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#Post#: 1192--------------------------------------------------
Oil Thread
By: Guillermo Date: August 10, 2015, 10:07 pm
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once again - pure opinion... no spamming, dissing, etc. This is
just curiousity. Why and how....
A) Bike make, model and year
B) Oil brand, weight
C) Recommend? Results?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
#Post#: 1193--------------------------------------------------
Oil Thread
By: Guillermo Date: August 10, 2015, 10:11 pm
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A) Suzuki DR650SE 2006
B) Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W-40
C) Yes - JASO, MA certified
cheap 5l for $30
Results - seems to be fine, I ran the dino version T6 seems to
shift better with the synthetic
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#Post#: 1194--------------------------------------------------
Re: Oil Thread
By: portabill Date: August 11, 2015, 2:19 pm
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A) Suzuki DL650 2006
B) Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W-40
C) Yes, thoroughly proven in VStroms. Mine almost has 50k
miles, 25k are mine
#Post#: 1209--------------------------------------------------
Re: Oil Thread
By: klrkid Date: August 31, 2015, 10:15 pm
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good to know that T6 is MA certified... i could fill multiple
pages with oil information ... have tried multiple brands over
the years... also know a tribologist and have spent hours asking
questions.... even tested a few products in his lab....he had
the patent on vegetable oil... all oils are a function of the
base and chemistry... petroleum has the lowest film strength,
Hydrocracked GRP3 is next up and is a little better and is the
majority base in most of the mid priced synthetics... even
though it is not a true synthetic...PAO'S are the next highest
and have twice the film strength of petroleum... esters and
polyol esters have the highest film strength and are also common
additives to increase performance.. even at 2% help film
strength and lubricity quite a bit....each of those base oils
have weaknesses too... PAO'S harden seals and rubber parts,
esters soften them, petroleum has to have an additive to keep
them soft....esters are not good with fuel dilution and
moisture....many products out there are a combination of 3 or 4
of these main bases.... bottom line, try them ... change it
often.... however, the more highly stressed motors do better on
synthetics... Redline has the most film strength and temp
resistance and lubricity.... price is not always the
representation of performance... try whatever brand and see how
it does...
#Post#: 1211--------------------------------------------------
Re: Oil Thread
By: bholmes Date: September 2, 2015, 7:55 pm
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I have always heard/read that synthetics are bad for wet
clutches because they have friction modifiers that will
accumulate on the clutch and cause it to slip
prematurely....anyone know or hear anything about that? I only
run rotela in my machines as i read an oil analysis once that
showed it and other diesel oils to be superior. Biggest point
is what klrkid says though, change it often and keep it clean!
#Post#: 1222--------------------------------------------------
Re: Oil Thread
By: klrkid Date: September 18, 2015, 7:05 pm
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Mr Holmes, as far as I know, all oils have friction modifiers to
an extent...the ester based products are usually a little
slicker inherently... as I suggested previously. Too high
Molybdenum content will make clutches slip... the Honda oil that
supposedly have no moly has [ I forget] 300 ppm moly.. I have
used Redline racing oil 50 wt in my rancher 5 speed.. it has
some ridiculous amount of moly [1500 ppm or more] and did not
experience clutch slippage AT ALL. So I think the whole thing is
over blown...by the way motorcycle oils have low moly and higher
ZDDP levels to improve shear resistance for the gears...I ran
into a guy at Summit racing the other day with a little Harley
shop... does oil changes for a bunch of his buddies.. and simple
maintenance stuff.. he uses Mobil 1 15w50 MC oil in his own
engine with Redline in the clutch side and shockproof on the
gearbox side...took it apart the other day and it was like brand
new inside...105,000 miles....he has seen many a Harley using
Harley petroleum and the motors are scrap at 50k...he said you
can bet they use synthetic now...if they did use petroleum, they
changed it VERY OFTEN to make it last... most of the guys I know
run 5000mi.on Redline...bottom line is mileage is relative to
maintenance!!!!
#Post#: 1232--------------------------------------------------
Re: Oil Thread
By: klr4evr Date: October 8, 2015, 6:14 pm
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A) 2004 Kawasaki KLR 650
B) Shell Rotella T 15W-40 (non-synthetic)
C) I've been using this oil since I bought the bike. No
complaints and it runs like a top. Average 5000 km. on an oil
change.
#Post#: 1233--------------------------------------------------
Re: Oil Thread
By: klrkid Date: October 8, 2015, 7:49 pm
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Hi Klr4evr... I have heard lots of good things about
Rotella...it is hard to find motorcycle oil and this stuff is
very reasonably priced .. used a qt of the part syn [ maybe 15%
or so PAO'S] in my daughters CRV... it quieted down the valves a
little...I know tons of hard core diesel guys who use it...the
more souped up their motor, the more they change it...I use
Redline for the following reasons... most film strength and
lubricity and heat resistance of ANYTHING PERIOD. it does have a
weakness.. moisture and fuel dilution...if your motor is not
real tight... it will burn faster with POE'S. petroleum migrates
away from hot spots.. ester molecules are attracted to hot
spots. which is why most of the big name racers use Redline or a
brand with an ester or polyol ester base. POE base oil have
found their way into a lot of other oils and a percent or 2
increases performance quite a bit... I guess the bottom line in
all this is most name brand synthetics have a little more film
strength than petroleum... which only translates into moderately
reduced wear rates...the ultimate goal. it just costs more to
achieve marginal wear rate improvements...and very slight
performance increase...change it often and ride!
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