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#Post#: 35851--------------------------------------------------
Re: Bargain 1/2 hp G. Sipp .... the good, the bad & the ugly
By: Stoker Date: February 17, 2021, 3:38 pm
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If it was just smeared on the valve linkage rod as shown in that
prior photo, it would have been no problemo! However .... that
stuff was fully packed in under the packing gland compression
cap nut, and all along inside of the rod guide tunnel, so there
was in fact a substantial amount of the gunk to be dug out from
inner recesses.
It was pure joy to be sure!!!
Do note in that same photo, there are only just barely a full 5
threads on the end of that rod, and they are pretty chewed up,
which doesn't make for a very firm grip or solid alignment, nor
does it allow for much adjustment. The clevis head that screws
on there only had four threads in it, so couldn't even go on
that far, even though it had an I.D. depth capable of taking a
full 10+ threads with a bottom tap. So I did go ahead and tap it
to full depth, and took a die to the rod and gave it a full 14+
threads so that I could also mount a jam nut to lock off the
clevis position!
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
Yes ... that hole is not very well centered either, but at
least there is plenty of "meat" around it!
#Post#: 35852--------------------------------------------------
Re: Bargain 1/2 hp G. Sipp .... the good, the bad & the ugly
By: classixs Date: February 17, 2021, 3:52 pm
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Thanks for sharing the good and bad details here Daniel, and
well done on getting that clevis head properly fixed to the rod.
Do you intend to eventually fix the misaligned holes as well?
#Post#: 35855--------------------------------------------------
Re: Bargain 1/2 hp G. Sipp .... the good, the bad & the ugly
By: Stoker Date: February 17, 2021, 4:13 pm
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[quote author=classixs link=topic=3787.msg35852#msg35852
date=1613598757]
Thanks for sharing the good and bad details here Daniel, and
well done on getting that clevis head properly fixed to the rod.
Do you intend to eventually fix the misaligned holes as well?
[/quote]
Probably not Jan ... at least not at this point. There is so
much that could be done, but for now I'll just concentrate on
what must be done to get this big boy up and running at some
reasonable level. Perhaps then I can go back through it and fix
some of the more egregious issues that don't necessarily impact
its ability to function.
I originally suggested, back before I made the drive to get it,
that what I was buying was just a "pig in a poke", and that is
exactly what it turns out that I got. I'm actually far ahead of
what my postings here show, so I know full well at this point
what the big picture is, and it isn't any too pretty. Still, I
have faith that it can yet be turned into a decent runner as
most of the key machining was likely done by the factory, so it
is just the ancillary work that has problems .... for the most
part anyway.
In the end, this engine should prove fully capable of all that I
will ever ask of it, which won't be much, as I don't have much
in the way of providing it with the steam, or even air power,
that it truly needs to work properly. I do believe, now that I
really know what I have, that I will be happy with this engine,
even with all of its obvious problems and poor machining, if for
no other reason than I would never likely have parted with the
money that an truly good 1/2 hp Sipp should properly bring!
Hey ... if nothing else .... it has a nice paint job!?!?
#Post#: 35863--------------------------------------------------
Re: Bargain 1/2 hp G. Sipp .... the good, the bad & the ugly
By: Jim Date: February 17, 2021, 5:08 pm
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Thanks for the pics and the update Daniel.
#Post#: 36117--------------------------------------------------
Re: Bargain 1/2 hp G. Sipp .... the good, the bad & the ugly
By: Stoker Date: February 20, 2021, 8:52 pm
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All righty then kids .... back to this ongoing mechanical
adventure, and sorry for the extended delay. Likely to be more
of the same before this tale of woe is complete, but no hurry
anyway as it isn't going anywhere under its own power anytime
soon!
So last post I was inside the steam chest, and while I found the
D-valve and port face to be fairly flat, albeit with somewhat
rounded edges and corners, and not entirely smooth, I decided
that I'd do a bit of lapping and also try to clean up and square
the ports themselves which were a bit out of square with some
wildly irregular edges. Turns out that took a fair amount of
time as the casting inside the port channels was pretty rough,
and even though I didn't do a true clean-up of all of that, I do
believe the steam flow will now be somewhat enhanced and the
cut-off should be a bit crisper as well, however I was unable to
truly "square" the port edges, and they actually seem to slant
slightly to the motion of the valve. Perhaps they are supposed
to as a means of phasing the open and closing of the port?
Probably not, and it is just another weird artifact of a poor
build, though this one does seem to be cast in and nearly
irremediable. Should run better now in any event!
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
There is also a noticeable casting flaw in both the D-valve and
port face surfaces that would take really serious lapping, or
even milling to get past, as would the rounded edges and corners
on both faces. For now I'll not go that far,and likely never
will, but it could be an option if it turns out to be necessary.
I should add that the other end of the valve linkage seems
pretty okay just the way it is. The eccentric seems reasonably
well made and fitted with shims that will allow for adjustment
with wear. Although the linkage rod is "S" bent, and it likely
wouldn't have to be if the eccentric cam had been put on the
other way around, there really isn't any problem with it done
this way, and I have now seen photos of at least a few others
done this way as well.
#Post#: 36122--------------------------------------------------
Re: Bargain 1/2 hp G. Sipp .... the good, the bad & the ugly
By: Jim Date: February 20, 2021, 10:00 pm
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Thanks for the pictorial update Daniel.
#Post#: 36127--------------------------------------------------
Re: Bargain 1/2 hp G. Sipp .... the good, the bad & the ugly
By: St Paul Steam Date: February 20, 2021, 10:13 pm
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Yes , thanks for the update , following along closely here .
#Post#: 36159--------------------------------------------------
Re: Bargain 1/2 hp G. Sipp .... the good, the bad & the ugly
By: tenniV11 Date: February 21, 2021, 12:12 pm
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Thanks for the story - the tuning will be closely overviewed
perfect the lapping...
Arnold ;D
#Post#: 36183--------------------------------------------------
Re: Bargain 1/2 hp G. Sipp .... the good, the bad & the ugly
By: classixs Date: February 21, 2021, 4:20 pm
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[quote author=St Paul Steam link=topic=3787.msg36127#msg36127
date=1613880835]
Yes , thanks for the update , following along closely here .
[/quote]
Ditto :)
#Post#: 36215--------------------------------------------------
Re: Bargain 1/2 hp G. Sipp .... the good, the bad & the ugly
By: Stoker Date: February 21, 2021, 6:34 pm
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Let's call it a day on the valve linkage / steam chest side of
this beast, and head back up to the flywheel / crankshaft
assembly. With the valve linkage fully disconnected, the
noticeable bind in flywheel rotation was still present. So my
next move was to disconnect the crank rod from the crank and see
how that might be affecting rotation.
Sure enough, rotation smoothed out almost completely with only a
slight and fairly even resistance felt through 360 degrees of
rotation. Whew!
With just a very slight loosening of the cap screws holding the
bearing clamps in place, the flywheel spun easily through
several rotations coming to a slow and even stop that bodes well
for the shaft and bearings I think. With the bearing clamps in
this ever so slightly loosened condition I tried to wiggle the
crankshaft and felt no noticeable movement. This seems real good
... perhaps too good to be true?
Along the way, I thought I'd take the time to check for any bend
in the crankshaft, with the shaft still cradled in its bearings.
So I got out an indicator set-up and with the tip set as close
to the hub of the flywheel as I could manage, took a set of
rotational readings that gave me less than .002" runout, and
some of that could easily be due to old varnished oil, though
probably not.
[attachimg=1]
In any event, it is now apparent that the drag/bind issue was
going to be found in the piston/cylinder/crosshead-slide/
linkage system, and not with the crankshaft or bearings .....
again, WHEW!!!
I should add that perhaps surprisingly, the connecting rod's
holes at both ends seem fairly well centered, though not
perfectly, and both the crosshead-slide and crank arm holes
while not too well centered, are both adequately so, as to have
plenty of "meat" around them, and should offer no problems. The
crank end of the connecting rod has a set of brass bearing
inserts that will need some adjustment as there is a little slop
on the crank arm bolt (crank pin), and the adjusting screw for
that bearing set cannot further tighten, so the edges where the
two bearing halves meet will need to be filed back ever so
slightly to allow further adjustment range.
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
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