[HN Gopher] Passive radiative cooling below ambient airtemperatu...
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       Passive radiative cooling below ambient airtemperature under direct
       sun (2014) [pdf]
        
       Author : _Microft
       Score  : 127 points
       Date   : 2021-07-09 10:52 UTC (12 hours ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (web.stanford.edu)
 (TXT) w3m dump (web.stanford.edu)
        
       | huachimingo wrote:
       | Video from QuantumFracture explaining it:
       | https://youtu.be/wzPdcqrDKzw (You can use subs)
        
       | infogulch wrote:
       | I think I remember seeing a paper where they designed a
       | metamaterial with vertical microstructures that passively lased
       | input heat as narrow band IR within the frequency range that is
       | transparent to the atmosphere. But I can't find it now, perhaps
       | I'm mistaken.
        
       | villgax wrote:
       | This is as insane as the blackbird land yacht which is a vehicle
       | to go directly downwind faster than the wind!
        
         | nayuki wrote:
         | See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyQwgBAaBag ;
         | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCsgoLc_fzI ;
         | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUgajGv4Aok
        
         | pengaru wrote:
         | There's nothing insane about the blackbird land yacht, except
         | that so many people seem to think it's insane.
        
       | speed_spread wrote:
       | Seems like similar tech is now available in paint form?
       | https://www.purdue.edu/newsroom/releases/2021/Q2/the-whitest...
        
       | coolradmab wrote:
       | I've been actively working on this technology, goal is making it
       | cheaper and simplify installation. Stanford's a highly reflective
       | surface ~95% combined with stacks layers of silica oxide on a
       | wafer under vacume. The trick too achieving bellow ambient
       | temperature is too reflect nearly all solar energy while emitting
       | strongly in the "atmospheric window". Most silica compounds are
       | well suited as emitters, however the hard part is adding a
       | reflector too the silica and minimising heat transfer from the
       | environment. I've managed to make a meta material paint,
       | reflector and emmiter that achieved bellow ambient temperature,
       | with bulky conventional insulation. as for any effective cooling
       | bellow ambient.
       | 
       | Radiative cooling is just not that strong of heat transfer, what
       | you want too look our for is the research into reflective
       | coatings needrthese systems too function. Review paper:
       | https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S030626191...
       | Shameless plug: https://www.scihouse.space
        
         | hatsunearu wrote:
         | wouldn't large scale usage of a device like this essentially
         | increase the planetary albedo and help fight climate change?
         | especially if you just skip the "environmental heat transfer"
         | part
        
           | coolradmab wrote:
           | Short answer not really https://what-if.xkcd.com/84/
        
             | Tade0 wrote:
             | This makes me think: Earth's energy imbalance is around
             | 0.5W/m2, while such a paint sends how much, 40W/m2 through
             | the transparency window?
             | 
             | So we'd only have to paint 1/80 of the Earth. That's
             | ~6.4mln km2, or 2/3 the area of the USA. Still a lot, but
             | not impossible.
             | 
             | I'm sure paint manufacturing scales better than li-ion
             | batteries, and those more than doubled in production volume
             | over the last decade.
        
               | david-gpu wrote:
               | Interesting, but even if we solved the temperature
               | problem, we would still have the issue of the
               | acidification of the oceans due to excess CO2. In the end
               | we must remove CO2 from the atmosphere one way or
               | another.
        
             | wolfram74 wrote:
             | That's more a "we haven't made enough paint to cover a
             | large fraction of the planet" argument than a "what would
             | the thermal ramifications of such an act be" argument.
             | Which I was excited to read about, but alas.
        
               | jschwartzi wrote:
               | You would need a really big roller with a lot of knap
               | too. Although I suppose you could paint most of the
               | midwest and avoid the mountains with a flatter roller.
        
               | samatman wrote:
               | For an interesting toy model related to this, check out
               | Lovelock's Daisyworld simulation:
               | 
               | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daisyworld
               | 
               | The argument (and the related Gaia hypothesis) has some
               | important and subtle connections to the facts of climate
               | change. Though even if it's correct, and the biosphere
               | will tend to naturally reassert homeostasis, there's no
               | guarantee we'll enjoy living through it.
        
           | alex_h wrote:
           | There's some numbers here for what it would take.
           | 
           | https://www.cell.com/joule/pdf/S2542-4351(19)30354-X.pdf
           | 
           | Basically we need 1W/m^2 of cooling for the earth, so if you
           | could get a radiative cooling device with 100W/m^2 you'd need
           | to cover about 1% of Earth's area
        
         | 99_00 wrote:
         | I'm really ignorant about this whole field.
         | 
         | Your work on passive radiative cooling doesn't sound like
         | biotech or related to biotech but your link
         | https://www.scihouse.space is a biotech lab.
         | 
         | I was just wondering the kind of education/knowledge someone
         | who is working on the cooling technology would have, and was
         | surprised to see a biotech background. So am wondering on the
         | journey to get from biotech to whatever is needed for the
         | cooling tech.
        
         | cdata wrote:
         | I'm eager to experiment with a material like this for the
         | application of passive water harvesting in a high humidity
         | environment.
         | 
         | Would you be able to recommend some materials that are perhaps
         | sub-optimal for the task but trivial to assemble from commodity
         | sources to produce this effect?
        
           | coolradmab wrote:
           | Silica better yet a net http://nnf.mit.edu/sites/default/file
           | s/publications/files/GH...
        
       | leoedin wrote:
       | To compare to an air conditioner. This device has about 40W of
       | cooling per m2.
       | 
       | Apparently in Australia you should size between 80 and 120 W/m2
       | of air conditioning (I think this is cooling watts rather than
       | power usage watts) -
       | https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.crownpower.com.au/blog/choo...
       | 
       | So that means every square meter of living space needs 2 square
       | meters of radiative cooling (assuming no other passive cooling
       | infrastructure). I suspect you'd see further inefficiencies
       | getting the heat to the passive cooler.
       | 
       | So it's within the same order of magnitude of an ac, but not
       | powerful enough that it would be straightforward to retrofit.
        
         | hatsunearu wrote:
         | Keep in mind there is nothing preventing you from just angling
         | the device (in its extreme, vertically) and just get an
         | arbitrary amount of radiative surface with a given flat
         | footprint.
         | 
         | (other than of course, it looking unsightly and construction
         | costs)
         | 
         | edit: it would probably help a lot of you angle it such that it
         | is normal to the sun rays, like where i live the sun sweeps
         | from the east to the west, so if you angle the device north or
         | south it would probably work even better.
        
         | jryb wrote:
         | That's true, but I don't see why the two couldn't be used in
         | tandem, thus reducing AC power consumption substantially.
        
         | kumarvvr wrote:
         | A typical AC cycles its power input. Its not constantly On. One
         | benifit of using this system could be to continuously remove
         | heat from the house and then use an AC on top of it.
         | 
         | There is always a consumption value to free beer.
        
           | sandworm101 wrote:
           | >> A typical AC cycles its power input.
           | 
           | If it has reached the requested temperature. Like basically
           | all consumer thermostats, it is a bang-bang controller. There
           | is no set on-off cycle. If the AC unit is running at
           | capacity, ie it is properly sized for requirements, it will
           | just be on all the time.
        
             | PaulHoule wrote:
             | But the temperature goes up and down all the time so there
             | is no "fixed requirement".
             | 
             | If the AC is on all the time it is most likely undersized
             | for the requirement at that time and can't maintain the
             | desired temperature.
        
               | silon42 wrote:
               | Check out interter ACs. Good ones should scale from
               | 20-100% in power or better, so should be able to stay on
               | for most of the time.
        
               | tempestn wrote:
               | Yeah, most central heat pumps installed now are inverter
               | models (also referred to as variable speed). More
               | efficient and more comfortable since you've got a
               | continuous flow of cool air, rather than blasts of cold
               | interspersed with nothing.
        
               | sandworm101 wrote:
               | In a better-than-consumer setup you will have multiple
               | chillers. Most will just stay on, with one going on-off
               | to handle the variable bit of the load. Starting and
               | stopping electric motors is less efficient tha just
               | keeping them running as much as possible.
        
         | PaulHoule wrote:
         | The weakness it has it that it needs a clear sky to work. For
         | overcast muggy days or even a high coverage of cumulus clouds,
         | performance will be absent or degraded.
         | 
         | It works at night, however, and for best results you could
         | maximize insulation and "thermal mass" inside the building and
         | minimize radiative transport through the windows.
         | 
         | The best thing about air conditioning, however, is de-
         | humidification and that is a matter of cooling the air more
         | than you have to and then re-heating it. I live in an 1850
         | farmhouse and the reason I want a ground source heat pump is
         | that the humidity destroys books and other printed matter. I
         | have inkjet prints curling off the walls and detailed logs of
         | how 3M's best products only work 90% of the time in my
         | applications.
        
           | eloff wrote:
           | Adhesives are not built for high-humidity environments. My
           | parents live in the tropical rainforest of Panama. One of the
           | challenges is that anything stuck together with adhesive
           | usually comes apart over time. The glass panel on the door of
           | my mom's oven fell off.
        
             | PaulHoule wrote:
             | As an engineer I don't accept that things have to suck.
             | 
             | If other people think failure is OK I can't do anything
             | about it, but if I have the problem that "Adhesive X does
             | not work in Environment Y" I am going to change the
             | adhesive, change the environment, or not use an adhesive.
        
           | etskinner wrote:
           | I'm having trouble understanding why a clear sky is
           | important. Surfaces radiate based on their temperature and
           | emissivity only, right? So why would it matter what the
           | surface is emitting toward?
           | 
           | Perhaps what I'm missing is that clouds emit some radiative
           | heat back to the surface, whereas a clear sky emits very
           | little, so the net heat loss from the surface under a cloudy
           | sky would be lower.
        
             | coolradmab wrote:
             | Water vapour re absolves the IR akin too blowing on your
             | sails however it's affect is reduced when it's cloudy can
             | still function just not as well
        
             | Sanzig wrote:
             | > Perhaps what I'm missing is that clouds emit some
             | radiative heat back to the surface, whereas a clear sky
             | emits very little, so the net heat loss from the surface
             | under a cloudy sky would be lower.
             | 
             | This is exactly it, yes.
        
         | the8472 wrote:
         | The technology has advanced since then, now white paints with
         | high emissivity in the infrared window are being researched. So
         | if you cover the entire building with that you would get some
         | free, always-on cooling that way.
        
           | PaulHoule wrote:
           | Opening the windows at night and running fans to equalize the
           | temperature, then putting space blankets over the windows for
           | the day works wonders on hot days in upstate NY.
        
             | oezi wrote:
             | One question that I always wonder when hot days strike:
             | 
             | Given that I only have one portable fan, what is the best
             | setup at night if it is colder outside than inside:
             | 
             | 1. Open the windows and put fan so that it blows air out of
             | one window
             | 
             | 2. Open the windows and have fan mix the air inside the
             | room
             | 
             | 3. Open the windows and put fan on balcony to blow air from
             | outside in.
        
               | tempestn wrote:
               | 4. Buy additional fan for ~$15.
               | 
               | Seriously though, it depends. If you have no other way to
               | intake or exhaust air, probably 3, since fans are more
               | effective at blowing than sucking. (IE: 1. would spend
               | some of its power recirculating inside and outside air
               | rather than just pulling inside air out.)
               | 
               | Most likely your bathroom and hopefully stove have
               | exhaust fans, so even better would be to turn one or both
               | of those on, and have the fan blow in a window on the
               | opposite side of the house. It may not even be ideal to
               | open _all_ the windows. You want cool air flowing through
               | the whole house. In an extreme example, if you have the
               | fan blowing in the balcony and an open window right
               | beside the balcony, it could just circulate air there,
               | rather than reaching the rest. Likewise with exhaust, if
               | you have a fan in the bathroom and the bathroom window
               | open. So you 'd need to experiment a bit to see what
               | flows air best through the house.
               | 
               | Things also change if you have a central blower.
        
               | spearo77 wrote:
               | Matthias tries a few options and evaluates them-
               | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1L2ef1CP-yw
               | 
               | > Experiments and anemometer measurements to figure out
               | where to best place a fan to optimally air out the house
               | to cool it down at night.
        
               | occamrazor wrote:
               | Open two windows. Only if needed, put the fan somewhere
               | in between the two windows to facilitate airflow.
        
               | clipradiowallet wrote:
               | Another suggestion from your 3 - use an exhaust fan on
               | one end of your home, blowing air from your ceiling out a
               | window(you want to blow the air near the ceiling, it is
               | warmest). Use an intake fan at the lowest elevation
               | possible.
               | 
               | The premise is...cooler air falls, warmer air rises. You
               | want to blow in the low(cool) elevation air, and exhaust
               | the high(warm) air.
        
               | cowvin wrote:
               | I wonder the same thing. If you get a chance, try to test
               | the various configurations!
               | 
               | I would suspect you will also see different results
               | depending if you have multiple windows or just 1. For
               | example, if you have more than 1 window and can seal the
               | opening except the fan, then the fan will move x amount
               | of air in or out and will have similar results.
               | 
               | Simply mixing the air inside the room seems like it's
               | probably the least effective because it will result in
               | very little heat exchange at the windows themselves.
               | However, making the temperature within your house more
               | even may make it more comfortable on the average inside
               | your house.
        
             | dsr_ wrote:
             | It's very good as long as two conditions apply:
             | 
             | - the humidity has to be comfortably low
             | 
             | - the outside temperature has to be low enough
             | 
             | Historically, this is _usually_ the case.
             | 
             | In the last few weeks, I've had one or both of those fail
             | to apply on the majority of nights. Dropping to 65F doesn't
             | help when the outside air is also at 99% humidity. If the
             | overnight low is 75F, we're not getting much cooling out of
             | it.
        
               | PaulHoule wrote:
               | Any system has to deal with time-variable conditions.
               | 
               | I dream of getting a geothermal heat pump for my 1850s
               | farm house which is normally heated with two wood stoves
               | but has a propane backup. (e.g. the kind of compact
               | heater that you see all the time in people's apartments
               | in anime)
               | 
               | At points south the capacity of that kind of system is
               | set by cooling demand but where I live it is set by
               | heating demand. The woodstove could pick up the slack on
               | the coldest days, but that defeats the main selling point
               | of the heat pump which is extreme comfort (e.g. it
               | switches seamlessly from heating to cooling)
        
               | hinkley wrote:
               | - the outside air quality has to be okay
               | 
               | Between pollen count and pollution this is not always the
               | case, and keeping the windows closed and running both the
               | AC and an air filter unfortunately has health benefits
               | for some individuals.
        
         | mannykannot wrote:
         | I am trying to figure out whether one should take into account
         | the cooling power of the surfaces being replaced. The figure of
         | 80-120 W/m2 for air conditioning is presumably based on
         | conventional building materials, which have negative cooling
         | power.
         | 
         | In the paper, the figure of 40 W/m2 seems to be the net cooling
         | power, which is defined in equation 1 as being the power
         | radiated away minus various inflows of heat: radiatively, from
         | the atmosphere; radiatively, from the sun; and by conduction
         | and convection. As far as I can see, these corrections are all
         | for this particular surface, not the surface it might be
         | replacing. These will not, in general, be the same, and, given
         | that this new surface is both highly reflective and vacuum-
         | insulated, I would guess that its values for these properties
         | are lower than the conventional building materials on which the
         | a/c rule-of-thumb is based.
         | 
         | Nevertheless, I doubt that replacing the entire roof with this
         | material would be sufficient cooling, on its own, in the
         | Australian case, and I agree that this would not likely be a
         | straightforward retrofit, to say the least!
        
           | parineum wrote:
           | This was my thought as well. I have an attic fan and monitor
           | the temperature inside to control it. It regularly gets 120+
           | F in there on an 80 F day. I have to think the majority of
           | the heating of my house is coming from the attic.
        
         | fy20 wrote:
         | Might as well just get solar PV then, that's around 150W per
         | m2.
        
           | hatsunearu wrote:
           | 150W electricity, so you need to run a refrigerator cycle to
           | pump that heat out of your house, which comes at a massive
           | efficiency penalty.
        
         | varjag wrote:
         | There's a lot of potential applications outside of habitat AC
         | in Australia.
         | 
         | For example cooling down stand-alone hardware in the field.
        
       | debacle wrote:
       | Are there any resources that catalog historical methods of
       | passive cooling? Many of these methods are space efficient but
       | not cost efficient, and many areas of the developing world (where
       | these issues have the greatest impact) have all the space in the
       | world and very limited access to funds.
        
         | danans wrote:
         | Historical passive cooling methods usually involve using shade
         | and high thermal mass like a stone floor - basically simulating
         | a cave.
         | 
         | More sophisticated historical methods include wind catchers
         | used in Persia.
         | 
         | But historically stone houses weren't cheap - poor people lived
         | in straw huts, and most people probably just put up with the
         | heat the best they could cope.
        
         | _Microft wrote:
         | I found the question interesting and found a few Wikipedia
         | articles that might help:
         | 
         | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_cooling
         | 
         | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Badgir
         | 
         | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yakhch%C4%81l
        
       | MauranKilom wrote:
       | Very cool concept! Has any product come out of this in the 7
       | years since it was published?
        
         | _Microft wrote:
         | I know of no products but the area of research seems to be
         | active and the article I linked to is getting cited frequently:
         | 
         | https://scholar.google.de/scholar?as_ylo=2021&hl=de&as_sdt=2...
        
         | Mengkudulangsat wrote:
         | Aaswath Raman's company [1] https://www.skycoolsystems.com
        
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