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#Post#: 78275--------------------------------------------------
Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
By: Chainsawrepair Date: July 31, 2017, 8:19 am
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I see what your saying.
(HTM) https://www.amazon.com/Washington-Alloy-AZ92A-Magnesium-Diameter/dp/B06XP17F4L
On ebay a seller will do that to keep you from buying stuff that
is out of stock. That way they dont have to pay to relist it
later. Just my WAG
#Post#: 78288--------------------------------------------------
Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
By: chy_farm Date: August 1, 2017, 8:42 am
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[quote author=Cut4fun . link=topic=737.msg78275#msg78275
date=1501507174]
I see what your saying.
(HTM) https://www.amazon.com/Washington-Alloy-AZ92A-Magnesium-Diameter/dp/B06XP17F4L
On ebay a seller will do that to keep you from buying stuff that
is out of stock. That way they dont have to pay to relist it
later. Just my WAG [/quote]
Thanks Kevin, funny to me is that the terrible price was gone
from this site, lol. I shot email to Washington Alloy on this
but they do not reply yet, may be they do not have this in their
inventory....
Chy
#Post#: 78948--------------------------------------------------
Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
By: chy_farm Date: September 26, 2017, 8:03 am
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[quote author=3000 FPS link=topic=737.msg12550#msg12550
date=1351449913]
-----------This was done with a backing material and just ran a
bead along the edge unitl it I got it built up. I did this from
both sides so that there would be enough material to shape when
done welding.
[/quote]
Good evening Roger, hope everything is going well with you.
I wish you could give me some tips on this 'backing material',
remember you have posted that you used copper or something for
this. Today I tried mag welding for the first time in my life,
lol, and used a strip of steel bar for this but failed.
This was it, a clutch cover from McCulloch 300.
[attachimg=1]
To its half way the puddle and bead were both keeping its
way(not very good though, lol), but from 3 quarter the last part
fell off!
[attachimg=2]
My presumption is that this backing steel bar sucked excessive
heat to the point it melts the mag. I should have used much
bigger sheet....
So a better way could be using rather thick sheet metal which
has greater heat conductivity than steel.
After this I had to rebuild the wall again with some filler rod.
[attachimg=3]
Your tips on 'How to use backing heat sink plate' will be very
much appreciated, thanks in ahead.
Chy
#Post#: 78950--------------------------------------------------
Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
By: 3000 FPS Date: September 26, 2017, 1:56 pm
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Sorry did not see this earlier. I was in New York on Holiday.
First I would have sand blasted the whole area to get it cleaner
on both sides.
Then heat control with the amperage is very critical to help
prevent that falling away.
For a backing material I have use sheet metal some 3/16 steel
plate and even a torx wrench one time.
It is not that critical as long as it is a material that the mag
will not stick to.
This is why you need to practice on some test pieces to get the
heat control.
Also some of that pitting will not be as severe if you sand
blast it.
#Post#: 78951--------------------------------------------------
Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
By: 3000 FPS Date: September 26, 2017, 2:02 pm
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You do not have to use a backing material.
You can just run a bead back and forth on the edge to build it
back up to the length that you need and the shape it with
various tools. Do not worry about what the weld looks like as
long as you have enough material on it to shape it.
#Post#: 78957--------------------------------------------------
Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
By: chy_farm Date: September 26, 2017, 5:46 pm
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[quote author=3000 FPS link=topic=737.msg78950#msg78950
date=1506452190]
First I would have sand blasted the whole area to get it cleaner
on both sides.
Then heat control with the amperage is very critical to help
prevent that falling away.
For a backing material I have use sheet metal some 3/16 steel
plate and even a torx wrench one time.
It is not that critical as long as it is a material that the mag
will not stick to.
This is why you need to practice on some test pieces to get the
heat control.
Also some of that pitting will not be as severe if you sand
blast it.
--------------------------------------------------------
You do not have to use a backing material.
You can just run a bead back and forth on the edge to build it
back up to the length that you need and the shape it with
various tools.
Do not worry about what the weld looks like as long as you have
enough material on it to shape it.
[/quote]
Good morning Roger, thank you for your tips. These help me a
lot!
As far the heat control I am posting a setting conditions for
amperage here below.
[attachimg=1]
I use 50A for the welding pulse current, to where the mag alloy
is thicker than 2mm,
if it's thinner than 2mm use 35A.
In case of filling holes or rebuilding walls on the mother
material, use 25A.
Any tips should be appreciated on this, thanks again.
Chy
#Post#: 78958--------------------------------------------------
Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
By: 3000 FPS Date: September 26, 2017, 6:23 pm
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The welder I have will let me adjust the amperage as I am
welding. So if the puddle does not look right then I can
adjust the heat accordingly.
My welder is set to a max of 200 amps but because I can adjust
while welding I do not worry about what amperage is actually
being determined by the welder just as long as the puddle looks
good to me. That is the one thing about Tig welding on
magnesium is that the puddle can be tricky to see if it is good.
#Post#: 78959--------------------------------------------------
Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
By: chy_farm Date: September 26, 2017, 6:51 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
[quote author=3000 FPS link=topic=737.msg78958#msg78958
date=1506468239]
The welder I have will let me adjust the amperage as I am
welding. So if the puddle does not look right then I can
adjust the heat accordingly.
My welder is set to a max of 200 amps but because I can adjust
while welding I do not worry about what amperage is actually
being determined by the welder just as long as the puddle looks
good to me. That is the one thing about Tig welding on
magnesium is that the puddle can be tricky to see if it is good.
[/quote]
Yep I understand it Roger, thanks. Will keep this in mind.
One thing I did not see before this was that mag welding emits
green light from the arc, though I do not know it's really green
since I see it through protector glasses, lol.
Chy
#Post#: 78962--------------------------------------------------
Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
By: 3000 FPS Date: September 26, 2017, 10:22 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
[quote author=chy_farm link=topic=737.msg78959#msg78959
date=1506469894]
[quote author=3000 FPS link=topic=737.msg78958#msg78958
date=1506468239]
The welder I have will let me adjust the amperage as I am
welding. So if the puddle does not look right then I can
adjust the heat accordingly.
My welder is set to a max of 200 amps but because I can adjust
while welding I do not worry about what amperage is actually
being determined by the welder just as long as the puddle looks
good to me. That is the one thing about Tig welding on
magnesium is that the puddle can be tricky to see if it is good.
[/quote]
Yep I understand it Roger, thanks. Will keep this in mind.
One thing I did not see before this was that mag welding emits
green light from the arc, though I do not know it's really green
since I see it through protector glasses, lol.
Chy
[/quote]
The arc from a Tig welder is not green and just appears that way
through the welding lens. The Welding helmet I have is a auto
darkening with an adjustable setting for how dark I need it.
The arc on mine does not appear green.
Also the arc from a Tig welder is very strong and will sun burn
any exposed skin very quickly. So cover your self when
welding good.
#Post#: 78963--------------------------------------------------
Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
By: chy_farm Date: September 27, 2017, 7:42 am
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Good evening Roger, I have one more question on mag welding,
thanks!
Posting here is a McCulloch 740 for which I made a tuned pipe
previously,;
[attachimg=1]
but this saw came to me with some cracks and missing parts,
e.g. it's upper shroud has a couple of cracks so gave it some
stitch with copper wire before I got this TIG welder, (nearly
threes years ago).
[attachimg=2]
I did another try on this yesterday with mag welding, and got
some more questions about the way to rebuild new walls on mag
surface.
[attachimg=4]
Unexpected trouble to me in this job was happened to the several
holes I made for the stitch which may be seen in the above pic.
Usually as far steel sheet, I place the mother material
horizontally when I try to close little holes. So did the same
way but in this case the melted mag alloy did not stay around
the edges of the holes and fell off from the holes no matter I
minimized the arc current as small as 15A.
So instead of placing the holes horizontally, I tried vertically
as shown in a drawing below, and was able to do it.
[attachimg=3]
Do you rebuild mag walls to up-ward vertically? or place the
material horizontally and rebuild the walls in flat
horizontally?
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