[HN Gopher] I fixed my broken monitor with a hair dryer
       ___________________________________________________________________
        
       I fixed my broken monitor with a hair dryer
        
       Author : nor0x
       Score  : 253 points
       Date   : 2022-05-13 08:07 UTC (14 hours ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (johnnys.news)
 (TXT) w3m dump (johnnys.news)
        
       | prawn wrote:
       | When visiting China as a teenager in the early 90s, my brother
       | and I decided to invest our hard-saved cash in a Micro Genius.
       | This was a rip-off of a Super Famicom which I'd seen a Malaysian
       | school friend play back home in Australia.
       | 
       | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Micro_Genius
       | 
       | There's a photo of us smiling at the counter of a department
       | store, handing over money. We bought a couple of multi-game
       | cartridges. 190-in-1 and 27-in-1 or something.
       | 
       | We tested it in a Hong Kong hotel room, and briefly played a few
       | games. Then imagine our dismay when we eventually got back to
       | Australia and the thing wouldn't reliably load a game. We were
       | blowing on cartridges and all that.
       | 
       | One day, we gave it a shot up in our non-A/C, second-storey
       | bedroom. It was a 40 deg C day, so absolutely cooking upstairs.
       | The console worked! The games loaded! We got to play an assorted
       | of games we'd been eagerly waiting on.
       | 
       | We eventually decided it must be the heat and on the next day I
       | can remember us taking it in turns with a hairdryer trying to
       | warm the console or cartridge to get a game to start while the
       | other person played. It might let us play for several minutes and
       | then fail. Unfortunately, this trick didn't last for long and
       | then the console was surpassed and the games no longer kept our
       | interest.
       | 
       | 30 years later, I still have the useless boxed console in my
       | garage and can't bear to throw it out.
        
         | rocky1138 wrote:
         | This is a really cute story. It might be really nice to fix it
         | up and play it with your brother at Christmas (or other similar
         | holiday) as a bonding fun time.
        
         | pvillano wrote:
         | replace the electrolytic capacitors and it'll work like new
        
           | prawn wrote:
           | Problem is, even as new, it's still the worst of about a
           | dozen consoles or devices in the house capable of letting my
           | kids play video games. They play PS4 or the 360, and
           | occasionally an original Xbox for a particular party game.
           | There are older consoles than those that get completely
           | ignored but would be superior to the Micro Genius!
           | 
           | But you reminded me that we did take it to an electronics
           | store for a quote to try and fix it, and I think the quote
           | was more than we paid for it. Also a bit pointless with the
           | pace new consoles were being released!
        
       | causality0 wrote:
       | Hair dryers can be quite useful. If you have a small engine that
       | won't start like a lawnmower, heating it with a hair dryer will
       | often allow it to crank.
        
       | hammock wrote:
       | There used to be a thing where you bake motherboards in the oven
       | to fix them
        
       | mmastrac wrote:
       | I fixed a 2008 macbook with a GPU issue (wouldn't boot past BIOS)
       | by turning it on and letting it run full-tilt under a blanket.
       | Eventually it just resoldered itself.
        
         | rasz wrote:
         | It didnt. 8600M had a design defect in microbumps connecting
         | die to package. Thermal cycling in high heat scenarios (Apple
         | is famous fo cooking components at the margin of T-junction)
         | softened improperly selected underfill and broke microbumps
         | connecting die to package. Repeated heating up can again soften
         | it to release stresses and temporarily reconnected broken
         | traces. It never fixes the main issue of broken chip.
         | 
         | https://en-academic.com/dic.nsf/enwiki/2011837#Problems
         | 
         | https://semiaccurate.com/2009/08/21/nvidia-finally-understan...
         | 
         | >On July 2, 2009, the date being ironically a year after the
         | notorious 8-K that publicly kicked off bumpgate, the company
         | put up a job listing for a "DIRECTOR OF PACKAGE TECHNOLOGY".
         | 
         | https://notebooks.com/2008/10/10/apple-to-replace-faulty-nvi...
        
           | mmastrac wrote:
           | Interesting. It "fixed it" for about ~5-6 years of occasional
           | use going forward, at least. Perhaps it was a different
           | component than the GPU.
        
       | r0m4n0 wrote:
       | Kinda reminded me of the time I used listerine on my MacBook
       | screen and it solved the gross reflective coating issue that
       | apple wouldn't fix for me. Crazy part is it worked
       | 
       | Context:
       | https://www.reddit.com/r/mildlyinteresting/comments/gho3s4/m...
        
       | jwilk wrote:
       | Archived copy that can be read without JS enabled:
       | 
       | https://archive.today/eAmar
        
       | xcambar wrote:
       | Is it okay if what I liked the most in your article is your table
       | full or stickers?
        
       | 1970-01-01 wrote:
       | A shout-out to badcaps.net is warranted here. They have been a
       | hidden gem for 2 decades.
       | 
       | https://badcaps.net/forum/showpost.php?p=1002389&postcount=7
        
       | emkoemko wrote:
       | i wonder if this would help my issue, my 165hz monitor is not
       | usable anymore at 165hz it flickers, has weird grainy image and
       | what looks like scan lines. Had to use it at 144hz for a while as
       | it didn't happen there but after some time i had to go to 120hz
       | and now 120hz is starting to degrade also : (
        
       | richardfey wrote:
       | I feel like I missed out on the 3D hype and I am a bit nostalgic
       | now
        
         | devwastaken wrote:
         | Better done with VR headsets. Few games supported monitor VR,
         | and they didn't do that great of a job.
        
           | cestith wrote:
           | Active LCD shutter glasses for 3D movies were much nicer than
           | 3D gaming that way. Sadly, so little content came out for
           | those setups that the fad passed.
        
       | f311a wrote:
       | My old Benq monitor was blinking for the fist 10-20 minutes when
       | I turn it on and I used similar trick. I knew nothing about
       | electronics and used common sense. I would direct hair dryer
       | towards air vents of the monitor and wait for 30 seconds.
       | 
       | I got bored after a month repeating the same thing every day and
       | sold it unrepaired.
        
       | justusthane wrote:
       | This observation isn't directly applicable to this story in
       | particular, as this case the fix did require some in depth
       | troubleshooting knowledge of the subject.
       | 
       | That being said, I'm often struck by how often something can be
       | fixed by just opening it up and _looking_ at it, even if you know
       | next to nothing about the internals.
       | 
       | Two examples, both car-related:
       | 
       | - I used to drive an old Ford Ranger, and one day it started
       | running like crap. Horrible acceleration, engine running rough. I
       | made an appointment with a mechanic, but the day before my
       | appointment I thought "What the heck, I might as well _look_ at
       | it. " I popped the hood and immediately noticed that the air
       | filter housing was cracked in half. Patched it up with duct tape,
       | and it was good as "new".
       | 
       | - One of my wheels started making a godawful constant squealing.
       | I couldn't drive 10 yards without turning heads. I brought it
       | into the mechanic, where they took the wheel off and promptly a
       | pebble fell out of the brake calipers. Had I just jacked it up
       | and taken the wheel off myself, I would have saved a trip to the
       | mechanic.
        
       | Knufferlbert wrote:
       | Reminds me of the "myth" of putting a Radeon GPU into the oven on
       | low heat for a while if it was broken. I tried it when mine
       | stopped working and indeed it fixed it.
       | 
       | Also another Radeon card was identical as a more powerful one,
       | except that two pins (maybe wrong word) were not connected. I
       | drew the connection using a pencil directly on the board and it
       | worked as well, saving around 100 Euros.
       | 
       | It's over a decade ago, so details may be slightly wrong. But
       | still interesting how low tech solutions worked on such
       | complicated machinery.
        
         | logbiscuitswave wrote:
         | What you did was reflow the solder. This isn't an uncommon
         | technique for amateur/small batch repairs or assembly of
         | surface mount circuit boards. At the maker space I use, there's
         | a toaster oven dedicated to this task.
         | 
         | That being said, you don't want to use that oven for food
         | purposes anymore. Lots of toxic chemicals will off-gas in the
         | reflow process.
         | 
         | ETA this reminds me of the Xbox 360 "red ring of death" fiasco.
         | One DIY repair technique was to wrap the entire Xbox in towels
         | blocking all the ventilation. The theory was the resulting
         | overheating would reflow the failing BGA solder joints. I don't
         | know if this really worked or was anecdotal but it was one I
         | remember seeing a lot.
        
           | ars wrote:
           | > you don't want to use that oven for food purposes anymore.
           | Lots of toxic chemicals will off-gas in the reflow process.
           | 
           | Just run the oven at full heat for an hour and you are fine -
           | the same process that off-gassed the chemicals in the first
           | place, will also deplete them from the oven when you run it
           | later. (Keep the vent on, or ventilate the kitchen.)
        
       | enqk wrote:
       | The Apple Cube G4 power brick could also be resurrected for some
       | time using an hair dryer.
        
       | adav wrote:
       | Sandwich one of those silly cheapo USB mug warmers into the case.
       | Plug it in briefly for a little warmth just to get it going. Like
       | a choke on an old-fashioned car!
        
         | Spooky23 wrote:
         | Proceed with caution.
         | 
         | Not to be a worry wart, but a long time ago we got a batch of
         | monitors with a defective board. A capacitor overheated, melted
         | some sort of glue on an adjacent component, which in turn
         | dripped on a power supply component, shorted out and started a
         | fire.
         | 
         | A couple of days later, it happened again... and we ended up
         | getting all hands on deck to find those monitors.
        
           | jonsen wrote:
           | That would probably be electrolyte leaking. There are several
           | reports/stories about bad quality capacitors unintentionally
           | used in production.
        
         | tomxor wrote:
         | Certainly satisfies the quirkiness factor :) Extra points if
         | you can squeeze in linear actuator for an actual choke switch.
         | 
         | Also good to think of alternative fixes like this when it's
         | difficult to source replacement components.
        
       | howard941 wrote:
       | Reminds me of temporarily recovering 5.25" IDE drives by freezing
       | them overnight
        
       | abofh wrote:
       | I feel like this is that story about the factory...
       | 
       | 1$ - Blowing a hairdryer at the monitor
       | 
       | 9,999$ - Knowing where to point the hair dryer...
        
         | mdrzn wrote:
         | lol definitely.
         | 
         | I would have no idea where to start to find that fix, or even
         | where to find the schematics!
        
       | rompic wrote:
       | Had a similar issue with an old samsung synchmaster. The
       | capacitors were the problem.
       | 
       | There are a lot of similar 10 year old reports on the net. E.g.:
       | https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24494&highlig...
        
         | jarenmf wrote:
         | Bad caps was a very common problem in the old days, I remember
         | I replaced the ones on my motherboard at least twice. The
         | classical symptom was that heating the motherboard will allow
         | the PC to start.
        
           | rompic wrote:
           | Yes,"Capacitor plague" it was called. There's an interesting
           | story about espionage and incomplete stolen formula in the
           | wikipedia article:
           | https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
        
         | rompic wrote:
         | https://badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=69534 says it's most
         | likely the regulator on this screen
        
       | unwind wrote:
       | The core analysis seems to be:
       | 
       | > A common issue with these types of components is that the
       | quiescent current which ensures for the internal circuitry to
       | work properly depends on the ambient temperature. If it's too low
       | and the regular doesn't have enough supply current left the
       | output appears to be dead.
       | 
       | Which honestly makes very little sense to me, and also reads a
       | bit like a terminology tombola. A quick googling did not turn up
       | more material on the idea that voltage regulators depend on the
       | temperature like that, and it would be surprising (generally
       | electronics performs better when cooled).
       | 
       | I would expect the problem to be due to a bad solder joint, which
       | would explain why heating it helps since it might make the solder
       | flow a little bit back into making connection (although hair
       | dryer temperatures at 200degF/93degC) are too low to properly
       | reflow solder). Or it might just make components and/or solder
       | expand enough to make contact (which is kind of the same thing
       | but different).
       | 
       | All real hardware experts, please explain. :)
        
         | pie314isi wrote:
         | I agree, it makes no sense. I am a real hardware electronics
         | engineer and I don't understand his explanation. I believe the
         | LDO could fail in a temperature dependent way. I do not believe
         | the explanation.
        
           | madengr wrote:
        
         | audiometry wrote:
         | What is a "terminology tombola". All I can find is tombola is
         | some kind of lottery.
        
           | unwind wrote:
           | Yes, to me the text read as if the author put some relevant
           | words into a rotating drum and then picked them out. The
           | result is a random-seeming sentence, which is my attempt at
           | explaining how it read, to me. I was not aiming for snark,
           | apologies if that's how it came across.
        
             | zerocrates wrote:
             | "Word salad"
        
           | cestith wrote:
           | It's similar to "buzzword bingo".
        
         | Gordonjcp wrote:
         | In the olden days we used to use hair driers and cans of
         | "freezer spray" - ozone-depleting freon in a can, now replaced
         | with more eco-friendly stuff - to heat and cool components to
         | see which ones were temperature-sensitive. Quite often you'd
         | get a fault that would only show up when the set was cold, or
         | only after it was thoroughly warm.
         | 
         | I'm wondering if perhaps C206/C207/C208 in the LDO circuit that
         | decouple the output might have gone a bit leaky and warming
         | them up causes them to act more like capacitors and less like
         | resistors to ground. If they're SMD multilayer ceramics that
         | would be a pretty common failure.
        
         | _Microft wrote:
         | The part is a LDO (low-dropout regulator). You can read about
         | these here. See also the section about the quiescent current.
         | One more thing: what made you believe that the given
         | explanation is wrong?
         | 
         | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-dropout_regulator
         | 
         | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-dropout_regulator#Quiescen...
        
           | unwind wrote:
           | I really do understand what LDO means, and at least a decent
           | amount of how they work.
           | 
           | I still don't think it makes sense; it's not as if you have
           | the heat the device to be hot enough to draw the quiescent
           | current, it's the other way around. As the internal
           | temperature rises, the efficiency of the components degrade,
           | things start to "leak" more current and the quiescent current
           | draw goes up.
        
           | avianlyric wrote:
           | > quiescent current which ensures for the internal circuitry
           | to work properly depends on the ambient temperature.
           | 
           | This statement seems to get the relationship between
           | quiescent current and the operation of internal circuitry
           | backwards.
           | 
           | Quiescent current doesn't _power_ the internal circuitry.
           | Quiescent current is a _measure_ of current _consumed_ by the
           | internal circuitry while it's idle.
           | 
           | The temperature relationship exists because the circuitry
           | consumes more power when it hot. But there isn't some
           | temperature dependent magically quiescent current provider
           | that must work correctly for the rest of circuitry to
           | operate. Just like there isn't a "standby power provider"
           | inside of a TV to allow it to remain in standby. The standby
           | power is just a _measure_ of the power consumed while in
           | standby.
        
           | tgsovlerkhgsel wrote:
           | I think it makes sense when you read it carefully. What
           | tripped me up is that quiescent current is usually only seen
           | as a bad thing. It not drawing enough current also seems more
           | like a symptom than the cause.
           | 
           | On my first pass I was also a bit confused whether he is
           | talking about the regulator's internal circuitry or something
           | else: It's not obvious that LDO stands for low-dropout
           | regulator, so at first it felt like he's misusing "quiescent
           | current" to refer to some kind of "standby current"
           | (comparable to an ATX power supply +5V Standby line) that the
           | regulator has to supply to some other circuitry that then
           | powers on the regulator to supply the rest of the device.
        
         | laci37 wrote:
         | I am not an expert, just a hobbyist. It's hard to tell anything
         | without measurements. Either the regulators are half dead
         | (factory spec for operating temperature is -40 to +85 Cdeg) and
         | should be replaced, or thermal expansion causes a cracked
         | solder joint to touch again, or some other component is half
         | dead and needs a bit of warmth to work properly.
        
         | type0 wrote:
         | > Or it might just make components and/or solder expand enough
         | to make contact (which is kind of the same thing but
         | different).
         | 
         | Yeah, most probably it deformed into contact
        
         | jonsen wrote:
         | > ...a bad solder joint
         | 
         | Or inside the IC a bad bonding between the chip and the package
         | leads. Or IC package developed cracks and moisture creeps in.
        
         | ariejan wrote:
         | It's not uncommon for solder joints to get damaged due to heat
         | stress. It happens to BGA compontents too when not properly
         | cooled. The hair dryer may or may not have provided enough heat
         | to fix a small crack (I didn't look up the temperature a hair
         | dryer provides).
         | 
         | Did kind-of the same with my Philips TV a while back. Still
         | going strong.
         | 
         | https://www.devroom.io/projects/repair-philips-42pfl6057h-12...
        
           | cestith wrote:
           | "Hair dryer" is such an imprecise term in a use case like
           | this. One can find 600 watt units all the way through about
           | 2300 watts. A typical general-purpose heat gun one might use
           | to strip paint or shrink some heat-shrink plastic is usually
           | between 1500 watts and 1800 watts.
        
             | mannykannot wrote:
             | While the power consumption may vary considerably, the
             | maximum temperature is presumably constrained by what
             | humans and their hair can tolerate.
        
               | cestith wrote:
               | There is a huge difference in whether one can actually
               | reach that temperature, how quickly, and how much airflow
               | it provides across the heating element and on target. A
               | heat gun is a much more consistent tool for the uses for
               | which it's designed.
        
               | bombcar wrote:
               | A heat gun is also designed to put pretty consistent heat
               | an inch or so away from the nozzle, whereas hair dryers
               | often have what appear to be left-over jet engines for
               | fans, for when you need to dry someone's hair from ten
               | feet away.
        
               | londons_explore wrote:
               | Put a thermocouple in some hairdriers and you'll find
               | some get well over 400 Celcius (750F!).
               | 
               | They just rely on the fact air has a low thermal mass,
               | and it's easy to just keep it slightly further from your
               | skin if necessary - the air quickly cools with distance
               | as more room air mixes in.
        
         | ivanbakel wrote:
         | >A quick googling did not turn up more material on the idea
         | that voltage regulators depend on the temperature like that,
         | and it would be surprising (generally electronics performs
         | better when cooled).
         | 
         | Not a hardware expert either, but Wikipedia points at this TI
         | doc[0] which claims ambient temperature is necessary for the
         | quiescent current. There's no mechanism described there,
         | though.
         | 
         | [0]: https://www.ti.com/lit/an/slva079/slva079.pdf
        
           | formerly_proven wrote:
           | These have ground pins (as opposed to floating regulators),
           | so they draw whatever bias current they need (which mostly
           | depends on temperature, input voltage, output current and the
           | lottery). The explanation is bogus, and doesn't explain how
           | heating once would help with a problem caused by too low
           | ambient temperature during operation anyway.
        
           | jonsen wrote:
           | > ambient temperature is necessary for the quiescent current
           | 
           | No it does not say that. It says ambient temperature is a
           | factor contributing to quiescent current:
           | 
           | "The value of quiescent current is mostly determined by the
           | series pass element, topologies, ambient temperature, etc."
           | 
           | In an LDO you normally want as little as possible quiescent
           | current when idle. You certainly wouldn't design stand by
           | operation to be dependent on temperature. If it turns out to
           | be so with time, it's an aging problem.
        
       | rosshaugh wrote:
       | I used to throw the graphics card from my Dell XPS 1710 into the
       | oven whenever it stopped working. That worked about 10 times over
       | the space of a few years!
        
         | Ancapistani wrote:
         | I did this with a 2012 MBP at one point. It was basically a
         | crude attempt at reflowing the solder on the board.
         | 
         | Got it running again, and I managed another ~year out of it,
         | before my then-two-year old daughter poured a pint of milk into
         | the keyboard.
        
         | jlund-molfese wrote:
         | That's really interesting--had no idea that was a thing. Did
         | you ever worry about putting food in the same oven?
        
       | bryanrasmussen wrote:
       | This would seem to be significantly more clever than my open
       | handed slap method.
        
         | mrexroad wrote:
         | "Percussive maintenance"
        
       | femto wrote:
       | I'm guessing the real cause is an aged electrolytic capacitor.
       | The electrolyte can dry out over time causing a change in
       | capacitance. Power supplies are the most common failure in
       | electronics and electrolytic capacitors are a common reason for
       | power supply failure.
       | 
       | There are electrolytic capacitors near where he was heating, and
       | the capacitance of electrolytics can have a strong temperature
       | dependence. He probably managed to heat one of the electrolytic
       | capacitors, which happened to change its capacitance in the
       | correct direction to make the circuit work.
       | 
       | Chances are the monitor would work reliably if all the
       | electrolytic capacitors were replaced.
       | 
       | Edit:
       | 
       | I'm guessing the problem is C208. Section 10 of the LDO data
       | sheet, linked in the article, talks about how stability is
       | dependent on the output capacitor (C208). C208 has probably dried
       | out, reducing its capacitance and making the LDO unstable.
       | Heating was enough to make the circuit stable (for a while).
       | 
       | Further edit:
       | 
       | Predating my comment, "Gordonjcp" also called out C208.
        
         | whoopdedo wrote:
         | An old trick I learned from a tech who repaired CRT televisions
         | was to test components by spraying them with an aerosol. If
         | something was close to failing, the cold propellant would push
         | it over the edge and you could target individual capacitors to
         | identify which ones need replacement.
        
         | mikepurvis wrote:
         | I saved a monitor once that had a bad cap in the power supply--
         | very satisfying and straightforward fix, like a $2 part and
         | fifteen minutes of taking it apart and soldering.
        
         | userbinator wrote:
         | It's such a widespread phenomenon that there's an entire site
         | (with good repair forums) about electrolytic capacitors causing
         | failures: https://badcaps.net/
        
           | jml7c5 wrote:
           | For those unaware, the great capacitor plague of the 2000s
           | has an interesting backstory: it is believed to be the result
           | of corporate espionage gone wrong. Somewhere in the chain of
           | theft, then transfer, then use by a competitor, a
           | misappropriated formula for capacitor electrolyte was
           | altered. Faulty capacitors ended up in all sorts of
           | electronics, including the particular Abit VP6 motherboard
           | which failed and led to the creation of badcaps.net.
        
         | nneonneo wrote:
         | We had a 500W subwoofer amp just die on us one day. Since the
         | replacement was going to be several hundred dollars, I figured
         | I'd try disassembling it to see if I could find a problem.
         | 
         | Lo and behold, I saw three 1000uF caps that had leaked, one of
         | which had a clear bulge on the top. So I ordered a bunch of
         | replacements off Mouser, bought myself a soldering iron, and
         | replaced all three. Worked like a charm!
         | 
         | I'll never understand why even high-end equipment manufacturers
         | wind up using crappy knockoff capacitors in their stuff. It
         | seems like it's just a failure waiting to happen. I guess they
         | get to make good money on the support and service?
        
         | Pixelbrick wrote:
         | Replacing electrolytics that'd gone bad was my entry point to
         | electrical engineering.
        
         | anonymousiam wrote:
         | There's a good overview of the problems with certain Chinese
         | electrolytic capacitors here:
         | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
         | 
         | Also, here's a related article describing how a Chinese failure
         | at industrial espionage created a worldwide capacitor problem:
         | https://www.theguardian.com/technology/blog/2010/jun/29/dell...
        
           | logbiscuitswave wrote:
           | The capacitor plague was real. So many electronics I have
           | from that era have failed due to bad caps. They are almost
           | always cheap bottom-tier components with brand names and
           | packaging suspiciously similar to the more reputable ones.
           | (I've also read about inferior components that have been re-
           | sleeved but I've never come across these. I don't doubt they
           | exist, though.)
        
         | ChrisMarshallNY wrote:
         | _> Power supplies are the most common failure in electronics_
         | 
         | In over 35 years of troubleshooting gear and systems, my
         | experience is that 90% (no exaggeration) of problems are bad
         | cables.
         | 
         | It seems even worse, these days, with high-speed serial cables,
         | running on razor-thin margins, and often with embedded ICs.
         | 
         | That's why, when the IT geek comes to your desk, they just rip
         | out all your cables, and replace them with new ones, out of the
         | shrink-wrap. They'll toss out a hundred dollars' worth of
         | perfectly good cables, because they know the deal. They could
         | waste an hour, trying to troubleshoot a problem caused by an
         | intermittent USB C cable.
        
           | bradstewart wrote:
           | Also network cables. After spending days troubleshooting
           | weird network issues a few too many times, I just toss the
           | entire box of miscellaneous network cables in the attic every
           | year or two.
           | 
           | But capacitors are definitely the second most common issue.
        
         | pierrebai wrote:
         | I had a computer that could only be booted with a hair dryer. I
         | did not disassemble any parts, so I never got to know which
         | exact part was failing, but a good 5-10 minutes of pre-heating
         | with the dryer allowed it to boot.
        
           | qohen wrote:
           | A few years ago, my neighbor's PC wouldn't boot. Unlike
           | similar situations I'd had with my own hardware, the power-
           | supply wasn't dead -- in fact, at the back, there was a green
           | blinking light. I went online and found people suggesting
           | that, in such a case, blowing a hair-dryer at the power-
           | supply might fix things. I tried it and...sure enough, the PC
           | then booted.
           | 
           | More examples: https://www.google.com/search?q=power+supply+b
           | linking+light+...
        
         | dbrgn wrote:
         | A few years ago, I got ahold of an old Samsung Syncmaster LCD
         | that didn't work anymore. After replacing all electrolytic caps
         | for around 2-3$, it worked like new again.
        
           | v0x wrote:
           | Same here - I've had my SyncMaster 226BW for roughly 15 years
           | now and it's still a great monitor, but a few years back I
           | had to replace one of the capacitors after the screen would
           | turn "on" but had nothing on the display. Did the same thing
           | with a Dell monitor a few months back that I use as a second
           | display. I am guessing that bad caps are the single biggest
           | point of failure on monitors.
        
       | Communitivity wrote:
       | I wonder if there could be another issue. I remember we had a
       | hardware guy once where I worked who took apart a broken cable
       | modem prototype, found that one of the traces was thinly broken.
       | Traces are the lines on a printed circuit board, Vias the
       | circles. He used an emory cloth to strip the protective green
       | coating, then a small narrow heat gun to melt the trace slightly
       | and bring it together.
       | 
       | If OP had a broken trace in there, then heat might have fixed it.
       | Then again, OP's reasoning is probably better as I am not a
       | hardware guy.
        
         | sokoloff wrote:
         | Those traces under the green solder mask are copper (melting
         | point ~1000degC/2000degF).
         | 
         | He may have added solder to fix the trace, but he didn't melt
         | the trace itself.
        
           | Communitivity wrote:
           | Thank you for explaining that, as you can tell I don't work
           | with PCBs myself, and this was back in 2000.
        
       | amtamt wrote:
       | Beware, hair dryers can also cause a failed rocket launch.
       | https://metro.co.uk/2010/09/06/hairdryer-malfunction-leads-t...
        
       | [deleted]
        
       | Tade0 wrote:
       | I would never guess that a piece of even consumer hardware was
       | designed with such low tolerances as to develop such issues.
       | 
       | Is this some kind of a trend that I'm not up to date with?
       | 
       | I was surprised to find out that my laptop fans started first
       | getting noisy and then rattling after less than two years since
       | purchase. I searched around and apparently the tight tolerances
       | combined with low quality of the bearings eventually produce this
       | effect.
       | 
       | This is especially audible if I let them heat up - it appears
       | that thermal expansion is enough for the blades to get too close
       | to the housing.
       | 
       | I ordered a set of new ones and appropriate tools, but I can't
       | imagine doing this every two years. My previous laptop lasted
       | around seven, after which both the battery and the power socket
       | gave out.
        
         | ungamedplayer wrote:
         | If this is the case, you could consider bearingless fans, which
         | should prevent them from wearing out. The only issue is you may
         | not be able to find them in the size requirement you need.
         | 
         | Good luck !
        
         | Fradow wrote:
         | He's talking about a 12 years-old screen that probably saw
         | daily use. Something failing at that point is more than
         | expected.
         | 
         | As others have noted, it's in fact probably bad capacitors,
         | which is a really common issue for electronics of that era. I
         | also encountered that several times, it's a quick fix if you
         | know how to solder new ones, and you can find such capacitors
         | for cheap (like 1$ cheap last time I had to look, though
         | finding that price for a single one is hard, and much less when
         | bought in bulk).
        
         | li2uR3ce wrote:
         | > Is this some kind of a trend that I'm not up to date with?
         | 
         | It's called planned obsolescence and it's part of the factory-
         | to-landfill pipeline. It's not exactly new.
         | 
         | Do we know how to make a long lasting laptop fan? Yes. Would
         | nearly every consumer pay $0.25 more for a laptop with a longer
         | lasting fan? Yes. Can you buy laptops with high quality fans?
         | Yes, but seemingly only by dumb luck.
         | 
         | By the time you figure out that a product has a high failure
         | part the company will no longer be manufacturing it and
         | therefore reviews won't be relevant (granting relative immunity
         | to bad reviews). And when every brand is doing it, there's no
         | way for "free market" competition to sort it out. It's a race
         | to the bottom. (3. 2. 1. Cue "The morality of protecting share
         | holders eclipses the morality of ripping consumers off.")
         | 
         | I only buy used laptops now. The significant reduction in price
         | is a reduction in risk. Also a used product has had "burn in"
         | time to weed out the lemons. The engineer calculated xx% of
         | fail-early laptops often aren't the ones being resold.
         | 
         | I'm bitter. I'm cynical. Despite being aware of my mind's
         | ability to find patterns to confirm my biases... I'm really
         | struggling to be excited about new products. I'm spent like
         | nuclear fuel; I'm toxic. They say knowing is half the battle...
         | not in psychology. Doesn't help me a damned bit.
         | 
         | Today's sponsor is Better Help. I should just stop now.
        
           | MichaelZuo wrote:
           | Or you buy a laptop brand that's specifically targeted for
           | long-lasting professional use only, like Panasonic Toughbooks
           | or Thinkpad P series workstations. So all the problems
           | associated with consumer race-to-the-bottom type stuff is
           | avoided. And if not the 5 year+ next day on site warranty
           | would cover it.
           | 
           | Are you willing to pay for it though?
        
           | mindslight wrote:
           | Buying older hardware is also one of the few ways to have it
           | be documented enough to be able to remove all of the crapware
           | baked in by the manufacturers. Every laptop newer than the
           | Thinkpad X230 is basically dead to me.
        
           | Tade0 wrote:
           | > They say knowing is half the battle... not in psychology.
           | 
           | I've felt this so many times that I gave it a name: "the
           | falling physicist problem".
           | 
           | A physicist falling without a parachute from the very top of
           | the troposphere knows, that his terminal velocity is around
           | 50m/s and was reached via gravity pulling him towards the
           | ground.
           | 
           | Nevertheless he's going to go _splat_ the same way anyone
           | else would, because sometimes knowing is just not enough.
        
         | slig wrote:
         | Isn't that just
         | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planned_obsolescence ?
        
         | rasz wrote:
         | >I would never guess that a piece of even consumer hardware was
         | designed with such low tolerances as to develop such issues.
         | 
         | It wasnt, the explanation in the blog is nonsense. 10 years is
         | a good lifespan for capacitors working in hot environment, and
         | that is what failed. Electrolytic Capacitors are perishable,
         | they age even when not used.
         | 
         | >I ordered a set of new ones and appropriate tools, but I can't
         | imagine doing this every two years. My previous laptop lasted
         | around seven, after which both the battery and the power socket
         | gave out.
         | 
         | then use better quality replacement mechanical part. People
         | arent surprised when servicing cars, why different expectations
         | with modern electronics?
        
           | Tade0 wrote:
           | > Electrolytic Capacitors are perishable, they age even when
           | not used.
           | 
           | But not _that_ perishable. I have some old electronics, along
           | with fully analog devices (guitar effects) and they, along
           | with their power supplies(which get hot) still work.
           | 
           | > People arent surprised when servicing cars, why different
           | expectations with modern electronics?
           | 
           | Because they have orders of magnitude less moving parts - if
           | any.at all. Is it unreasonable to expect something that has
           | one moving part to not fail after two years?
           | 
           | Actually, I wouldn't want a car exhibiting mechanical
           | problems after such a short period.
        
       | favadi wrote:
       | I fixed mine with duck tape:
       | https://pbs.twimg.com/media/FLIl30yVcAQcKw2?format=jpg&name=....
        
       | bayindirh wrote:
       | I had a similar problem with some small exotic parts on my
       | Hyundai L90D+. After being able to source them, I replaced the
       | parts, and my monitor came back to life, briefly.
       | 
       | After 30 minutes or so, another part of the board has fried, so I
       | just replaced the monitor, quite sadly.
        
       | gijsnijholt1980 wrote:
       | Can confirm that this saved our old Samsung lcd television.
       | 
       | It took longer and longer to turn on. Some guy on YouTube used
       | this hair dryer trick. So I did just that, blow the air inside
       | the TV from below through the panels, and like magic it works
       | again. Life hack!
       | 
       | Curious why it works though
        
       | rasz wrote:
       | A lot of theory and weird explanations (weird for an EE), but no
       | verification like actually measuring VEN. hair dryer = dried
       | capacitors, not LDO. Heating up temporarily rejuvenates dead
       | caps.
        
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       (page generated 2022-05-13 23:01 UTC)