[HN Gopher] Shooting at midday (2019)
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       Shooting at midday (2019)
        
       Author : Kaibeezy
       Score  : 25 points
       Date   : 2022-08-22 10:51 UTC (12 hours ago)
        
 (HTM) web link (scottkelby.com)
 (TXT) w3m dump (scottkelby.com)
        
       | [deleted]
        
       | armadsen wrote:
       | I've really only ever thought of Sunny 16 as a rule to use when
       | shooting with a camera that doesn't have a light meter. Another
       | trick you can use is to enable center weighted or spot metering
       | on your camera, then take more control over which part of the
       | scene the meter is using to calculate exposure. ie. If you're
       | trying to expose for detail in the shadows, point the center of
       | the frame at the shadows and lock the exposure.
        
       | scubakid wrote:
       | Is my intuition right that this is not achievable on a smartphone
       | due to the limited/fixed apertures?
        
         | bombcar wrote:
         | Some of what this does is what the fancy software on the phones
         | tries to do in software.
        
         | hug wrote:
         | _Kinda._
         | 
         | The values are all reciprocal. While you can't stop down to
         | f/16 because of the fixed aperture, you _can_ increase the
         | shutter speed to compensate.
         | 
         | Assuming ISO 100, so an initial starting shutter speed of 1/100
         | and a phone with a fixed aperture of f/2, then you need to
         | calculate the difference in exposure between f/16 and f/2,
         | which is six stops. If you compensate by setting your shutter
         | speed to 1/6400 (i.e.: six stops over 1/100) you'll be in line
         | with Sunny 16.
         | 
         | This depends on having manual control of your exposure and a
         | phone with a shutter speed that goes that high, but I think
         | most do.
        
       | munificent wrote:
       | This will correct one fairly minor problem with shooting in
       | bright sunlight: incorrect metering. But it doesn't fix many of
       | the other problems that lead to not-great midday landscape
       | photos:
       | 
       |  _Stronger highlights suck out color._ Highlights on leaves are
       | white when the leaf itself is green, so when you have more bright
       | highlights and strong shadows, the result is the foliage becomes
       | desaturated. Instead of invited greenery, you get a harsh
       | staticky jumble of white and black.
       | 
       |  _Direct light sucks detail out of shadows._ When the lighting is
       | diffuse because of cloud cover or a low sun angle going through a
       | lot more atmosphere which then reflects it around, you have beams
       | of light coming in from all different directions. This means more
       | light is able to work its way into shadows. That in turn
       | preserves imagery in there and gives you more to look at. In
       | direct overhead sunlight, shadows are inky black and featureless.
       | 
       |  _The color is less interesting._ Overhead sunlight is going
       | through less atmosphere, so it hits the ground mostly white. That
       | leads to a neutral color cast to the image. Angled sunlight goes
       | through a much greater volume of atmosphere. Air doesn 't scatter
       | sunlight uniformly and the effect on light depends on its
       | frequency/color (Rayleigh scattering). The sky appears blue and
       | the sun a warm yellow or orange. That in turn means that directly
       | illuminated parts of the photo get a warm cast and the indirect
       | illumination gets cooler. In other words, beautiful warm
       | highlights and blue shadows.
       | 
       |  _It just looks harsh and unappealing._ Photos aren 't just
       | collections of pixels. We recognize what we're looking at. And
       | humans generally find the angled indirect light of gentle morning
       | on the heath more inviting than the boiling overhead glare of a
       | desert sun.
       | 
       | You can take beautiful, striking landscape photos in midday, of
       | course. But you can't _nullify_ its effect. The light you choose
       | will determine the photo. Sunlight is as fundamental to
       | photography as the human subject is to portraiture.
        
       | [deleted]
        
       | rrauenza wrote:
       | This must explain why I always feel like I need to crank up the
       | exposure in lightroom on sunny day photos. I'll have to set it to
       | full manual to sunny 16 and see what difference it makes.
        
         | Kaibeezy wrote:
         | The line that caught my eye: _your camera is being tricked into
         | metering reflected light which, in bright sunlight, causes it
         | to read the scene incorrectly because of harsh highlights and
         | shadows..._
         | 
         | Effectively: Try to override clashing inputs by using a
         | reasonable average setting. Seems like I could (and probably
         | do) apply that in other venues: cooking, music, personnel
         | management, etc.
        
       | uniqueuid wrote:
       | Sure it's possible to get nice shots at noon, but you're awfully
       | limited when your f-stop begins at 16. Depth of field is
       | important, and some cameras don't even have a 1/8000 second
       | shutter. That's why it makes a lot of sense to go for sunrise and
       | sundown by default.
        
       | _HMCB_ wrote:
       | I just started shooting bracketed exposures last week trying to
       | captures exterior of homes better. I'm going to try this.
        
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       (page generated 2022-08-22 23:00 UTC)