How To Plant Your

First Raised Bed Garden

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Table of Contents

How To Plant Your First Raised Bed Garden

Lasagna Method in Soil Filling:

Instructions on how to build an Elevated Wooden Raised Bed Garden:

Stone Raised Bed Garden

Here is an instruction on how to grow Carrots on you Raised Bed Garden:

Maintaining a Raised Bed Garden

Disadvantages to Using Raised Bed Gardens

How To Plant Your First Raised Bed Garden

Since most places have bad rocky and chemically abused soil we need to build raised bed gardens to grow herbs, abundant healthy vegetables and other plants. First things first you must be fully committed in doing so since this project will take a lot of time and effort. Plus plants needs all the care they can get, so in order to have teeming harvest it should be started with great passion and dedication. Plan what kind of plant you would like to grow in your raised bed garden, most people grow flowers which they used it to beautify a garden or a lawn, some love to grow vegetables and herbs for them to gather fresh crops for salad greens or for cooking, choices are nearly innumerable.

So what is Raised Bed Garden?

Basically raised bed garden is built above the ground and where you absolutely get full control of the soil texture and other elements in it. Most raised bed gardens constructed on top of native soil about six inches or higher, some built elevated with stand about 2-3 feet above the ground. These gardens can be enclosed with lumber, stones, those commercially built containers, and other materials that can embraced soil to keep bed intact.In a raised bed garden, you can growalmost anything; herbs and vegetables to perennials and shrubs. It is used widely to decorate a dull place which has no access to natural abundant soil like in those condos or when you live in a big city where limited or poorly mixed, and chemically treated soil is the only option you have. Then you can still have a garden and grow almost anything you like.

Most Advantages in Building or Owning a Raised Bed Garden

1.       Full access to rich soil in places where planting is almost not possible due to some elements like rocky ground or abused soil. You can use soil that has basically a neutral pH unless you add something to change it (because you're filling it).

2.       Fewer weeds. When used with weed-blocking fabric at the bottom, unwanted weeds are rarely an issue. Those that do make their way in (airborne, or perhaps some volunteer tomatoes from last year’s crop) are easy to spot and pull out while they’re still tiny.

3.       Better water retention. Especially when used with loose organic soil mix it can retain water well, never gets soggy. Working with such soil is an ease.

4.       More growing space. In those areas where soil is limited due to cemented areas and such.

5.       Warmer soil earlier in the season. Temperate more quickly making it possible to plant and grow plants earlier in spring time.

6.       Soil stays balmy longer for extended season.

7.       Soil will not be washed away and can avoid erosion since beds are framed in a raised bed garden.

8.       It drains effortlessly making drainage better in areas with only clay soils available.

Lasagna Method in Soil Filling:

This method of filling the garden bed helps plants especially vegetables and herbs to grow healthier.  It is mainly composed of;

a.       “Green mulch” made from mixed leaves, grass (lawn clippings, straw), and peat moss

b.      Nutrient rich compost (or dry organic fertilizers)

c.       Top soil or loose soil with pH level of 6.6–7.3

Basically you just have to put layer after layer of these components and you’ll have the richest soil to plant your favourite vegetables, fruits, herbs, perennials and other plants you want to grow. After putting the layers together it is needed to settle for everything to be able to mixed together atleast a day or two, frequently watering and cultivating the top soil.

Constructing Raised Bed Garden:

First is you need to have a visualization on how your raised bed garden will look like, how long it will be and how deep you wanted it to be. Since raised bed gardens basically built in an open-topped and open-bottomed it doesn’t take much to visualize the shape and the design. Unless you want it more complex with decorative posts, elevated stand, trellis for climbing plants, with mini greenhouse, different shape than the traditional rectangular one; try a triangular or octagonal or anything you please(that can good on flower gardens),  or you want it to have an irrigation system, then you need to sketch and layout your design. Measuring where you will build your own raised bed garden is mandatory. This will help you determine how much materials will cost you and if you will build more than one raised bed garden, this will serve as your guide for measurements of distance in between the beds, they need much distance like a meter from each sides this is for you to move with ease in taking care of your plants.

Wooden Raised Bed Garden

Now in order to build a wooden raised bed garden frame need of supplies like lumber, fastening and cross supports, and tools.

Frame Material:

For the lumber, the best choice cedar and cypress, it is by nature rot-resistant and resource of such wood is limitless. Western red cedar is widely used in most of outdoor projects; this kind of wood can last up to 10-15 years depending on the weather condition, though Vermont white cedar, Mahogany, Port Orford (yellow) cedar, Pine and Juniper can also be an excellent choice in constructing raised bed gardens. If lumber isn’t available in your place you can use synthetic wood, plastic, bricks, rocks, or numerous of other items or materials but of course as much as possible we will use natural materials for plants to be healthier. Non-wood materials will probably be your last resort.  If it is a vegetable garden do not use pressure treated wood and especially not railroad ties. The harmful chemicals will filtrate into the soil and into your vegetables which can be very unhealthy. Also other woods such as redwood, white oak (NOT red oak), mahogany, locust (heartwood), and narrawill also last long. So we must avoid as much as possible those chemically treated materials. It just makes sense with so many other options. Now if you have chosen your lumber get the measurements you want. Forexample you want to have 4 feet long bed, but bed shouldn’t be more than 4 feet wide, as you’ll have to reach the middle to pull off unwanted weeds and the like, and as for height, you can make it at least 8-10 inches high. Some folks want theirs to be 1-2 feet in height, but that’s an individual choice.Longer than 4 feet will need more post support in the middle to avoid bowing and to provide place in securing for cross-supports if you are using one.If raised bed garden is elevated be sure to secure the bottom well use a support of at least three wood planks long enough for stabilityat the bottom, this is to avoid ripping the boards when filling soil on the bed.

Other Materials:

You will need fastening and cross-supports, screws, deck screws or nails which are usually sold at the nearest hardware stores. Always buy those stainless ones; this is to avoid damaging the beds in the long run. Depending on the materials used and the thickness of the wood as well, use screws or nails that can support the frame very well. The important thing is that sides and joints will be tightly secured so it can stay together once soil is placed in.

Tools:

Hand saw,carpenter's level,angle-square, mallet (or sledge), hacksaw, drill and screwdriver.

Instructions for a simple4x4 foot square Wooden Raised Bed Garden:

1.       Start by figuring how large the bed raise will be for this instructional method we will be doing a 4x4 foot square. Rake and even out the terrain so that your raised bed garden will lie flat.

2.       Gather all materials and Tools needed for better access and to save time.

Materials Needed:

4 pieces of lumber 1-foot-long 4x4s corner posts

8 pieces of lumber 4-foot-long 2x6s side rails

4 piecesof lumber 2-foot-long 2x2s center stakes.

24 pieces 1-inch stainless screws

Weed mats or dampened newspapers

Chicken wire net

Tools Needed:

Measuring Tape

Hand Saw (if lumber bought is not the size specified)

Garden Scissors

Drill

Angle-Square

Mallet (or sledge)

Screwdriver

Carpenter’s Level

Soil Fillings:

Top soil or any loose soil

Nutrient rich compost (or dry organic fertilizers)

“Green mulch” made from mixed leaves, grass (lawn clippings, straw), and peat moss

3.       Measure and mark chicken wire net. This will prevent burrowing pests like as moles in entering your bed garden. Cut the chicken wire net to fit the bed of your raised bed garden.

4.       Measure and mark weed mat. Cut a piece of weed mat for it to fit the chicken wire net that was earlier placed into your raised bed, the size of determined size of bed, in this you will need to cut 4x4 foot-long. By putting the weed mat down first, you will notablydecrease the unwanted weeds that will crawl in your garden bed. Six to eight layers of moistened newspaper (no colour and glossy adverts!)Will also keep the unwanted weeds from growing inside the bed, as well as cardboard boxes, those with black and white prints (remove any plastic tape on the cardboard, we must be plastic-free).

5.       Gather your wood boards. Placeand position the 4x4s on each junction of your square. Then select which wall to start with, drill and screw the first 2x6 to combine the corners. When using cedar, use a drill since cedar wood is very dry, this is to avoid cracks. Assemble the second 2x6 and lay it on top of the first. Each end of the 2x6 wooden boards should be uniform with each sides of the post. Making sure that the rails and post are properly aligned at the right angels, use angle-square

6.       Stand the sidewalls straight upthus opposite each other.Posts should be outside. Toform the other remaining walls of the raised bed, Drill and screw the two side rails to combine the posts.

The ends of each rail should be equal with the sides of each of the posts.

7.       Measure diagonally both route across the bed to make sure the bed’s frame is square. Both diagonals should be even in length adjustment is needed for the raised bed.

8.       The 2x2 stakesneed to be placed at the middle part of one of the posterior walls. Then dig with trowel and pound it with mallet (or sledge) into the terrain so the top of stake will be equal with the side rails’ top. Attach the stake with side rails with deck screws. Do same methodto each of the other remaining three walls. This is for more secure frames and to avoid erosion of soil inside your bed garden.

9.       Once you've constructed your raised garden bed, wet weed mat (if you used newspapers or cardboards minimize water just enough to dampened them not to soak them). Do the “Lasagna gardening”. This will be your first layer then follow by few inches thick of “green mulch” made from mixed leaves, grass (lawn clippings, straw), and peat moss, then fill in by a thick layer of Nutrient rich compost (or dry organic fertilizers). Last layer will be topsoil or any loosened soil. Water it well and left to settle for a few days, and after that, the bed will be ready for planting

Instructions on how to build an Elevated Wooden Raised Bed Garden:

1.       Gather all materials and Tools needed for better access and to save time.

Materials Needed:

20 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′ cedar boards;

1 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′ cedar board;

2 1/2″ screws for exterior use (these will be used for most of the project);

2″ screws for exterior use (these will be used only for attaching the support pieces for the planting bed bottom);

Tools Needed:

Miter saw or chop saw;

Drill

Screwdriverbitsanddrill bits

Tape measure.

2.       The posterior measurements of this elevated raised bed garden table are 4′ 4″ wide X 3′ 4″ deep x 36″ high.  The bed measures 15″ in height on the posterior, with about 12″ of bed depth on the interior.  If you’d like to make other size prior to this, of course you’ll just need to adjust these measurements that are given below.

3.       Start out by sawing most of the boards. For the long bed side boards – 8 pieces cut to 3 feet 11.75 inches (it will be as close to 4 feet as likely, but because commonly boards are never a full 8 feet long, you just have to adjust a little bit on the length);

a.       For the short bed side boards – 8 pieces cut to 3 feet 4 inches;

b.      For leg pieces – 4 pieces cut to 36 inches;

c.       For top short leg pieces – 4 pieces cut to 23 inches;

d.      For bottom short leg pieces – 4 pieces cut to 9.25 inches;

e.      For leg support crossbars – 2 pieces cut to 36.75 inches.

Keep all of the wooden boards separated so that you can easily find the right pieces to be connected.

4.       Start with the legs.  First, line up a long leg piece and a top short leg piece so that they’re flat at one end drill on the board to avoid crack and splitting then screw them together.  Repeat the process with the other three legs.

5.       Next take the two constructed legs and one leg support crossbar and position them like letter "H" figure.  Screw each of the side together with two screws.

6.       Now position bottom short leg pieces below the crossbar, then drill and screw into place. Do the same method with in assembling the legs section in the other side of the bed frame.

7.       Now let the leg sections stand so that the crossbar is closer to the top.  Take and position on the groundone of the long bed side boards so the ends are flat with the leg sections.  Drill and screw the long bed side board to the legs.

8.       Repeat on the other long bed side board, and then do the two short bed sides.  At this point, it should look like a frame of a table.

9.       Now start building up the long bed sides of the bed, working up until four long bed sides is drilled and screwed to place, and then short bed sides last.  Each side (long and short) uses four wooden boards.

10.   When you have all the wooden boards secured to each side, you can stand the frame bed upright.

11.   To make a support for the bottom, cut the 1″ x 2″ piece of wood long enough to fit along the long bed side of the frame, and screw into place using 2-inch exterior screws on the bottom edge of the interior of the frame.  Place the screws at least as close together (about 5 inches) for full support of the bed.

12.   Also saw support pieces to position on the frame’s legs, then drill and screw into place at a height even with the other long support piece.

13.   With the support pieces attached to both long sides of the gardens bed frame (including the short supports on each of the bed frame's legs), you can measure and cut the pieces for the base of the bed frame.  You need not to notch out any boards for the bed frame's legs.  There will be a small gap, but not worth to go to any extra trouble for notching boards.

14.   With all of the boards sawed and put together into place, it should be more like an open top box.

15.   So now it is ready to be filled with organic compost and soil.

16.   For healthier plants to grow do the lasagna way (always): Though an elevated bed garden doesn't have soil for a base at the bottom and burrowing pests cannot possibly get into your plants as well as weeds we need not to put chicken wires and dampened newspaper anymore. We can start by filling with loose soil first for base about 5 inches then “Green mulch” made from mixed leaves, grass (lawn clippings, straw), and peat moss about 3 inches followed by Nutrient rich compost (or dry organic fertilizers), and top with loose soil.

17.    Water and let it settle before planting.

Stone Raised Bed Garden

A dry stack raised bed can seemingly draw attention, jagged, and gives your garden anostalgic charm appeal. Stonework decisively refrains the boring perspective of gardening hence it gives decorative final result well laid. Most people stay away from stonework like the blight. Stonework appears to be an unobtainable trade to most of us. A mortared stone house is on the far side the reach of most people, however building alittle dry banked raised bed to a height of 3 to 4 feet is very well among the clasp most home owners. And stone raised bed gardens area unit guaranteed to last.

Choosing stones:

Of course there immeasurable stones simply pull the native rock from the nearest fields or from woods close to your home however just in case you're living in a part with restricted materials let say you're living during a town wherever largely areas are cemented, you'll be able to still purchase them from your native quarry or garden centers. The wonder in it's that your stoneworks can have completely different styles every time! Well, conjointly depends on what selection of stones you would like. If you may purchase from an area quarry or garden centers they presumably have identical stones, lapidarian or blocked, with same color and form. however if you may simply need to gather it from anyplace make certain to gather atleast or close to every stone’s sizes and shapes in all probability the square or flat ones. It is much easier to find fieldstone so go for those.

Other materials:

You will need a premixed cement and gravel to secure each stack stones in place. You can buy a bag or two depending on how high the raise of the bed will be.

Tools

Tape measure, hammer, level, shovel, rake, string level, and tamper

Instructions for a simple 4x4 foot square Stone Raised Bed Garden

1.       A dry banked raised bed is actually four dry stacked stone walls organized in a square or parallelogram. Whereas you'll be bent on to make an oversized and fancily decorated stone garden, it is a smart plan to start out slowly as you advance your masonry chops. Using water-based paint or you can use flour (to avoid any chemical to leach on the soil), mark the surface border of your raised bed on the field. Start with a raised bed garden not more than 4-feet on either side (4x4). Once you have marked out the area and are pleased with the draft, use a hand trowel or shovel to get rid of the marked turf from the area. Dig atleast six inches depth just on the outline.

2.       Make sure you have your stones and other materials near your desired spot. It will be exhausting to travel stones with a wheelbarrow.

So the materials needed are as follows:

Gravel

Premixed cement

Fieldstone

Capstones

Chicken wire net

Tools Needed:

Tape measure

Hammer

Level

Shovel

Rake

String level (nylon)

Soil Fillings:

Top soil or any loose soil

Nutrient rich compost (or dry organic fertilizers)

“Green mulch” made from mixed leaves, grass (lawn clippings, straw), and peat moss

3.       You must establish wall face in order to do so hammer a rebar to the ground on nearly a foot away from each side of dug outline. Then tie a nylon string on the rebar measuring atleast 1 foot of height. Go around connecting each rebar with nylon sticking with measurements and you will have your determined height of your raised bed garden.

4.       Fill the first outline hole with gravel and premixed cement about 3 inches. This will serve as the foundation of your wall.

5.       Lay stones directly on the gravel use the heaviest stones you have for a solid foundation. Lay them until the first side wall outline is completed.

6.       Fill again with a pea size of gravel and premixed cement.

7.       Lay stones on the gravel using flat fieldstones. Continue to stack the using the stoneworks method: “One over two and two over one”. When it wobbles just insert little stones on each gaps. But be sure to as much as possible check the wall if its plumb. Stack until you reach the height.

8.       Backfill the interior of the walls. Smooth them as well.

9.       Do the wall adjacent to the finished wall this will be a little tricky since it can bump on the adjacent wall. Do step number 4 to 6. Since the cement is still moist on the adjacent wall carefully but surely lay and atleast slightly press stones on the corner. This will help the wall to be sturdier when the cement dries up. Continue to stack stones. And when height is reached backfill interior.

10.   Do the rest of the remaining walls using the same method as above until you finish every sides of the wall.

11.   When you’re done lay now the capstones. These are stones that usually have smooth to and flat face. Set the capstones in bed of premixed cement to secure it.

12.   You will now have a box like stonework. Let the cement dry for atleast a day.

f.        When the cement all dried up and stacked stones finally is secured.Measure and mark chicken wire net. This will prevent burrowing pests like moles in entering your bed garden. Cut the chicken wire net to fit the ground bed of your raised bed garden.

13.   Fill the bed with “green mulch” made from mixed leaves, grass (lawn clippings, straw), and peat moss first about 3-4 inches.

14.   Followed withNutrient rich compost (or dry organic fertilizers)

15.   Then top it with loose soil.

16.   Water it and let it settle for about a day. Then you’ll be ready to plant.

Is treated lumber and bricks safe?

“In 2003, the EPA banned the sale of lumber treated with chromated copper arsenate (CCA) for residential use. Two compounds, alkaline copper quat (ACQ) and copper azole (CA-B), have now replaced CCA wood in the residential market. Both contain copper and a fungicide but no arsenic. The copper keeps insects at bay, and the fungicide prevents soil fungus from attacking the wood. In ACQ, the fungicide is quat, which is also used in swimming-pool chemicals and as a disinfectant. The other compound, CA-B, uses copper and tebuconazole, a fungicide used on food crops. According Washington State Department of Agriculture, no pressure-treated wood is allowed in soils used to grow organic food. Until the safety of treated wood is proven conclusively, strongly recommended to use a naturally rot-resistant wood like, black locust, red cedar or redwood. Under most circumstances, these woods will last 10 - 20 years when used for raised beds” ~derived by Environmental Protection Agency ( EPA) website

The following carcinogenicity classifications for crystalline silica used in producing bricks, have been established by the following agencies:

OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration): Non-regulated

IARC (International Agency Research for Cancer:  Carcinogenic

NTP (National Toxicology Program): Carcinogenic

Caution: Brick dust contains crystalline silica, a harmful chemical that has been discovered by IARC and NTP that causes cancer.

When Planting on Raised Bed Garden:

Whatever you want to plant in your bed garden it should have atleast 4 to 6 inches spaces in between them. This is for the plants to breathe and their roots not to easily tie up together especially when you are planning to raise root crops. This process is just right for their leaves overlap slightly at maturity and produces a continuous leafy canopy that shades the bed, control soil temperature, moderates moisture, and prevents weeds. Though planting must be carefully planned according to each crop’s nature in growing, root spread, maturity size, water and nutrient needs.

Here is an instruction on how to grow Carrots on you Raised Bed Garden:

Materials Needed:

Hand trowel

Watering Can

Carrots seeds

1.       Choose your carrots seeds properly. For example you have a foot high raised bed garden, then grow carrots that length to 6 inches when grown. Ask your local seed market about how long will each carrot grow for you to well determine which one to plant. We must avoid ugly disfigured carrots.

2.       Make sure to moist and cultivate first the soil for easier planting. And provide soft, fertile, well-drained soil so they can stretch their root downward for long straight slender carrots. Soil must not contain so much clay to refrain by having short and deformed carrots. Difficultyin pulling from the ground at harvest time will also result if we use clay soil.

3.       Plant carrot seeds directly into the soil in the raised bed. Use a stick to thrust small, slight holes into the soil about 3 inches apart. Push two carrot seeds in each hole and lightly cover with soil.

4.        Be sure to keep the soil evenly moist as seeds are growing. As the carrot plants continue to flourish, be sure to give them abundant water. Increase water as your carrots grow in size.

5.        Thin your carrot seedlings to three inches apart once the tops of the carrots get to be about two inches long.

6.        As the carrots continue to flourish, thin out plants to breathe and room to grow. As carrots are plucked and eaten, try to uproot every other plant to give more space left for growing plants.

7.        About 70 days after the carrots germinate from seeds, the carrots are ready harvest.

8.        It is okay to take a peek at the growing carrots. Push the topsoil away to reveal the size of its roots.

9.        Finger sized baby carrots can be thinned and eaten.

10.    Just don’t forget to pluck every other carrot, so the remaining carrots can have room to grow

11.    Harvest remaining crop when roots are less than 1 ½ inches in diameter. Too big in size carrots differs in taste than those of baby sized carrots which are sweet and tasty.

Maintaining a Raised Bed Garden

1.       Contentedly, raised beds need very little sustenance. During spring or fall, it's ideal to top dressing with just-produced compost and organic fertilizer is ideal. If your garden bed only grows seasonal plants, you can just go ahead and dig up the rich compost and organic fertilizers into the topsoil. For any raised bed garden, fertilization of the top soil will help absorb moisture and refrain weeds. Dampness retention is important, since raised bed garden tend to drain easily than conventional ground beds.

2.       Check the bed for roots that may be growing beneath the bed garden. These unwanted roots can steal nutrients from newly planted seeds of plants. Dig frequently after harvesting plants (for seasonal plants). Keeping an eye on unwanted roots can help newly planted plants or seeds to grow at their best.

3.       Never step on the beds. Train you pets as well to stay from it because stepping on the bed garden can compact the soil. This can also be the cause of reduced supply with air or expose to the circulation of air and impacted root growth.

4.       Protect raised bed gardens with fibre cloths.

a.       You can use a bended PVC pipes= bend a PVC pipe (use the bendable type) when desired arch is reached secure the pipe’s bended arch with a rope tied in each edge. Do another with the same arch. Clip the fibre clothes to the pipe arches and you have an insect-free damp conserving hoop house.

b.      You can also consider using the posts of your raised bed garden. Clip the fiber clothes on each post. Though some raised bed garden doesn’t have posts like the stone raised bed garden.

c.       When you have a stone raised bed garden, you might consider putting an arch trellis. It doesn’t have to be super decorative a simple bamboo trellis may do if it’s available in your area. Clip the fiber clothes in the trellis and just let it flow down.

Other Materials that is also good for Building Raised Bed Garden:

·         Concrete Blocks

Place 10 concrete blocks with open ends facing up to outline the raised bed. The openings can be filled with soil and used as planting pockets for small herbs or edible flowers as well as securing the concrete blocks in place.

To build raised bed garden our of concrete blocks 4x4 feet, you’ll need 10 blocks, 5x5 by 10 inches each.

·         Sandbags

Sandbags can also be used as an outline for raised bed garden. Though it will not last that long for bags tend to break when prolonged exposure to weather this will do for seasonal planting. Stack two sandbags high. To build a bed 4x4 feet, you'll need 20 sandbags. Don't use sandbags that has colour printed on it especially when planning to grow edible plants, the ink used maybe high in lead (a component harmful to our body)

·         Simple Planks and Rebar

You can make a bag out of leftover planks from constructions.  Any dimension may do. But make sure it is untreated since treated wood planks can be carcinogenic. Short lengths rebar pounded into the ground can serve as support for the planks. The longer the planks the more rebar you need.

·         Wattle

First hammer into the ground about 2 feet in lengths of rebar, exposing 10 inches. Go around the defined bed perimeter giving about 16 inches spaced apart.

Weave sticks or wattle about 1/2 inch in diameter through the vertical rebar in basket style. Cut the ends if needed. Do these until you reach the top of rebar.  Bend in half sticks of at least 2 feet and push them into the ground going over the woven wattles but holding the wattles in place. Every few feet you have to fasten the sides in this way. To keep soil inside the wattle, line the interior sides of the bed garden with burlap.

For a 4x4 feet raise bed garden you'll need 10 pieces of rebar; a strip of burlap not more than 18 inches in width and 24 feet long,  and at least a hundred long, sticks should be flexible in order to weave.

·         Logs

In creating bed outline, choose sturdy straight logs at least foot in diameter. Smaller logs can be stacked.Firewood-length can also be lined up to avoid having to carry large logs. To build a raised bed garden 4x4 feet, you'll need two 3 feet logs for the short sides and two 4 feet logs for the ends. Just lay them and fill with soil.

Disadvantages to Using Raised Bed Gardens

Working in a limited space is one of the disadvantages in using Raised bed gardens. Plants that need a lot of space, needs to be picket to trellises or vines, this is for them grow straight up and not crawl on the ground. If you do not have a lot of idea about gardening, this can be difficult and tricky to do.

Another disadvantage that is known in planting in raised bed garden is that there are some vegetables that won’t grow as well in raised beds. For example, corn, rice and potatoes tend not to grow as well in raised beds. Corn and rice do it the best when there are rows and rows of it. As for potatoes tend to compact the soil in the raised beds gardens and chances are they overload the bed.