Bow Hunting

Whitetail Tactics

By Andrew Saari

Copyright © 2012

Table of Contents

Bow Hunting: An Introduction

Shooting a Bow and Arrow

Arrow Types and their Benefits

Nocking and Drawing

Shooting Traditional Bows

Using Recurve Bows

Shooting Compound Bows

Deer Behavior

Deer Behavior in the Spring

Summer and Early Fall Deer Behavior

Fall and Winter Deer Behavior

Best Techniques for Finding Deer

Hunting Deer with a Bow And Arrow

Deer Season for the Bow and Arrow

What to Do to Prepare for Deer Season

Reading the Moon and Weather Patterns

What You Can Learn from Deer Antlers

Using Deer Antlers and Other Deer Calls

Tracking Deer

Tracking Your Deer

Following Your Deer After Its Been Shot

Bow Hunting Methods

Hunting from Stands

Bow Hunting from Blinds

Still Hunting: Your Best Bet?

Spot and Stalk Bow Hunting

The Rut

Deer Mating Season

Buck Behavior during the Rut

Doe Behavior during the Rut?

Finding Deer During the Rut

How to Maximize the Benefits of the Rut

Advanced Bow Hunting Techniques

Using Deer Decoys

Using Deer Calls

Keeping Sharp during the Off Season

Enjoying a Lifetime of Bow Hunting

Bow Hunting: An Introduction

Bow hunting whitetail deer is one of the most exciting and enjoyable outdoor experiences imaginable. It taps into man's primal, natural role as a hunter and provider. Bow hunting requires not only patience, but exceptional cloaking, tracking and other hunting skills.

Bow hunting evokes a bygone era in this continent's history that will never be recaptured, during which the indigenous people hunted these same lands to provide food for their tribes. When you are out in the woods alone, armed with nothing more than a bow and arrow, it's easy to feel an emotional connection with those proud warriors, by literally walking in their footsteps.

Hunting with a bow also makes the hunt more of a challenge, putting the hunter on more equal footing with his prey. To harvest a buck with a bow, you really have to get right up close to it. Sometimes, even close enough to smell it, and look directly into its eyes. For many hunters, having respect for their prey is an important part of hunting. When you are that close to the animal you are going to shoot, it makes it seem more personal, than when you are shooting from a distance.

In short, hunting with a bow and arrow is sort of like a more intense version of hunting with a rifle. You have to be closer, the deer has a better chance of survival, and there's more potential danger of being spotted by the buck, before you get your shot off.

Bow hunting season typically starts earlier, and lasts longer than traditional deer rifle seasons. This allows hunters to get out into the woods during some of the most beautiful times of the year, when the leaves on the trees are just turning color, and temperatures are still comfortably warm.

Almost all states allow the use of long bows, compound bows and recurve bows for hunting deer, during the bow hunting season. Some states even allow the use of crossbows during bow hunting season, with some limitations on age. Crossbows are much more accurate and powerful than standard bows, and are easier to operate, making the hunt less of a challenge than with other types of bows. However, it is still more difficult than hunting with a rifle.

Like using a rifle, bow hunting requires a lot of practice, before beginners can become adept at hitting their targets. But, unlike the rifle, the bow also requires a fair amount of strength to be able to pull back the string that propels the arrow. Because of this, newcomers are usually encouraged to spend more time perfecting their skills, before heading out into the woods. Even though the basics of operating a bow can be easily learned by just about anybody, it takes time to learn good habits, and develop our bow shooting skills the right way.

Once you become good at shooting a bow accurately, the rewards of bow hunting are tremendous, and far exceed those of rifle hunting. It's one thing to hunt a deer from a hundred yards away or more using a high- powered rifle and a precision-calibrated scope, but that doesn't compare to the adrenaline rush that comes with dropping a deer from a short distance, using a weapon that relies solely upon your own strength and skill.

In this comprehensive guide, we will be examining every aspect of bow hunting, so you can enjoy years of excitement from this sport.

We will examine the best methods for hunting deer with a bow and arrow, including how to prepare your weapons for the hunt. Then, taking a comprehensive look at deer behavior, and how understanding it can improve your chances of bagging a trophy buck. Using the moon and weather patterns to predict optimal hunting times, and how to use deer antlers, calls, decoys and other devices to lure deer to within your sights will also be discussed.

Then, we'll move on to tracking deer and interpreting deer tracks. The best hunting methods will be reviewed, including hunting from stands and blinds, still hunting, and spot and stalk bow hunting. Then, we'll move on to a discussion of the rut, and its importance to a successful hunt, followed by some advanced bow hunting techniques.

There is a lot of information in this guide that can help you maximize your time spent deer hunting and improve your hunting skills, so you are more likely to have a successful bow hunting experience every time.

Shooting a Bow and Arrow

While the concept of the bow and arrow remains unchanged since pre-historic times, the equipment used today has significantly improved. Hunters today have a wide variety of bows, arrows and arrowheads to choose from. The most popular bows are:

Traditional Bow - Also called the longbow, it is very similar to the bow used by archers throughout history. The bow itself is straight, until it is strung. When it is strung, it curves. Sometimes, it also has a handgrip and a sight.

Long Bow

Recurve Bow - Also called the composite bow, the design of this type of bow makes it much more powerful than a traditional bow. As a result, it is not generally used with any type of extra mechanical devices. Originally made from one piece, modern recurve bows are usually made from three pieces: the riser and two limbs.

Recurve Bow

The Compound Bow - This type is similar to a traditional bow, but equipped with a series of cables and pulleys that require less effort for you to hold the string back at full draw, than the peak draw weight. The compound bow is by far the most popular type of bow used today.

Compound Bow

Although some bows today are still made from wood, an increasing number are being manufactured from lighter materials like carbon or composite materials. For the bowstring, they are now made with linen, Dacron and other high tech fibers.

Even though there are many variations of each of these types of bows, they frequently include many of the same features:

Handle/Grip - Handles on recurve bows and compound bows are usually produced with wood or plastic. They come in various types, so you can hold the bow differently, depending on your preference.

Riser/Handle - The riser is the center section of the bow. It holds together most of what is attached to the bow, including the limbs, the sight, the button, and the rest. Like grips, risers come in different types to accommodate the way you prefer to hold the bow. Some even have holes drilled through them to allow the wind to pass through, which prevents the wind from affecting your aim.

Limbs - These are the longest pieces of the bow that bend when your bow is pulled back, and produce all of the energy used to propel the arrow. The limbs, which are attached to the riser, are usually different types of materials layered together for optimum flexibility and resistance to deformities

String - Most strings today are made by twisting several strings of Kevlar, Dacron or any number of other more high-tech materials, into a single cord. Although Dacron is less expensive, it has a tendency to creep, or stretch, more than some of the more efficient strings being produced today, making it less consistent for accuracy.

Rest - This is the area where the arrow sits right before being shot is called the rest. With a longbow, there is typically no rest other than the archer's hand. Other bows typically have rests made of plastic or metal. Compound bows sometimes have drop-away rests that collapse the moment the arrow is shot, so the arrow doesn't drag on the rest and veer off its target.

Sights - There are several different styles of sights used on bows. They serve the same purpose, which is to tell you where your arrow is aimed. The sights on some compound bows also include a level, which tells you if the bow is tipped to one side or the other.

Clicker - On a recurve bow, the clicker tells you when the string is pulled back a specified distance. This helps you know if the string is too far, too short or exactly in the right position to fire an accurate arrow.

Nocking Point - This is a metal clip or a bit of string that is attached to the bowstring to keep the arrow nock in a certain spot on the bowstring. The nocking point prevents the arrow from moving up or down the string.

Kisser - This is a small button that is fixed onto the string that touches the corner of your mouth, when the string is pulled back. It gives you a reference point, so you know when the string has been pulled back to the optimal position.

Arrow Types and their Benefits

Like bows, arrows come in different types:

Arrow shafts today are made of wood, aluminum, carbon or even a carbon/aluminum combination. You shouldn't use wooden arrows with a compound bow to avoid the danger of splintering.

Most hunters today use carbon arrows for deer hunting. That's because they are lighter and faster than most other arrows. Because they are made from carbon, they are less prone to bending than aluminum arrows. When they hit a deer hide, they will either remain straight or break, depending on where they hit, the angle they hit, and how fast they were shot.

The arrowheads, also known as points, come in various shapes and sizes depending on what they are to be used for. For simple target practice,

field points are used. For whitetail deer, broadheads, such as the fixed or expandable blades are used.

Even though arrows come in a variety of types and sizes, they share many of the same features:

Nock - This is the notch at the rear of the arrow that fits onto the bowstring and nocking point. Nocks are usually composed of a plastic clip.

Vanes - These are the three feathers near the rear of the arrow, which keep the arrow stabilized during flight. They are also called the fletching. The vanes are set at right angles to the nock and can be made of plastic or feathers.

Shaft - This is the long, center part of the arrow to which all of the other parts are attached. Longbow shafts are usually made of wood, while shafts for arrows to be used with a recurve or compound bow are typically made of aluminum, carbon or a combination of aluminum and carbon.

In addition to bows and arrows, archers also use other equipment to make the sport simpler and more comfortable, including:

Arm Guard - This is a sheath that fits over the bow arm. It is used to prevent the string from striking the arm, when the arrow is released.

Chest Guard - This is a piece worn over the chest. It is used for protection, and keeps loose clothing from getting caught by the string.

Nocking and Fetching Jigs - These are used to attach a nock and vanes onto the shaft, respectively.

String Server - This is a tool used to create nocking points on the string.

Release aid - This is a device that clamps a nocking point on the string, and is used to pull back the string and arrow, without your fingers actually touching the string. It is mostly used with compound bows. The release aid is strapped around your wrist, and the device is used to pull the string back, instead of using the three finger grip. A trigger on the release aid releases the arrow, much like the trigger on a gun. This allows for more consistent release of the arrow.

Like any sport, the better the quality of the equipment you use, the better the results. If you purchase inexpensive archery equipment, you may not always have the best experience. Always remember the old warning- you get what you pay for. And, because a bow is a lethal weapon, using substandard equipment could present a serious safety hazard.

Fortunately, finding high-quality archery equipment that is also affordable is no problem. When shopping for a bow, make sure you select one that is the proper size for you. If it is too large or too small, you won't be able to shoot it properly. You'll need to figure out your draw length, and how much of a draw weight you can handle. If the draw weight is too high, you could have difficulty pulling and holding it back. Spend some time making your selection, and ask for the assistance of the sporting supplies salesperson. They are trained in helping people just like you select the best equipment.

The type of arrow you select depends on the type of bow you will be using, so choose your bow before you pick out your arrows. Bows that have longer draw lengths or higher draw weights require different arrows.

Remember to take care of your equipment and always follow the manufacturer's recommended maintenance. Poor maintenance will result in inaccuracy, increased risk of accident and injury, and a shorter usable life.

Nocking and Drawing

Nocking and drawing is the process of attaching the arrow to the string and pulling the string back to the optimal distance. When you are first starting out, you will probably want to use a bow that has a lower draw weight. Although it won't shoot an arrow as far, or as accurately as a bow with a higher draw weight, it will allow you to get used to the feel of nocking and drawing. As your abilities improve, you can move up to a bow with a higher draw weight. If you try to use a bow with a higher draw weight too soon, you may not have built up the strength to handle it correctly, and the result may be inaccurate shots or even a pulled muscle or other injury.

Like any sport, it's difficult to learn how to nock and draw a bow and arrow by reading a book. It requires proper instruction and practice. A good instructor will not only help you select the right bow for you, but will develop good technique and proper posture, both of which are critical to accurately shooting a bow and arrow. When your technique improves, the accuracy and distance of your shots will improve.

When nocking and drawing your arrow, the accuracy of your shot can be affected by many variables. Some of the most common include, using a poor shooting stance, poor mental focus, bad anchor positions, and interference from objects in your pockets.

When you are first learning to shoot the bow and arrow, don't worry about hitting the bullseye with your arrow, or even the target itself. Instead, focus on attaining the proper form, and completing the proper follow through.

As you practice, work on developing strong mental concentration skills and positive mental habits. The most important tool any archer has is his or her own mind. By staying focused on the task at hand, and not allowing your mind to wander, you can quickly improve your skills. Shooting a bow and arrow is a mental activity, as much as it is a physical one. Developing the discipline required to attain the correct mental state will help you immensely, when it is time for the hunt.

To ensure an accurate shot, the arrow much be nocked in the proper position on the bowstring. Once you are in your shooting stance, place the arrow on the bowstring, with the index feather pointing outward. (The index feather is the differently colored fletching.) The nocking points on the bow will be slightly wider than the width of the arrow, so you have room to make adjustments, if needed. When the arrow is properly nocked, it should be at a 90° angle to the string.

When drawing back the string, make sure to grasp the bow firmly, but do not squeeze. Remember to use the proper accessories, such as the arm guard or the chest guard. Another important thing to remember is to remain as relaxed as possible.

Anchor Point and Release

The action of pulling the bowstring to the anchor point on your face is called drawing. Here is where controlled breathing comes in handy. When you are able to control your breathing throughout the drawing, aiming and releasing, you have a better chance of hitting your mark.

Most people use a traditional three-finger grip when shooting a long bow or a recurve bow. This grip basically puts the index finger above the arrow, and the next two, below the arrow on the string. This type of grip puts a lot of pressure on the fingers as the string is drawn back. Using a release aid will relieve this pressure.

Before the bow is raised, your body should already be in the correct position, with an arrow placed in the nocking point on the string. Then, simply raise your bow and focus on your target. This is called nocking. Next, you draw back your arrow, and aim at the target. The anchor point is the place on your face where your hand is placed consistently, with the bowstring at optimal draw. Using the proper and comfortable anchor point, increases your chances of hitting your target consistently.

The best anchor point for you depends on your facial contour and the way you shoot. Many hunters prefer to use an anchor point that is on or near the cheekbone, and closer to the eye. This is considered a high anchor point. If the anchor point is on or below the jaw bone, it is considered low, and is usually the preferred point for beginning archers. As you practice your shooting, you will find the anchor point that is most comfortable for you.

After the bow is drawn, you want to align the sight and level the bow. If it's not lined up properly, it will affect your shooting. If your hand is tired, it will influence your alignment.

Next, make sure you have the proper string position and sight picture. Is the arrow 90° to the string? Can you see your target clearly? If not, make the necessary adjustments. A helpful hint is to visualize the arrow hitting the target where you want it to go. Focus on your target, and try to relax, as much as possible.

It's common among new archers for the bow to begin to shake, when drawn back. This usually means the bow's draw weight is too high. If you want to make sure you are going to hit your target, you must be able to keep your bow from wavering for at least 10 seconds, and preferably even longer.

Release the arrow, and focus on your follow through. That simply means holding the release position, until the arrow is safely launched toward the target, or until you hear the arrow hit its target. Some key elements for a successful release are being relaxed and having good concentration.

Your head and eyes should be focused on your mark, following your arrow's flight. And, the arm you are holding the bow with should be stretched out toward the target, and slightly bent at the elbow. Keeping the slight bend prevents the bowstring from slapping your arm.

When you are ready to release your arrow, tense the muscles in your back, and then, let go of the string. The fingers on your hand holding the bowstring will need to be relaxed in order to allow the string to roll off and be released. If you flick your wrist to release the bowstring, it will cause too much movement, and the arrow will not go in the direction you were aiming.

After the arrow is released, there is a natural recoil reaction. When the arrow is flying, both of your hands and arms should remain fixed, to avoid interfering with the arrow's flight.

To help you master these techniques during a hunt, you should practice a mental program. A mental program is a series of procedures you use to relax during the hunt. It should be practiced regularly, so it will become second nature when you are in the woods. Although it's different for everybody, many hunters use a mental checklist to help them stay focused, concentrate on the shot, and release the tension. An example of a mental checklist would be:

Stance: Assume the most balanced stance, and nock your arrow.

Draw and Aim: Raise your bow, and draw the string back. Anchor, and then, coordinate your sight and level. After that, focus on your target, steady the bow, and aim at your target.

Release and Follow Through: Tighten your back muscles, relax your draw hand to release the arrow, or squeeze the trigger on your release. And, keep your bow arm up and steady, until the arrow hits the target.

Shooting Traditional Bows

The traditional flat bow is non-recurved, and has relatively wide limbs with a cross section that is an approximate rectangle. The flat bow is very similar to the classic longbow. A short bow is simply a shorter version of the flat bow or the longbow, with the exception of being more manoeuvrable than either of those types of bows. With a short bow, the arrow cannot be drawn back as far, so it provides shorter range. Short bows were originally used for hunting by Native American tribes and African Bushmen.

Using Recurve Bows

Recurve bows tend to be extremely light, and their limb ends curve forward, which helps make the draw smoother.

Shooting Compound Bows

The intricate pulleys and wires on the compound bow make it considerably easier to draw back compared to the recurve and long bows. Because less force is required by the archer to hold the compound bow back at full draw, you can concentrate better on the target.

Overall, energy is stored by the mechanical structure of the compound bow, because it uses elliptical or cam wheels on the limb ends to optimize leverage exerted by the draw.

Deer Behavior

In order to hunt deer, I feel it's important that you understand at least a little about them, and some of their habits throughout the year. As in previous books I've written, I've included some of this information. If you gain an understanding of these whitetail deer habits, it will better enable you to hunt them, when hunting season comes around.

Whitetail deer are the most common type of deer in North America. Deer are one species that is far from endangered. In fact, quite the opposite is true. In 1900, there were an estimated 500,000 deer in North America. Today, there are more than 20 million.

They get their name by the distinctive patch of white fur on the underside of their tails. Whitetails use this "white flag" as a distress signal to warn other deer of predators or other dangers in the area. The rest of their coat is reddish-brown in the spring and summer, which turns to a grey- brown during the late fall and winter, when they get their winter coats.

Except for mating season, does and bucks rarely socialize. Mature females tend to the young deer, known as "fawns". Smaller groups of young bucks will travel in packs of three or four. Older, dominant bucks and female deer without fawns normally travel alone. During mating season, known as the "rut," the males compete for the privilege of mating with the females.

With the exception of the rut, whitetails normally spend all of their time wandering around an area about the size of a square mile, searching for food and water. During the rut, however, they will break their normal patterns. Male deer have been known to travel many miles in a single day, during the rut.

As herbivores, deer feed on over 650 species of plants, including buds, shoots and small leaves, eating as much as 4 lbs per day for mature deer. They also love corn and acorns. They prefer to drink from streams and springs, rather than from ponds, but they will take their water from any available source.

Deer are a deeply suspicious animal, and they are constantly on guard against all predators. They try to stay out of sight, and prefer areas where there is adequate cover and a good escape route, should they sense danger. When females travel with fawns, they will frequently stand guard as the fawns feed, keeping their ears perked up, listening for disturbances in the surrounding area. They communicate with both movements, and with small grunts and bleats. Fawns will bleat frequently, while mature does will normally only make sound to indicate danger.

Bucks will make a deep grunt that is often proportional to their size. The bigger the buck is, the deeper his grunt will be.

Besides motion and sound, deer also communicate with each other by a series of eight glands they have on their bodies. Among the most important to the hunter are:

The pre-orbital gland -- Located in the deer's forehead, this gland is used to leave scent on branches and twigs, when the deer rubs its head on them.

The inter-digital gland -- Located between the deer's hooves, this gland leaves a scent trail for other deer to follow, as that deer walks down a trail or through the woods.

The metatarsal gland - Located outside of each hind leg, just above the dew claw, this gland is used to communicate information, such as the deer's sex, social status and reproductive condition.

While you will see whitetail deer during the day and at night, they are neither nocturnal nor diurnal. Instead, they are considered crepuscular, which means they are most active near sunrise and sunset.

At night, deer bed down in beds that are located in areas of dense cover. They also prefer beds that are close to a water source and a food supply. Hunters should always be on the lookout for the bedding areas of bucks.

Deer are also much faster than humans, with the ability to reach speeds of up to 40 mph on open land, and 25 mph in thick cover. They are great leapers, and can easily jump a fence that is twice their height. They also commonly jump across streams as wide as 30 feet.

Deer Behavior in the Spring

Whitetail deer have predictable behavior patterns throughout the year. In late May or early June, the does give birth to the fawns conceived during the rut. A few days before giving birth, does will return to familiar fawn-rearing areas. Unlike humans, does have some control over when their fawns will be born, so they can spend up to several days looking for a site that is suitable, away from predators. Once they locate their preferred spot, they give birth to one or two fawns. They will remain in the birthing spot for about three hours, in order to give their offspring time to bond with them. It doesn't take long for fawns to walk, however, and soon they are up and following their mothers in the constant search for food.

Doe and fawn on my trail camera in Solon Springs, Wisconsin

This time of year, there are generally a lot of the types of foods deer prefer, such as newly sprouted grass, low-hanging buds on trees and shrubs. So, the food supply is abundant. Deer will feed longer in the spring, because they need to recover the body mass they lost during the winter months, when the food supply was limited.

Deer consume a large amount of salt in the spring. Although it's not clear why this is, some naturalists theorize that the sudden increase in nutrients caused by the abundance of spring growth causes deer to urinate more, which results in a sodium loss. The deer may try to replace this sodium with salt.

As their fawns feed, does are alert and aggressive. They ward off predators, and even other deer. Sometimes, they will wander off to feed themselves, but as soon as their fawns utter a bleat or a bawl, the does will come running, to protect them from danger.

As we mentioned earlier, bucks begin to grow new antlers in the spring. And some types of deer, such as Northern deer, begin their migration to their summer feeding grounds. This can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks. Most deer stay in the same winter and summer ranges for their whole lives, but spring weather allows deer to explore a little more, and to extend their home range.

All deer will shed their thick winter coats during the spring. This process, called molting, occurs again just prior to winter, when the deer grow their winter coats. This process is triggered by changes in temperature and light.

Deer's social structure is at its most normal during the spring. Females with fawns will herd them through the woods, searching out food supplies and protecting the fawns from danger. Young bucks will travel in small herds of two or three, seeking out food, water and shelter. Females without fawns, and mature, dominant bucks, will travel solo, generally trying to avoid the rest of the deer population, as well as predators.

Summer and Early Fall Deer Behavior

When the warm weather of summer hits, deer tend to eat more, because their food supply has just exploded. And, because there are few predators, such as hunters, in the woods, deer tend to be bolder. They will venture into areas you won't see them at other times of the year. Summertime is when you are most likely to see a deer wander into your campsite or your backyard. Frequently, there are cases of deer entering suburban, or even urban areas during the warm weather months.

Fawns learn about the world by following their mothers around, and the two are bonded to each other by their odors. Although life is easier for deer during the summer months, it is not problem-free. Droughts can limit their water supply, and some deer compete with livestock for food.

As the summer fades, and it gets closer to mating season, deer behavior will begin to change. The small groups of males will split up. The males within the groups who have been traveling peacefully together all spring and summer, will suddenly start to fight one another, literally locking horns in an effort to establish a dominance hierarchy, and impress females. Male and female populations will begin to interact more frequently, even though the actual rut won't occur for a few more weeks.

After the fall equinox, the daylight hours will become incrementally shorter. For deer, this acts like a countdown to the rut. As the days shrink, their excitement levels rise. It is during this time that dominant males will begin to mark their territories with urine, scrapes on the ground, and rubs on trees and bushes, using their hooves and antlers. It's not uncommon for younger bucks to attempt to challenge the dominant males for supremacy, resulting in epic buck battles for the right to mate with the most desirable females.

Female deer are also affected by the approach of mating season. Although their first priority is still caring for their fawns, they will become more aware of the bucks and will eventually begin to emit a musk that indicates their willingness to mate.

Fall and Winter Deer Behavior

As fall approaches and the weather cools, deer respond by consuming more food in preparation for the sparse winter months that lie ahead. Females, in particular, will almost double their intake, as they prepare their bodies for pregnancy.

It's no coincidence that hunting season coincides with mating season and the rut. Deer are at their most active during the rut. And, they are far more likely to be distracted by their desire to find a mate, than they would normally be. They let down their guards, and take chances by moving into areas that their natural suspicion would normally keep them away from.

For fawns, fall is a time of learning the ways of the herd. They observe social interaction and posturing protocols. They have some of their first encounters with full-grown males with full racks. Fawns will observe as bucks begin the annual ritual of fighting and mating.

During these fall months, the deer's diet will change, as they begin to seek out foods that are rich in carbohydrates, such as acorns, beechnuts, pecans and apples. These types of foods, along with crops, such as corn and wheat, allow the deer to build the fat supplies they will need to carry them through the coming rut and subsequent winter months. The deer will favor the foods that are ripening at this time. You should look for these foods, in order to find the deer.

In the northern states, winter is more severe. It has more impact on the deer population, than in the southern states. In order to escape the worst of the snow and freezing temperatures, some herds of deer will migrate as far as 50 miles from their summer range. When the ground freezes, the food supply becomes scarce, and deer are forced to scrounge on whatever twigs or brush they can find.

Deer can go for several days without feeding. Their metabolism shifts, and they begin consuming their fat stores when this happens. When left without food for too long, however, the whitetail's body will begin to deplete.

Some older bucks, worn out or perhaps injured during the rut, will die. Without adequate food or shelter, some does and fawns will perish as well, from malnutrition, exposure or predators. For those surviving deer, their metabolism slows down during the winter, so they don't need as much food. Although deer don't hibernate, they won't spend as many hours out roaming the woods, during the winter months.

The deer also have the advantage of a thick winter coat to keep them warm. The dark gray coat absorbs the suns heat. When the temperatures get really low, deer will tighten their skin muscles, causing their coat hairs to stand on end. This process traps air near the surface of their skin, which gives them an additional layer of insulation.

The social groups that were abandoned during the rut, are reformed during the winter months. So, bucks who only a few weeks before were fighting to the death are again becoming fast friends. Fawns observe their mothers and older deer, to learn how to survive harsh winter conditions.

In the heart of winter, it is not uncommon for large groups of deer to congregate in one area, called a "deer yard." Typically, it is a protected field or grove that is located near a food supply, and has physical properties that make it warmer than other areas, such as being on a south-facing slope.

When trapped in deer yards for too long, the deer can become anxious, and will begin to fight over food. Often, fawns are bullied by older deer, or are caught in the middle of the struggle between larger adults. They are also unable to reach the higher food on branches. It these things occur, the fawns may be killed.

Deer are also likely to become injured, due to hazards caused by winter conditions. These hazards include slips on ice, becoming slowed or trapped in deep snow, and falls down embankments. Predators, such as wolves or coyotes, will often herd deer out onto frozen lakes, where the deer are easier to take down.

Whitetails have a sense of smell that is far superior to a human's. In fact, does identify their fawns not by sight, but by smell. Deer can also hear frequencies almost twice as high as humans. Their eyesight is better. Unlike the round pupil of a human, a deer's pupil is rectangular, so they have a larger field of view from each eye. Also, their eyes are located on the sides of their heads, allowing them to see behind them, as well as almost every other angle.

Best Techniques for Finding Deer

Perhaps the best technique for finding deer is to look for deer trails that are most likely to lead to food or drink. You are most likely to see them in these areas during dusk and dawn, because this is when they are the most active. During the midday and at night, they conceal themselves deep in the woods, often congregating in large groups within secluded areas.

Using antler rattling, calls, and decoys, are all ways to try to attract deer, but these will generally only be effective during the rut. At other times of the year, deer most likely won't be fooled, or interested.

The keys to successfully finding deer are often related to where you are located. One resource you'll want to check out is some of the many hunting websites on the internet today. Many are geographically specific, and contain a lot of great information about where deer have been spotted, how they have been moving, and how close it is until the rut. They also give you an opportunity to participate in forums and chat rooms, to exchange information, stories, maps and pictures with other hunters.

Some hunters prefer to hire guides who can bring them to exactly where the biggest bucks are located. In some cases, these hunts are "guaranteed" to get you a trophy buck. Although these tend to cost a lot of money, if you are set on getting a buck this season, then perhaps this is an option for you. Guides can be found listed in the back of any of the most popular hunting magazines, online, or even on the bulletin boards at your local sporting goods store.

For most hunters, however, tracking your own buck and getting it on your own has more value, than letting somebody else do all the hard work for you. To improve your chances, it's better to hunt on private land, than on public land. That's because there is less competition from other hunters on private land, and the deer population is less thinned out.

Permission to hunt on private land can sometimes be hard to come by, so if this isn't an option for you, and you must hunt on public land, you already have the advantage of having the bow and arrow season being longer and ending later than rifle season. But, you can also improve your odds, by traveling deeper into the woods than other hunters. Many of these hunters are satisfied with simply going a few hundred yards in, and setting up their stands. The deeper you can penetrate the forest, far from roads and other people, the higher your odds are of avoiding other hunters, and finding bigger bucks. Keep in mind, however, that the farther you go into the woods, the farther you will have to drag your buck out of the woods.

Another great technique for finding deer is to leave deer cameras in the woods, to capture deer movements, and track activity. These motion- sensitive, infrared cameras can capture images of deer in any light, and they can even be instantly transmitted to your home computer or your smart phone. The cameras time stamp the images, and give other critical information, such as barometric pressure, temperature, and even what phase the moon is in.

Buck on my trail camera near Solon Springs, Wisconsin

Finally, being patient is the hunter's best option for getting the buck they want. There are a lot of bucks in the woods, but very few of them are actually big enough and have a rack that qualifies them as "trophy bucks." If you fill your tag with a smaller buck, when you finally come across a trophy buck, you may not be able to shoot at it.

Hunting Deer With a Bow and Arrow

The biggest difference between hunting deer with a bow and arrow, and using a rifle, is shooting range. While it's possible to accurately shoot deer with a rifle from 100 yards away or more, a bow and arrow requires you to be less than 40 yards away, in most cases. This means the successful bow hunter must be much more patient and skilled than his rifletoting counterpart.

If you haven't practiced your bow shooting skills to the point that you are able to be on target most of the time, don't bother going into the woods. You will only be wasting your time and, even worse, could end up injuring a buck, without killing it. Practice your skills at an archery range or, if you live in a rural area, somewhere where you can shoot at a target without fear of hitting anything beyond your intended target.

It's a good idea to use a target that is approximately the size of a deer. You can buy targets in the shape of a deer, with replaceable vital areas. You should practice shooting with the same pull weight you plan to use while hunting. When you can get at least 8 out of 10 arrows in the target, you are ready for the woods.

It's also a good idea to practice walking silently through the woods. If you crash through the brush in your quest for deer, it's unlikely you will see very many. Instead, model the Native American hunters, who were able to make their way through the woods in almost absolute silence wearing moccasins, or even barefoot. While I don't really expect you to go through the woods barefoot, you should pay careful attention to where you're stepping. Avoid twigs and other noisemakers on the ground, and walk very, very slowly.

In most cases, bow hunters use a deer stand while hunting deer. This makes it easier to get close enough to the deer to get an effective bow shot off. It is a good idea to practice shooting your bow from your tree stand, before you actually need to shoot at a deer. The balance and stance you will use may be much different than those used while shooting from solid ground.

Know the regulations in your area regarding bow and arrow season for deer. Most states will require you to purchase both a hunting license and/or deer tags or permits. Tags or permits authorize you to kill a predetermined number of deer per season.

Deer hunting regulations differ from state to state, and sometimes even from county to county. An easy way to find out what the hunting rules are in the state where you live, is by visiting the website of your state's DNR office, or picking up a copy of your area's regulations at your nearest sporting goods store. It's important that you understand and follow the rules where you hunt, because if you get caught violating the regulations, you can have your hunting equipment seized, be banned from getting deer tags in the future, and even face fines and/or imprisonment.

If you are not hunting on public land, make sure you have the permission of the landowner to hunt there. Hunting on private land can be better than on public land, because there is less hunting pressure. If a property is posted "No Trespassing," do not hunt there or even go on the land, because you can be criminally prosecuted. In some states, the landowner even has the authority to drive you off their land by use of deadly force, if necessary.

Deer Season for the Bow and Arrow

Bow hunting season generally starts earlier, and lasts longer than rifle hunting season. If you are hunting on public lands, bow and arrow season offers you more opportunity to bag a buck than rifle season, because it almost always begins before the rest of the rifle hunters can legally enter the woods. That means there are more bucks for you to hunt, and fewer other hunters for you to contend with.

Some equipment to carry with you should include a knife for field dressing your deer, and a folding saw, so you can remove branches or tree limbs that are in your way, once you are in your deer stand. Some hunters even carry heavy twine to tie branches or limbs to the bottom of their tree stand to better camouflage them.

It's also a good idea to carry a safety rope or safety harness to wear when you are in your deer stand. This will make it safer for you. More hunting accidents involve hunters falling out of stands than getting shot. It can also allow you to lean out of your stand to make a difficult shot, without having to worry about falling.

What to Do to Prepare for Deer Season

Deer hunting, whether you are using a bow and arrow, a rifle or a muzzle-loader, is mostly about preparation. Knowing where the bucks will be and when, is the single hardest part of deer hunting, and it's a part that many hunters ignore. They believe they can just head out into the woods, and somehow stumble upon a 12-point buck they can shoot, and drag out of the woods, without any preparation whatsoever. These are foolish hunters. Sure, they might luck out once or twice, but preparation is the key to consistent deer hunting success.

Prepare for your deer hunt before the season even begins by spending some time scouting the area that you plan to hunt. Try to find the perfect place to put your stand, one that is near areas where deer are likely to congregate, and close to a deer food supply, such as fields of clover, apple trees or white oak trees.

During the rifle hunting season, there is sometimes a lot of competition for the best stand locations. Because bow and arrow season begins earlier, however, there is a better chance of claiming the best stand positions.

Signs of deer are plentiful, if you know what to look for. Deer tend to use the same trails to move from their beds to feeding and watering grounds. When you find water supplies, such as ponds or streams, it's usually a simple matter to find deer trails nearby. Also, be on the lookout for areas where deer are likely to feed, particularly breaks between dense woods and open fields, with good food supplies. When you come across these kinds of areas, look for heavily traveled trails leading from the woods into the field. Remember: Deer prefer to enter areas from the corners, not from directly on, to minimize their exposure to predators. So, check the corners of fields and clearings first.

If you come across fresh deer scat and urine, that's a sign deer have been in the area lately. Ask yourself why. Is there a food source nearby? How about a water supply? Could there be a deer bedding area nearby? Try to track backward from the deer feces, and figure out where the deer are. Look especially for deer scat near water supplies, such as rivers, and streams. Although deer will drink throughout the day, they usually drink from their primary water supply first thing in the morning, and again right before sundown.

A pair of high-powered binoculars is very helpful when scouting for popular deer hangouts. Deer have a sense of smell that is a couple thousand times more powerful than ours, and their sense of sight is better, as well. In most cases, they will be aware of your presence long before you are aware of theirs. But, scoping them with high-powered binoculars gives you an advantage, especially when you are downwind from them. Another good idea is to scout in the early morning and evening hours, so you can keep the sun behind you. This will reduce the chances of deer spotting you.

Scouting before the hunting season begins can improve your chances of finding the best location for your deer stand, which gives you a better chance of getting close enough to a buck to shoot him with a bow and arrow. As the hunting season gets underway, deer patterns will change as the deer become paranoid, and may even become nocturnal, or move deeper into the woods to avoid hunters. Once the rut begins, all bets are off, as bucks abandon their natural caution, while they aggressively seek out mates.

Reading the Moon and Weather Patterns

Deer behavior has a lot to do with light. For example, deer mating season, called the rut, begins when the amount of daylight decreases to a specific level in late fall. Although it's a little different everywhere, the rut generally occurs between late fall and the first weeks of winter. Sensing that the days are getting shorter, a kind of alarm bell goes off inside bucks that trigger them to find mates, so they can reproduce, before the freeze of winter sets in.

When this happens, bucks will wander away from their regular feeding grounds. They become more aggressive toward other males, and will compete with them in antler-crashing battles. They will respond to the grunts of other bucks, and will sometimes charge into a clearing, if they think a competing buck is waiting for them there.

Some hunters believe the rut begins exactly two weeks after the first full moon after the fall equinox. This is not precise, but it's close enough for most hunters. Usually, the calendar is a better indicator. The rut usually starts within a few days of the same date every year.

Deer definitely respond to the amount of light being reflected off the moon, but it is only one of many factors that determine where and when deer move from one area to another. Other factors include where the best food sources are, the number of predators in the area, and prevailing wind direction.

During the new moon phase, when there is no light, deer hide and won't feed at night, because they can't see predators, or easily locate the food supply. When the moon is in its waxing and waning phases, there is partial light from the moon, so deer will venture out to feed, but not as much as when there is a full moon giving maximum light.

In addition to moonlight, weather patterns also play a major role in deer behavior. In summer, when it's warmest, deer feed at first daylight, and again just after the sun goes down. During the hottest part of the day, they hide in cooler, shadier areas of the woods. When temperatures begin to drop in autumn, deer will spend more daylight hours feeding as they build up their fat stores for the winter months, when there will be less food.

In winter, deer spend more time feeding, because the food supply is scarce. When the weather gets very cold, they like to find sunny spots where they can gather in larger groups, to conserve heat.

Wind also impacts deer movement. When the wind speed is high, they prefer not to move very far from their beds, because they can't smell predators as easily. In the same way, during severe rain or snow, deer will rarely leave their beds. However, light rain or snow doesn't seem to bother them.

Deer are better weather predictors than your local weatherman. They will sense changes in weather patterns long before you will, and they have the ability to sense changes in barometric pressure, or even if there is a storm approaching. When you see deer moving toward cover, it probably means bad weather is approaching. Deer will bed down up to 8 to 16 hours before bad storms hit. And, they won't leave to return to feeding, until the weather clears.

Paying close attention to the weather and the stages of the moon, in the days before your hunt is a good way to get the jump on the deer, because you can better predict their movements. This is especially true, if the rut has begun. It's easy to tell when that has happened, because every hunter you know will be phoning, texting and posting online messages letting everybody know the rut is on.

What You Can Learn from Deer Antlers

The size of a buck's rack and number of antlers depends a lot on genetics, as well as the quantity and quality of food available to the animal. Starting in the spring and throughout the summer, bucks grow a velvety covering over their antlers that helps build up the hard, bone-like antlers. In the fall, the blood vessels located at the base of the antlers begin to constrict, and the velvet covering wrinkles up and loosens. Bucks will shed this covering, revealing the shiny, hard antlers. This is done by scraping their antlers on trees, which also helps them to mark their territory.

Young bucks will start to grow their antlers when they are roughly nine to ten months old. Much of their nutritional intake is going to growing their body, not so much to growing their antlers. In most cases, the yearling bucks, which were last year's fawns, will grow a set of spiked antlers. Their first set of antlers will be complete when they are about a year and a half old.

In the spring and summer, the highest rate of antler growth occurs. During this time, the more high protein foods like clover, along with calcium and phosphorus, that a buck takes in, the greater the growth of the antlers. So, in effect, the higher the quality of food taken in during this time, the larger the rack will be.

Bucks will have their largest rack between the ages of five and eight years old, assuming they live that long. Because of hunters' success, most bucks in the wild don't. After eight years old, the antler size will begin to decline.

Bumps and other injuries to the velvet covered antlers will cause them to grow differently. Even running through thick brush can be enough to cause an otherwise perfect rack to become deformed. Different diseases can also stunt antler growth.

When scouting for trophy bucks in the early fall, it's a good idea to look for both scrape marks at about shoulder level or lower on trees, and for residue from their antler sheds.

Using Deer Antlers and Other Deer Calls

For most of the year, big, dominant bucks will travel alone though the woods, while younger bucks will travel in smaller groups. They are generally hyper-cautious, avoiding contact with other groups of deer and certainly with people and other predators. Male and female deer generally don't travel together, except during mating season.

But, once mating season begins, bucks become much more aggressive towards each other, as they compete to impress the females, and fight to become the dominant male, with exclusive breeding rights. They fight by locking horns, and trying to throw each other to the ground, or even into trees. This type of fighting causes a clicking sound that notifies dominant bucks that other bucks are in the area. This causes them to find the other bucks, and rush in to defend their dominance.

For hunters, rattling antlers together can be a highly effective way of luring big bucks in for a shot. Occasionally, you may come across some shed antlers in the woods. If so, it's a great idea to grab them and save them. Artificial antlers, along with rattling bags, can be purchased at most sporting goods stores or online, but natural antlers are better. The clicking of antlers will sound more natural, if you soak your antlers in water the night before your hunt.

The noise caused by rattling the antlers together carries over long distances, and will get the attention of any buck within a radius of up to a mile, depending on the wind's speed and direction. This is usually enough to cause them to move toward the sound to find out what's going on. It's better to rattle the antlers gently, rather than clanging them together. It tells the dominant buck that the fighting is between younger, immature bucks, which may be more easily defeated. If you rattle the antlers too loudly, it could scare the bucks away.

During the rut, bucks will also respond to buck decoys. The sight of a competing buck, when fully aggressive, can drive them mad. They will sometimes charge into an area, in order to challenge them. When they are preparing for mating, bucks are far less cautious. They could fall for a decoy that wouldn't normally fool them any other time of year.

Deer calls are another great way to lure bucks into the open. Bucks will grunt as a means of communication. So, when you perfect the buck grunt, you can fool a dominant buck into believing you're a subordinate buck trying to call him out. If that's the case, he will usually come running to protect his territory and assert his authority.

Bucks make a different kind of grunt, sort of like a series of short grunts, when they are pursuing a doe that is in heat. It's a signal for the doe to stop running away, so that he can mount her. This can attract big bucks who want to knock breeding bucks out of the way, and take the mount themselves.

Finally, females that are in heat will make the sort of bleating noise similar to the bleat that fawns make. This lets the bucks know they are ready to mate. Some hunters use this deer call to lure unsuspecting bucks.

Tracking Deer

There are two ways to use deer tracks. The first way, is to identify deer paths, and try to follow them back to the deer beds. The second way to use deer tracks, is to find actual deer hoof prints, and try to determine from what type of deer it was, either a doe or a buck, which direction it was heading, and how recently it was there.

Deer tracking can be difficult, or even impossible if conditions aren't ideal for it. For example, in thick hardwoods, moss-covered areas or rocky, mountainous terrain, deer aren't likely to leave many tracks, and you are probably wasting your time looking for them. But, if you are hunting in areas where deer are more likely to leave distinct prints in the mud, or if there is fresh snowfall, especially the first snowfall of the season when the deer are still abnormally active, deer tracking can be an effective technique.

A buck's track is generally larger than a doe's. Also, mature bucks tend to travel alone, so if there is evidence of only one animal, it is likely a buck. During the rut, bucks also tend to drag their hooves between tracks, so look for visible drag marks, especially in the snow.

To tell if it is a fresh print, take a close look at how sharp and defined it is. As a track ages, the sharp angles will become smoothed over and it will lose its definition. How quickly this happens depends on the weather, such as how much rain, snow, frost, sun, high temperature and wind the track has been exposed to. Think about the weather conditions in the past 24 to 48 hours, when examining your print to determine how the deterioration can be used to interpret its age. If it is raining out, the tracks

will tend to stand out, since the ground will be softer. If the track is already full of water, it may be several hours old. A good tip is to make your own print using a stick, right next to the buck print, and compare the two. If your print has a sharpness that is similar to the deer's track, then it is probably a fresh track.

Once you identify a buck's prints, the next step is to determine if they were left by a buck worth following. The first thing to notice is its size. Generally speaking, the older the buck is, the bigger the track will be.

Tracking Your Deer

If it's a fresh print from a big buck, the hunt is on. Generally, you will want to move at the same pace as the buck. When a buck is traveling, it tends to move in a straight line. Move in a line directing straight out from where the print is pointing, and look for additional prints. If there is fresh snowfall or the ground is moist and it's a fresh print, it should be relatively easy to pick them up. The buck will likely be moving fast, since it may have been startled by you. So, you will want to move fast, but quietly. If the tracks start to meander back around, it means the buck was probably searching for a place to bed, or it could simply be grazing.

Avoid walking directly on the buck's prints. You may need to backtrack later, if you lose his trail. Instead, walk off to the side a little. Also, bucks tend to watch their back trail, so if you are right on top of their prints, they are more likely to see you and bolt. A better idea is to stay in the shadows as much as possible, or in the tree line, so it's less likely the buck will spot you.

And, don't just look at the tracks, look for the buck itself. A pair of high-powered binoculars will help you see into and through cover. If you do suddenly come upon a buck, and it spooks, you could try to get your shot off. But, if he's running away, an arrow in the hindquarters probably isn't going to kill him. Another option is to wait about a half an hour, then begin tracking your buck again, in the hopes that he has calmed down.

If you find your buck, and there's still some distance between you, you can attempt to stalk him for the shot. Remember - try to keep the sun behind you, the wind at your face, and to move as quietly as possible.

Following Your Deer After Its Been Shot

Although not every hunter is going to be a buck tracker, every hunter will need to track his or her deer after it has been shot. You can simplify this process by following a few simple tips.

Try to put your arrow in the area just behind the front shoulder blade, about a third of the way down. The quickest way to kill a buck is to shoot it through the heart and lungs. This target area is pretty large. And, if you have been practicing and the distance is not too great, you have a much better chance of killing your buck, if you shoot it here.

Your buck will drop quickly, if you shoot it directly through the spine or windpipe. This will save you the trouble of tracking it. But, this takes a lot of skill. If you shoot your buck in the neck without severing the spine or damaging the windpipe, it's highly likely he will survive, and that's the last you will ever see of him.

Wherever you shoot the deer, make a note of where on the animal you shot it. As your arrow penetrates the buck, there will probably be a blood splatter that tells you. If you hit a leg or backside, the buck will run away, and may even survive. But, if you hit it in the chest, in most cases, it will run a short distance into the woods, before collapsing and bleeding out.

Don't run into the woods after the buck right away! If you made a bad shot, and didn't kill it, the buck is not going to be very happy. It may turn on you. If your shot was a good one, just wait 15 to 30 minutes. This gives the deer a chance to lie down and die. If you start following it right away, the adrenaline rush will enable the deer to run much farther than it normally would.

When tracking your buck, it's easier to follow its blood trail, rather than its hoof marks. That's because a wounded animal will run into areas with a lot of vegetation to improve its chances of hiding. This makes it difficult to find hoof marks. Blood, on the other hand, should be fairly easy to spot. You also can look for breaks in the brush, and listen for the sound of kicking or gasping.

If the buck is down, but still alive when you come upon it, wait a few minutes before approaching it. In some cases, the animal will jump up, and run away. If you approach too soon, it may even kick or charge at you. If after a period of time, the buck does not get up, but is still breathing, put an arrow through a kill zone, such as the heart or the lungs. When the animal stops breathing for several minutes, it is probably safe to approach it, and begin field dressing.

Bow Hunting Methods

Because the effective range of a bow is considerably shorter than that of a rifle, bow hunting requires the hunter to get much closer to the deer than if they were using a rifle and scope. Because of this additional challenge, bow hunting is most often done from an elevated platform or stand, where the deer are far less likely to see or smell you. Skilled hunters looking for more of a challenge may still prefer to stalk their prey from the ground level. Both methods require the hunter to be absolutely silent and still, otherwise the deer will be alerted to the hunter's presence.

Hunting from Stands

Because you need to get quite close to your buck in order to shoot it with a bow and arrow, the most effective hunting method is to use a tree stand.

These are perches that are placed in trees, about 10 to 15 feet above the area where you think the buck will wander. Bucks normally don't look up, because they don't have many natural predators that hunt them from above. So, from this elevated position, it's fairly easy to get a clean shot, as long as you are patient enough to wait for it. The higher the stand, the farther the shot, not to mention the farther you have to fall. In most cases, 10 to 15 feet is plenty far enough to put you above the whitetail buck's line of sight, and perhaps more importantly, smell.

Hunting deer with a bow and arrow from a tree stand is all about finding the best location, which is where the bucks are most likely to be.

Then, you'll need to set up your stand and wait. If you have done your research during your scouting, most of your work is already done.

You will want to set up your stand as close to the deer's food supply as possible. This can vary by what food is in season. Look for whatever is ripest. If the apples are ripe, look for an apple tree. If the acorns are falling, look for an oak tree. Food sources are important to all hunters, but especially to bow hunters. Try to set your stand up over, or off to one side of the food source. This will give you the best opportunity for bagging your buck. Pay attention to the wind direction, and the angle the sun will be at during the time you expect the deer to come in, as well. You want the wind at your face and the sun behind you, if at all possible.

Successfully shooting a buck with a bow and arrow requires you to be fairly close to the deer. As a result, you will have to be extremely patient, quiet and still, as you wait in your stand for the buck to appear. Keep absolutely quiet. Don't bring cell phones or radios, even those with ear pieces, because the deer will hear them. Any type of noise at all may spook the deer. If it's a little windy, and the leaves are rustling in the trees, this can be an effective audio camouflage for you.

Because of their height, tree stands present a danger to the hunter. If you are not careful, it's easy to fall out of them. From that height, a fall can cause severe damage to a hunter, or even be fatal. Today's tree stands are very safe, when used correctly. Make sure you read and follow all of the manufacturer's guidelines on how to use your stand properly, including proper maintenance. You don't want to get all the way out in the woods only to discover that your tree stand is missing parts, or is otherwise unusable. It's also a good idea to test drive your tree stand before you plan to use it for hunting, so there are no unexpected surprises.

The test drive should include using your stand on a tree close to the ground, before you take it out into the woods. This will help you become more adept with its functions and technicalities. It will also improve your own comfort and security levels. It's a good idea to put all of your safety equipment in a container, and keep the container with the stand, whenever you aren't using it. This will help prevent you from losing key safety equipment.

You should wear a safety harness, preferably a full body harness, at all times, when hunting from elevated tree stands. If you fall while wearing a full body harness, your body will be facing straight up. If you are properly attached to the tree, you would fall less than a foot. This will allow you to lift yourself back into your stand. Never use a rope to replace your safety belt section that is attached to the tree.

Never carry your hunting equipment with you while climbing. A better idea is to use a rope to lift or lower your gear. If you are using a crossbow, make sure it is unloaded before lifting or lowering it to the ground. Make sure your rope is sturdy enough to withstand the weight of your gear, otherwise it may break or damage your equipment.

If you are using a permanent tree stand, make sure you check it every year before hunting. Don't assume it is in the same operational condition it was in last hunting season. A year's worth of exposure to the elements can easily damage a permanent tree stand.

It's a good idea not to use homemade tree stands, whenever possible. Not only are these stands hard to relocate, if deer change their movement patterns, but these stands often fall apart rapidly, and often are unsafe, even when newly built.

Remember that weakened wooden steps and stands can cripple, or even kill you. Even if they're not weakened, the steps get slippery with rain or snow. Follow the instructions and recommended procedures when installing commercial stands. Be sure to check the straps and chains, every time you use them.

Know the rules: If you are hunting on public land, in most states, it is illegal to put nails or bolts into trees, or to build permanent tree stands and blinds. Obviously, on private land you always want to get the landowner's permission before you cut branches, trees or alter their landscape in any way. In many cases, they may already have stands in place that you can use.

A tree stand not only gives the advantage of putting you above the buck, where he is not likely to look for you, and where he is less likely to smell you, but gives you a panoramic view of the surrounding forest, as well. This allows you to track your buck's movement, and look for other deer in the area.

Bow hunting from Blinds

Far more hunters prefer tree stands to blinds, and for good reason. Given its height, a tree stand essentially makes you invisible to the buck's vision and smell.

A blind is a ground-level structure that allows hunters to either hide inside of it or behind it. The blind is usually covered in camouflage, such as twigs, leaves, corn stalks or branches. They take a lot more skill on the part of the bow hunter. Perhaps this is why some hunters prefer them.

While hunters using tree stands will usually only stay in their elevated platforms for two to five hours, hunters using blinds typically stay in their blinds for much longer periods. One of the reasons for this is because blinds allow you to be more comfortable than tree stands, as you wait for your buck to appear. With a blind, you have some freedom to stretch and spread out, which is something a tree stand doesn't offer.

Setting up a blind can take some time, and many hunters devote a lot of energy to getting their blinds just right. Blending into your surroundings is of critical importance with a hunting blind. Once you set up your blind, you want to conceal using brush, or whatever is in the vicinity naturally. Make sure it is not only perfectly camouflaged, but free of human odors, as well. This is because being at ground level makes you more likely to be detected by the hypersensitive sense of smell the whitetails have.

Some blinds have doors or windows that allow you to control how much of your odor leaves the blind. This can be an advantage over the tree stand.

The blind also takes away the advantage of being above the deer. Shooting down onto your buck can give you an easier target, than shooting from ground level. So, if you plan on blind hunting, you definitely want to make sure your archery skills are sharp.

If you are going to use a blind, it's a good idea to set it up early in the season, so the deer herd can become accustomed to its presence. If it just shows up one day in the middle of their environment, whitetails will naturally be suspicious. But, if they are given a few weeks or months to get used to it, by the time you hunt from your blind, it will be all but invisible to them.

Still Hunting: Your Best Bet?

Still-hunting whitetail deer is much more challenging than either hunting from tree stands or a deer blind. With still-hunting, the bow hunter actually moves through the woods on foot attempting to locate his buck. It requires great skill. You must move swiftly, yet silently in getting into a shooting position, once you finally locate your buck.

Still-hunting certainly takes work, both in preparation and in execution. But, for many hunters, it is considered the elite hunting experience. If you can master still-hunting, then you can enjoy a challenging and rewarding style of hunting that not too many people can master.

It requires great skill and practice to be able to still-hunt successfully. If you simply tramp through the woods, looking for deer to shoot with your bow and arrow, you will broadcast your presence to every deer in the area, causing them to run away where you will never find them. You will also put them all on high alert, so they will be less likely to be found by other hunters, as well.

The first key to still-hunting is keeping the correct pace. Every time you lift your foot and put it back down in the woods, it makes a noise that can be heard by whitetails. Successful still-hunters move at the pace of a turtle, taking one slow step, and then waiting 60 seconds to observe the woods around them.

Humans are one of the only species that take regular, even steps when they walk. Most other animals, including deer, hardly ever take more than a few steps in a row. When you walk at your normal pace, you create a noise pattern that is easily heard by every animal in the forest. Still-hunters should move like a deer that is on high alert: slow, precise and cautious.

Where you place your feet is as important as how you place them. Still-hunters should avoid a forest floor that is littered with crunchy dried leaves and twigs, as this will announce their presence. Instead, look for a melting morning frost, or a smooth, grassy floor that will absorb the sounds of your movement. Another idea is to move when your steps will be camouflaged by other sounds, such as wind or rain.

Effective still-hunters also spend long periods of time not moving at all. These periods can last from one to twenty minutes. Obviously, still-hunting requires a great amount of patience.

In order to avoid detection while still-hunting, try moving in a smooth, gliding motion. Avoid any kind of quick, erratic movements. Never turn your head quickly, and don't raise your arms suddenly. If you're within sight of a deer, you should never move when a deer has its head up. Move only when it is feeding, with its head down. When you spot a buck, your mind

will be telling you to take the shot, but the only way you will succeed is if you maintain slow, flowing movements, as you bring up your bow for the shot.

With still-hunting, it's more important than ever to stay downwind of your prey. That's the only way the deer won't smell you, no matter how many odor masks you use. As still-hunters move through the woods, they are always aware of the wind direction, and will react to any changes in it. One helpful hint is to tie a short length of string to the tip of your bow. This will act as an air sock, and will constantly tell you wind direction and approximate speed.

Like any good scout, the still-hunter has done his or her reconnaissance homework, and is very familiar with the lay of the land. Knowing the wind direction is one thing, but being able to put yourself in an downwind position where there is likely to be a buck, is more of a challenge.

Deer can sense your presence with their ears, as easily as they can with their noses. And, even if you are downwind, sound carries a long distance in the woods. The whitetail's large ear size and shape capture even the slightest noise that is out of place, and this puts it on high alert.

To protect against being heard, make sure your clothing is quiet. There are specially designed quiet fabrics developed just for hunting. Try walking around in the woods, before you are in an actual hunting situation, to test your clothing for noise. Put on the gear you plan to use during your hunt, find a quiet place, and move the way you will when you are still-hunting. In this way, you can identify your noisiest clothes, and modify or even replace them, before it's time for your hunt.

Your boots can also give you away, especially if you're wearing heavy boots with stiff soles. A better idea is to wear boots with soft soles.

As you slowly move through the forest, it's inevitable that you will make a mistake, and snap a branch or rustle some brush, which will probably alert any deer in the area of your presence. Sitting still for several minutes may help the deer to forget about your mistake, if they haven't already bolted out of the area.

Use auditory cover to camouflage your movements, whenever possible. This can include the wind moving the branches, birds chirping, water flowing over rocks, or even falling rain. All of these can give you enough time to get into a position where you can take your shot.

When still-hunting, it's necessary to wear full camouflage. If you must wear orange due to regulations, choose hunter orange clothing, with a camouflage pattern. Or, you can combine different types of camouflage clothing, to make yourself less visible to deer. Don't forget to take into account the fact that the vegetation at the level of your legs will be different than that at your chest level. Try to blend in, as much as possible.

Don't forget to camouflage your skin as well. A buck can spot your face or hands from a mile away. Always use camouflaged gloves to cover your hands. A camouflaged handkerchief can cover your neck. And, you can purchase camouflage cream to cover your entire face.

Finally, once you have mastered the art of preventing the deer from seeing you, the next step is to master the art of seeing the deer. Whitetails are very adept at staying hidden, so you have to know what you are looking for. Focus on spotting parts of deer. A deer's back will be a horizontal line, which will stand out from the many vertical lines of the trees in the woods. Look for the twitch of a nose or an ear, or the movement of a leg, or an antler, instead of looking for a whole deer body.

Different colors can give away a deer's location. Keep an eye out for white spots moving through the trees. This is because deer not only have white on the undersides of their tails, they can have white patches on their throats, and around their eyes.

Remember how tall the deer are. You are missing out on an important view, if you do all of your looking at your own eye level. While you're hunting you should stop, and gradually kneel down, to take a look under the brush once in a while. This is closer to the height of a deer, and frequently gives you a different perspective through the undergrowth.

Spot and Stalk Bow Hunting

Spot and stalk bow hunting is similar to still-hunting, and many of the same skill sets are used, including camouflaging yourself against the deer's sight and smell.

Spot and stalk hunters frequently wait until a buck beds down, before going in for the shot. But, it is also possible to hunt the animal while it is moving through the woods. Both ways offer an exciting and fun way to enhance your bow hunting experience.

Time is not on your side in stalking. If you spot a deer from a long distance, you'll need to plan your stalk quickly. Then, as fast and quietly as you can, using natural cover to camouflage your movements, get close enough to the deer for a shot.

You need to be especially quiet, when you're getting close to within shooting range. Be careful of stepping on twigs and leaves, along with anything else on the ground that will make noise and give you away.

You probably won't be able to get closer than 25 yards from the deer, so your skill as an archer is critical. Your equipment should be capable of being accurate at that distance. Today's high speed bows allow shots as far as 50 yards. But, the best equipment in the world is worthless, if your skill level is not where it should be. Remember to practice, practice, practice!

One other thing spot and stalk hunting requires is endurance. You may have to cover a few miles in a short amount of time. If this isn't something you can do with ease, you'll need to get in better shape in the off-season. You may want to take up running, biking, and even weightlifting, to improve your endurance.

The Rut

The rut is a crazy time for both whitetails and for hunters. For the deer, they pretty much lose their minds, and will abandon nearly all of their normal behavior patterns, as they compete and search for a mate. For the hunter, it's the perfect time to take advantage of the buck's biology, which betrays its normal cautionary habits, and for a few short weeks, makes it very vulnerable.

Deer Mating Season

During the rut, whitetails' natural urge to breed, and defend their territory causes them to let their guard down. Bucks you will never see throughout much of the year will suddenly become more visible. There are a wide range of strategies and tendencies that bow hunters can use to entice a buck to within shooting range. From interpreting rubs and scrapes to making mock scrapes, rattling and calling, using decoys and even scents, the rut presents a unique time of increased vulnerability for the buck, making it the best time of year to bag your buck.

The pre-rut and post-rut phases are the most vulnerable times of the year for whitetail. The whitetail rut occurs during a fairly consistent timeframe from year to year, even though there will be slight variations from one geographic area to the next.

The pre-rut, which occurs in late October, is when deer are preparing for the breeding phase. Bucks actively travel their territory in search of doe groups. This exercise serves to inventory and monitor resident females.

Bucks systematically begin to leave perimeter rubs and scrapes, leaving a physical indicator of their presence and stature.

By the first week of November, the peak-rut has begun. This is the most concentrated breeding phase, when the majority of does go into estrus for a 48 to 72 hour period.

Post-rut, which occurs from the fourth week in November through December, is the time immediately following the first estrus, in which bucks are still traveling in search of un-bred does.

Buck Behavior during the Rut

Mature bucks become aggressive, and actively roam in wider and wider circles in search of female mates. During the rut, the bucks focus more on chasing does, than on food. They can eat as little as half their normal intake of food, and lose up to a third of their body weight, during this time. As the rut approaches, bucks will be showing off their newly-grown antlers, and communicating how dominant they are, compared to other males.

It is during the pre-rut that the bucks will begin "signposting" by leaving scrapes and rubs on the ground and trees. These indicators, which the bucks make even more evident by urinating on them, tell does and other males that the territory belongs to that buck, and that he will make a good mating partner.

At this point, bucks will also begin sparring, locking antlers and pushing each other, until one buck backs down. This indicates submission to a dominant male. Once a buck achieves dominance, he will communicate his position in the deer hierarchy by staring down the other males. In some cases, other bucks will choose to challenge this dominance, and the process begins again.

Doe Behavior During the Rut

As the daylight hours shorten, changes occur in the does' reproductive organs, as they prepare for breeding and pregnancy. When they are in heat, they will emit a musk that tells males they are ready to mate. A doe may also urinate on a buck's scrape, to let him know that she is ready to breed.

Most hunters believe that during the rut, the easiest way to find a buck is to find the does. Then, wait for the bucks come to the does. This is usually excellent advice. But, not every doe will have a buck trailing her. As you observe the does, if one is casually walking along without showing a lot of interest in the trail behind her, there probably isn't a buck trailing her. This is when you should focus your attention on another doe.

But, if the doe is spending a lot of time looking back up the trail where she came from or off to the side, and especially if her ears are perked in that direction, it usually means there is another deer in the vicinity. Although it might just be her fawns or other does, more likely than not, it's a buck.

It can take up to an hour or more for a buck to finally move out into the open. Despite his passionate excitement, the buck will still want to make absolutely sure that there are no predators in the area, before stepping out in the open. If you simply have enough patience to sit quietly and not give away your position, you are in one of the best positions to bag your buck.

How to Find Deer During the Rut

You have to consider where to find the whitetail deer during parts of the rut season. Bucks and does react differently during each part of the season. During the pre-rut, the deer are getting primed for action. During the actual rut, the deer are in the heat of the moment. Post-rut, the deer are slowing down, with the exception of some of the bucks that are still looking for some action.

During the pre-rut, the bucks start to figure out they need to get busy finding does or they will miss out. They are grunting and chasing after all the sounds, so they don't miss out on the opportunity to find a willing partner. This is the time pull out your own grunt game call.

Peak rut can be a slow time. The does are in season, and the bucks are actively servicing them. They do not usually respond to your calls. During post-rut season, the tides tend to turn. The does are usually satisfied at this time, and the bucks are reluctant to give up their short-lived nirvana. You can kick up your game calling and rattling during this period to catch the post rut bucks, who are still looking to mate. They're distracted enough to be looking for more does.

The best time to use game calling and rattling is pre-rut and post-rut seasons. Do not mistake the decline of activity as the end of rut season. It can actually be the opposite. You want to keep up your game calling and/or rattling up, and reap the benefits of bagging a buck that is desperately looking for that last willing doe.

How to Maximize the Benefits of the Rut

During the rut, your best bet is to hunt as much as possible. That's because during the rut, bucks will be on the move all day long, and in constant search for a doe in heat. They are getting hot and bothered, and will travel throughout their territory to inspect each doe for breeding readiness. You can count on this natural process year after year. During the rut, bucks will often be less wary, and extremely focused on finding a doe to breed with, during the mid-day hours.

You can enhance your chances of getting a buck during the rut by setting up some scents. Scents work exceptionally well during the rut. Attractants perform best when applied to and around scrapes and rubs, especially doe-in-estrus and dominant buck scents.

You can also create mock scrapes near traditional primary scrapes. These show the dominant buck that another buck is not afraid to move into his territory, establishing a challenge. When you spread doe-in-estrus urine over the mock scrape, you give the added suggestion that does are interested in the scrape.

Advanced Bow Hunting Techniques

Whitetail deer are wise to the ways of man. During hunting season, with the exception of the rut, they are hyper-cautious and will constantly alert to any type of danger, including sound, smell and sight. In this chapter, we'll discuss some more advanced techniques that will help you to bag your buck.

There are a lot of effective techniques you can use to attract deer to your stand. But, you need to be aware that there isn't one single technique that works to bag a deer every time you go out on a hunt. Depending on the time of the year and other factors, you should change up the use of any or all of these techniques. You should not over use or rely on only one technique.

The first to consider is using bait. Deer can be lured to your stand by leaving feeders filled with foods they enjoy, such as corn, apples and grains. When you set up a stand over one of these types of bait methods, it's relatively easy to shoot them. The problem comes when the feeders attract all kinds of deer, not just the mature bucks you want. So, in some cases, feeders can be counter-productive.

Then there is the ethical dilemma of using bait. Some states outlaw use of bait altogether. Some older hunters, who prefer the old-fashioned ways of hunting, also discourage bait use. But, is there really a difference between setting your stand up over a feeder you set up and setting it up over a natural feeding area, such as an acorn-rich white oak or an apple tree? It's up to you, as an individual hunter, to decide.

Another idea is to plant a food plot with vegetation that deer enjoy. This is basically a little garden in the woods that deer can return to and feed on, from time to time. Some of the best crops include clovers, ryegrass, brassicas, soybeans, alfalfa and winter wheat.

Salt licks and mineral blocks are another effective method to attracting deer. Deer are actively seeking to replace lost sodium by consuming more salt. A salt or mineral lick can help provide sodium, phosphorous, iron, zinc, and other minerals the deer require. When you leave a salt block near the area you intend to put up your stand, not only are you providing these needed nutrients to the deer population, but you are training the deer to return to that area again and again.

There are two easy ways to build a salt or mineral lick. With the first method, select the area where you want to create your lick. Then, remove branches, leaves and other debris from the dirt. Simply pour loose salt on top of the ground, and use a stick or twig to mix the salt into the dirt.

The second method involves buying a salt block or mineral lick. These are relatively inexpensive. After you haul it out to the spot you want to place your stand, simply set it on top of the ground. When it rains, some of the salt will dissolve into the dirt. Don't worry about this. It will keep the deer coming back to that spot, looking for the salt suspended in the soil, which will be there for years to come.

You can also use liquid formulas, gels and food flavored blocks to attract deer to your stand area. These products are very much like salt licks, but add a little smell to their magnetism. These attractants have a number of the minerals deer are searching for, with some aromas of the foods they crave added in. With a liquid or gel, all you need to do is clear an area on the ground, and pour out the attractant. The ground will soak up the minerals and flavor, and attract the deer, even after the product has dissolved. The flavored blocks work on the same principle. Most sporting goods stores offer them in an assortment of flavors, including apple, corn and acorn. They can also be purchased online.

If you use bait, it's a good idea to set up deer cameras, so you can monitor how the deer are responding to your bait. If you are using bait and/or cameras, make sure they are not placed on private property without the owner's permission. And, if they are on public lands, you will probably want to camouflage them pretty well, so somebody else doesn't find them and take them.

Luring deer to your stand site by providing attractive odors is one way of increasing your chances of bagging a trophy buck. Another is to eliminate odors that will alert the deer to your presence.

Whitetail deer have an incredibly well developed sense of smell, and can detect the odor of man and other predators from up to a mile away. If they smell something they don't like or can't identify, in most cases they will disappear into the woods, eliminating your chance of bagging your buck, at least for the time being. While staying downwind from your prey is always a recommended tactic, another is to mask your odor, so the deer doesn't think you are a predator.

One of the easiest ways to mask your scent is by washing your clothes in no scent detergent. Then, you'll need to store them outdoors or in scent-free containers. Make a practice of washing one load of clothes just for your hunting apparel, like coats, hats, gloves, socks and even the underwear you plan to wear into the woods. Use a scent-free laundry soap made for this purpose, to eliminate all odors in your clothes. Instead of throwing them in the dryer, hang your clothes on an outdoor clothes line and let them air dry. If you can't hang them outside, get some dryer sheets especially made for hunting clothes, which will help mask your odor in the woods. When your clothes are dry, keep them in an airtight container, or hang them outside, to help keep the human scents such as cooking food, dust caused by dry skin, and dogs, locked out. A large ziplock bag will work in most cases.

Your local sporting goods store will also sell clothing that contains activated carbon. These are effective in hiding your scent, because the carbon keeps your scent inside your clothing.

Your hunting boots need to be made woods-ready, as well. Rubber boots are best for hunting, because they have almost zero ability to hold household odors. They'll also keep your feet dry. Before you head out, make sure you wash your boots with a scent-free soap. You can also purchase a no-scent spray, to help cover your body odor. It's a good idea not to apply it until you are leaving your truck, just before you are heading into the woods, otherwise it might not be as effective. Like your clothing, your hunting boots should be stored in airtight containers, to avoid contamination by human scents.

Finally, your body odor needs to be covered up, and this time deodorant is not what you want! Shower before you go hunting, using a scent-free soap and shampoo. If you use body washes and shampoos that have fruity fragrances, you may as well carry a bullhorn and announce your presence to the deer as you walk through the woods.

You can also get scent-free deodorant, or you may consider not wearing any at all, at least on the day of your hunt. It should go without saying that you shouldn't wear any cologne, perfume or scented hair care products.

Don't forget that your tree stand, bow and arrow, and any other equipment that you bring into the woods also needs to be scent free. You can use the same no-scent spray or cover scent spray you used on yourself, on all of the accessories you carry in.

If you're looking for deer, one of the things you need to find out is what they're eating. Deer must eat all year. They eat differently in each season. During the hunting season is the time we are most concerned with right now.

Early in the season, the deer are gorging themselves, making the most of the year's harvest time. They know they need to up their fat reserves, so they can make it through the lean season. Finding all the ripe feeding areas is a good strategy for bagging your deer, during the early season. You should look for those oak trees dropping their acorns or the apple trees with fruit in them, as well as fields of corn or soybeans.

When the rut is on, you're instinct may be to want to switch to the rub lines, scrapes or rattling exclusively. But, you may want to rethink this. During this time, the bucks have only one thing on their minds, and that is does. Does are not out looking for bucks. They are looking for food. They

know the harsher season is coming on, and they are still trying to find food sources. Remember, find the does! This is what the bucks are looking for, too. So, find local food sources, and you will be increasing your chances of bagging that buck.

Late season is the best time to hunt for bucks, using their feeding patterns. The bucks are in survival mode by this time, and with the extreme cold, they need to eat to keep up their fat reserves. Plus, most of the other hunters have given up by now, and you'll have the woods to yourself. Find the protein food sources, and you will have the prime hunting spots.

Using Deer Decoys

Another great tactic during the rut is to set up doe, or even small buck decoys. These are becoming increasingly popular. The practice of using decoys for whitetail deer has been around for years. This technique combined with several of the other hunting techniques we have discussed, can enhance your chances of seeing bucks, and add excitement to your hunt.

Decoying is a way to draw a deer out of hiding. Here are a couple of things to remember:

Placing your decoy takes a little research. You want to consider finding pathways that are well traveled by the deer, and eating areas in the woods.

Do not over use the decoys in one area. Be sure to take your decoys in when you're not hunting. The deer will become used to them and ignore

them, or even avoid them. If you are in an area that you see the same deer over and over, then the deer will stop reacting to the decoys, because they will figure out they are not real.

Bucks will generally come at a deer head on, if a buck decoy is used. With this information in mind, do not place the decoy facing your stand. This will make for a tough shot. You want to place the decoy at an angle that will give you the best chances for a good shot.

If setting up multiple decoys, do not have them standing in the same direction. This type of grouping in nature usually means something is wrong, and the buck is alerted. He will not approach, as he will want to avoid the danger.

You should spray or wipe down your new decoy with no scent, and then store it outdoors. Treat it again with this spray, before each use. Spray or pour deer urine or scent around the decoy, or on a rag tied to the tail. Avoid putting these scents directly on the decoy.

Scent is a huge factor when hunting, do everything you can to avoid bringing in any foreign scents that could potentially drive the deer away.

Using Deer Calls

When using whitetail game calling techniques, remember that as with all techniques, they do not work all of the time. The deer just may be ignoring your calls, instead of identifying you and causing alarm. It is important that you do not get discouraged and stop using calls. You need to build on your call usage, to add to your bow hunting success.

As a bow hunter, you try to put yourself in the best location possible, and then wait for the deer to come within shooting range. If you haven't tried calling in deer yet, these tips can add excitement and success to your hunt.

At different times of the rut, bucks will respond to either aggressive grunting or rattling, as well as doe bleats. They believe that it is either two bucks fighting over a doe in heat, or a battle for dominance.

If you make only buck sounds, when using deer calls, you might be missing out on some action. Remember that during the rut, the bucks are on the hunt for does. What you need to know to use this to your advantage is that when a buck is responding to a doe, that buck is not going to be on as high of an alert. As he comes within range of your arrow, he does not believe that he is heading into a fight situation. He thinks he's going to get a different kind of action! This puts him in a more vulnerable position.

The thing you need to remember is the biggest and smartest bucks are not fooled into coming out of hiding with aggressive calls. If the trophy buck you are after was the aggressive type, then he may have been harvested easily by another hunter, earlier in the season. The true trophy bucks stay alive by keeping in hiding, not by being fooled with fake rutting noises. Don't get me wrong, there are plenty of big-racked deer that will be fooled by these sounds, or we wouldn't be discussing these techniques here.

If a buck comes in looking for a fight, like when coming into the sound of rattling antlers, he is most likely on high alert. When the deer are on high alert, not only are you more likely to get busted before you can get a shot off, they are more likely to "string jump," or react to the sound of the release, and drop out of the arrow's path. I've seen deer drop 6-8 inches in a fraction of a second, when my arrow was released.

Not every deer you shoot at with your bow is going to jump the bowstring, but it's a common enough occurrence that you may want to take steps to avoid it. By using doe calls (and scents) to lure the bucks in, instead of the more aggressive buck calls, you may catch the buck in a frame of mind less susceptible to its self-preservation instincts.

You may also want to consider upgrading your bow. Modern compound bows are capable of speeds over 300 feet per second. This gets the arrow to the target 30 to 40 percent quicker than an older model, which may only be in the 180 to 200 fps range. The goal is to give the deer less time to react.

Keep Sharp during the Off Season

Bow hunting season for deer generally runs from September until January, depending on the rules in your state. That leaves February through August for perfecting your skills. Most major urban and suburban areas have archery ranges, where bow hunters can practice their shooting year-round. But, even if there is no organized range near where you live, one of the biggest advantages of archery is that it can be done practically anywhere.

Deer shaped targets are a great way to get yourself accustomed to shooting at bucks. Practice from different distances and from different heights, using your tree stand until you master all of them. As your skills improve, focus on shooting the deer in various parts of its body. As you become more adept at using your bow, you may surprise yourself with how accurate you can become.

As a bow hunter, practicing your shooting on smaller, faster animals, such as rabbits, is a good way to build up your skill level and confidence, before heading out on a deer hunt. Plus, rabbits can be good eating, giving further purpose to your hunt.

Enjoying a Lifetime of Bow hunting

Bow hunting is a way to enhance your whitetail hunting experience. It brings you physically closer to the buck at the time for harvesting, and closer to the experience of hunting with a bow and arrow that has been part of human history for thousands of years.

As you begin to experience a few seasons of bow hunting, the techniques outlined in this guide will become second nature, especially as you interact with other hunters, and get more into your sport. You will find the equipment that you like best, and you will become more adept at using your bow and arrow.

Despite having a lot of knowledge about the effects of weather on deer movement, the types of foods deer prefer, how to mask your body odor, and how to keep a deer from spotting you, none of this is worth anything, unless you have the skill to take the shot when the moment presents itself.

And, the only way you can be assured that you can successfully bag a buck with your bow and arrow is to practice, practice, practice. And then, practice some more.

Bow hunting is one of the most pleasurable sports anybody can participate in. Not only does it get you out into the open air where you can admire the splendor of nature's bounty, but it challenges you to adapt to the rugged requirements of the natural world. No matter where you live in North America, it's a sure bet that you are close to a scenic and awe-inspiring wilderness, still untouched by the hands of man. Bow hunting gives you a reason to visit these places and appreciate them for what they are.

Bow hunting also has the added benefit of putting you in touch with man's history. From the dawn of time, bows and arrows were among the very first tools man created with his own hands, distinguishing him from the lower forms of animals. How inspiring it is to use these exact same tools thousands of years later for both sport and providing food for our families. It's like reaching across time and coming face-to-face with our primal selves, something that is not possible with rifle hunting.

That's because bow hunting takes the essence of hunting, and boils it down to something that is more pure, closer to the true human condition. Man, armed with simply a bow and arrow, heading out into the wild to stalk and hunt big game offers a kind of honor and clarity that other forms of hunting do not.

For everybody who bow hunts, the experience of hunting deer with a bow and arrow can be a profoundly important part of life. There are few feelings more empowering than bringing down a trophy buck, using weapons that are dependent only on your own strength and skill. Preserving these skills by teaching them to the next generation ensures that the lessons of our human history will carry on.

Good Hunting.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Andrew Saari has been hunting deer in Northwestern Wisconsin for over three decades. He has a website that is full of deer hunting articles, tips, deer pictures and videos.

Check out the latest at: www.whitetailtactics.net

And grab a copy of the other books in the Whitetail Tactics series:

Deer Hunting Guide: Whitetail Tactics

How to Hunt Deer: Whitetail Tactics

Acknowledgements:

Cover photo by EEI_Tony/bigstockphoto.com

Bow and arrow illustrations by: Sviatogor/bigstockphoto.com

Deer and tracks illustration by: Dr.Alex/bigstockphoto.com

Bowhunter nocking and drawing illustration by: 8thwonder/bigstockphoto.com

Deer tracks in the snow photo by: Sandilynn/bigstockphoto.com