking it in hopes of
breaking it loose.
#Post#: 62056--------------------------------------------------
Re: R16
By: The Ripper Date: September 24, 2015, 8:13 pm
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Got the new piston installed,compression down just a
bit,hopefully that'll increase once the rings get seated.
#Post#: 63858--------------------------------------------------
Re: R16
By: The Ripper Date: October 25, 2015, 4:55 pm
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I don't know how much compression is to much but after a few
tanks of gas and the rings seating,I finally got my compression
gage out and the compression sets right at 200 PSI. ( I triple
checked it ) The aftermarket piston has a slightly higher dome
which accounts for the extra 25 psi increase. I gotta tell this
R16 is just a beast will all kinds of torque and wants to be run
on the very edge of being lean other wise it looses power. I use
HR1 mixed at 32.1 for insurance. This is a definite keeper. Now
it's on to the 3.7 rebuild.
#Post#: 63863--------------------------------------------------
Re: R16
By: SawTroll Date: October 25, 2015, 7:40 pm
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The main disadvantage of the R16 vs. most later models of
basically the same design is that it lacks any kind of AV.
Check the squish of that saw, it may be too tight.
#Post#: 63870--------------------------------------------------
Re: R16
By: The Ripper Date: October 25, 2015, 8:33 pm
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The squish is .024. Compression was 175 after deleting base
gasket and bumped up after installing new piston. As for the
AV,this saw is very smooth running in the cut believe it or not
unlike some non av, which is why I plan on keeping it.
#Post#: 63873--------------------------------------------------
Re: R16
By: Hoggwood Date: October 25, 2015, 10:22 pm
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I don't think there is much you can do about those oil pumps and
the output. I've an F55 in need of a new pump. It is an odd
design. A rod drives against a band of spring steel with a
tooth that engages the pump "gear". The surface of the gear and
tooth were worn to the point they slipped. I attempted to dress
the tooth on the band and bend it. It fatigued and broke.
Unless those two mating surfaces engage continuously, you will
have no, little, or sporadic flow. When healthy, the oil output
is more than adequate. I'd a Skil version I fixed up for my
father and it slung the oil well.
I suspect the end of the rod that drives the band gets worn over
time and provides less and less travel. It too can limit the
effectiveness of the pump.
I've been on the lookout for an affordable replacement for some
time. No dice.
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