Let's Go Metal Detecting

The Easy to Use Guide to

Treasure Hunting

With a

Metal Detector

By Todd Moss

Text copyright ©2013

LifeStyle Publishing 4You, LLC

All Rights Reserved

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Table Of Contents

- INTRODUCTION

- WHAT IS METAL DETECTING?

- HOW DO I GET STARTED METAL DETECTING?

- Let's Go Dirt Fishing

- HOW DO I TALK METAL DETECTING?

- WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT METAL DETECTING?

- HOW DO I CHOOSE MY FIRST METAL DETECTOR?

- SEVERAL METAL DETECTOR FEATURES AND REVIEWS

- WHAT OTHER EQUIPMENT WILL I NEED?

- WHAT SHOULD I WEAR? The Metal Detectors Uniform

- ARE THERE ANY RULES THAT I NEED TO KNOW?

- WHERE DO I GO FOR MY FIRST HUNT?

- Why a Treasure Garden?

- LETS GO METAL DETECTING

- Preparing for Your Hunt

- Where to Hunt

- Planning the Hunt

- Locating Good Spots

- HOW DO I BECOME BETTER AT METAL DETECTING?

- PLEASE REVIEW THE BOOK

INTRODUCTION

You are about to enter into a new and exciting hobby . . . Metal Detecting.

Hunting for treasures with your metal detector opens up an exhilarating time of excitement and outdoor adventures for you, your family, and friends.  They can all join in America's fastest growing hobby of exploring for valuable treasures of all kinds.  Metal Detecting is a hobby that can pay for itself with the value of the found treasures.

Let’s see if you qualify for this sport! Do you need or enjoy getting exercise that’s not too strenuous, such as walking on paths or shorelines, bending over, or an occasional bit of hill climbing?  Do you like being outdoors, enjoying the sun, fields, woods and just being in God’s nature?  When you are out and about and you find something unexpected, do you get excited and curious at the same time?

If you answered “yes” to any of these questions, then welcome to the wonderful world of Metal Detecting!

In “Let's Go Metal Detecting” you will explore the basics of this wonderful hobby (which is also a sport) and we will get you started on your new hobby. You will be presented with a good understanding of what you need and need to know about the wonderful world of Metal Detecting.

Let’s get started!

WHAT IS METAL DETECTING?

At one time if you wanted to see artifacts or items of history you would have to visit a museum.  Or, if you lost something precious, it was most likely gone forever.  Finding lost valuables or items of interest was left to shear happenstance or to the experts.

Metal detecting is the process of using an electronic device, similar to sonar, to find metal objects that are buried as far down as eight inches.  Today’s detectors can even tell the difference between a bottle cap and a coin or a button or even larger items.

As technology advanced over the years, metal detectors have become lighter and are easier to use.  These advancements have made it possible for anyone to enjoy the thrill of treasure hunting, either as a hobby or as a profession.  Even the cost of getting into the sport has become affordable for most budgets.

Today, metal detecting – “treasure hunting”, has become an avid sport for many people.  Thousands of people around the world are metal detecting and looking for their next great find.  Quite often these “treasure hunters” are finding things of interest with enough value to pay for their hobby.  Occasionally, they find something of real value, providing a great payday – making the “sport” very exciting!

As you get involved in metal detecting, you’ll start seeing passionate treasure hunters hunting on the beaches, in old woods, and in fields looking for the lost relics and treasures that are preserved by time.  It has become so common that people pay little attention to treasure hunters with a metal detector looking for their next great find.

You may think that all the really good stuff is gone by now but nothing could be further from the truth.  The areas holding items from past generations and lost items is so vast that when you plan your hunt it will most likely be in an area that has not previously been hunted, hiding treasures waiting to be found.  Don’t fret about whether it is virgin territory or not – just start the hunt.

Metal detecting today is an inexpensive hobby that anyone can learn.  All your family and friends can be involved, building memories that will last a lifetime.

HOW DO I GET STARTED METAL DETECTING?

Like most hobbies, you need to have an understanding of the basics  Read on and we’ll give you a good idea of what you need and what you will need to do to get started.  As with many sports, half of the fun is in learning and preparing for the adventure.

It is important to know the equipment you absolutely need and what would be nice to have (making for great holiday and birthday gifts).  Researching the different brands and types of equipment before you make a selection is very important.  You will be provided with some equipment guidelines later in the book.

Naturally, once you have purchased your metal detector, you will need to learn how to use it. Today’s metal detectors are really easy to use. After reading the detector’s manual and a little practice you will have a good understanding of how your new detector works.

Learning how to use a compass and some basic map reading skills is very important.  YouTube and the internet will give you all the information you need.  A little practice will hone your abilities.

In today’s age of the internet, it is very easy to talk with metal detector enthusiasts along with experts about the sport.  Go online and join some metal detecting blogs - they are a great source of current information.

In order to better plan your hunting pattern and increase your chance for success, you need to be able to read your hunting sites.   Later in the book more details are provided to make you reasonably hunting site proficient.  While this skill may sound difficult, you will find most of it to be common sense, along with trusting your judgment on what the site is showing you.

Understand that one of the beauties of metal detecting is that it is easy to become knowledgeable enough to get started enjoying your hobby.  As it is with most endeavors, the best teacher is experience.  Once you have your equipment and a basic understanding of what you are going to do, get out and do it!

The more often you try and with both success and failures, the quicker will be your learning curve. Before long you will be a metal detecting expert.

Let’s Go Dirt Fishing

One of the things that tickled me when I first got interested in metal detecting was the term “dirt fishing” which I heard from some veterans of the sport.  When you think about it, “dirt fishing” is a pretty close description of what we are doing.  When you’re on a hunt and your detector tells you that you have found something - out comes your shovel.  You carefully start digging in the dirt to find the object - which sometimes you find and sometimes you don’t.  It’s kind of like fishing when you get a bite and the fish is not landed.  Thus, the term “dirt fishing”!

Try going on the internet and Google – dirt fishing – then see what happens.  You will most likely find that is a category with lots of entries.  Some are about other things that use a similar term but most are about metal detecting.  Typically dirt fishing deals with various techniques.

You now know your first unique term for your new hobby.

HOW DO I TALK METAL DETECTING?

Below are some of the more common terms and words you will come across as you get more involved in metal detecting.

Metal: a non-discriminate control setting that accepts detection of all metal objects, including ferrous (i.e. iron-containing) ground minerals.

Audio ID: also known as tone ID, this metal detector feature identifies targets via a tone that corresponds to their conductivity.

Cache: a group of objects that has been intentionally hidden or buried.

Clad: a term for coins that are still in circulation. With clad coins, a surface metal covers or clads a base metal. Pennies, for example, used to be made from copper, but are now copper-clad zinc.

Coil: also known as the head, loop, or antenna, a coil is the metal-sensing part of a metal detector.

Coin Shooting: a slang term for coin hunting, or going detecting specifically in search of coins.

Concentric Coil: concentric means "having a common center." Concentric search coils feature circular transmit and receive windings of unequal diameters that are aligned on a common center, producing a cone-shaped search matrix. If the wire coils/windings of a concentric coil are on the same plane, it's referred to as coplanar concentric.

Conductivity: conductivity refers to how well a target allows electrical current to flow through it. For example, electrical currents freely flow around a highly conductive coin when energized by the electromagnetic field from a metal detector.

Discrimination: discrimination is a metal detector's ability to identify buried targets based on conductive and/or ferrous properties. Based on measuring these properties, it is possible to determine valuable targets from junk targets so you can spend more time digging valuable targets.

Electromagnetic Field: an electromagnetic field is an invisible matrix created by electrically charged objects. In metal detectors, the electrical current moving through the transmitter coil of the search head produces an electromagnetic field, and this field extends to a depth perpendicular to the size of the coil. When the field encounters metals, they generate their own fields, which can be measured by a metal detector's receiver coil.

Elliptical Coil: an ellipse is an extended oval shape resembling a flattened circle. A search coil in this shape is called an elliptical coil. Elliptical metal detector coils can be either concentric or wide scan.

Ferrous: ferrous objects (targets) contain iron and therefore are attracted to a magnet (nails, tin cans, horseshoes, etc.). Many natural and man-made objects contain iron, most of these are junk targets, although some could be valuable relics. Non-ferrous materials do not contain iron. Good targets include coins, gold rings, and copper artifacts. Examples of junk targets are bottle tops, pull tabs, and aluminium foil.

Frequency: frequency refers to how fast a metal detector sends signals into the ground. Frequency is measured in Hertz (Hz). Certain frequencies detect certain targets better than others, e.g., high frequencies find very small targets while low frequencies find deeper/larger targets.

Ground Balance: soil often contains ground minerals, magnetic material composed of ferric oxide and other metals. These iron-bearing materials cause loss of depth in a metal detector. Ground balance is the ability to manually or electronically ignore/neutralize these signals (sometimes called ground tracking or ground reject).

Ground Mineralization: refers to naturally occurring minerals in the ground that affect a metal detector's performance. There are two main types of ground mineralization: one is due to iron particles and can be identified by its red coloration; the other is due to salt, such as salt water beaches. Iron particle mineralization causes the ground to become magnetic and salt mineralization causes the ground to become conductive. Both forms of ground mineralization can produce false signals that mask targets. The ground mineralization illustration shows minerals in the ground producing a response to the metal detector's electromagnetic field.

Masking: masking occurs when ground minerals or buried objects interfere with the detection of a legitimate find, resulting in a mixed signal.

Matrix: the total detection area covered by a search coil's electromagnetic field.

Notch: notch filtering or notch discrimination is used to create a range of accepted and rejected targets. Setting the notch level on your metal detector to discriminate against certain objects means tuning out or blocking a particular frequency band. This is called notch reject. Conversely, creating a notch window of accepted frequencies is called notch accept.

Null: when a metal or coin detector coil passes over targets that have been discriminated against or are outside of the accepted notch window, a metal detector's threshold audio will go quiet or drop momentarily, i.e. go null.

Pinpointing: refers to the act of determining the precise location of a target. This can be accomplished by manually "detuning" a metal detector, or adjusting it to be less sensitive, and then sweeping the target response area again. Because the metal detector is less sensitive after detuning, an audio signal should provide a more exact location due to the strength of the signal.

Prospecting: treasure hunting with a metal detector in search of gold, silver, or valuables.

Relic Hunting: metal detecting in quest of objects that possess historical (and sometimes also monetary) value.

Sweep: the motion a metal detectorist employs when using a metal detector, it usually resembles the side-to-side movement used when sweeping a floor.

Target: any metal object that can be detected by a metal detector. A target can be either valuable, such as coins, or junk like a bottle cap.

Target ID: numbers and audio tones are produced by a metal detector to enable you to identify targets based on their conductive and/or ferrous properties.

Threshold: the threshold is essentially status quo for the listening detectorist. The threshold is a continuous, faint tone that provides an audible reference point for ground-balancing a detector. It also determines the minimum sound level for pinpointing targets, including deep targets in discriminate mode.

WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT METAL DETECTORS?

Obviously, you are going to have to have a metal detector in order to do your hobby.  Unless you know someone who has a detector you can borrow to get started, you are going to have to buy one.  I strongly recommend that you buy a new one.  There is no need to, possibly, take on some problems with a used detector.  If there is a problem with a used detector, you could get discouraged from continuing to pursue your new hobby.

Before you consider which metal detector is right for you, take a look at the various basic types of metal detectors described below.  This knowledge will help make a decision as to which one to purchase.

First, there is the simple “transmit & receive” system, which is pretty much the old basic technology. These detectors can differentiate between ferrous items and non-ferrous items but they do not function well in naturally mineralized soil. About the only place you can find this type of detector is in the used market.  Who knows, you might even find one buried when hunting for treasures.

Another type of detector is one that detects metals with an oscillation beat frequency system. While it is still available today, it is typically associated with the inexpensive category of less than a hundred dollars brand new.  It is not recommended unless you just want a toy to play with.

Now let’s look at the third type of detector which uses “very low frequency” (VLF) technology. These metal detectors can find a variety of metals, including iron, silver and gold. Higher frequency models are used primarily for prospecting for gold nuggets and gold flakes.

Some manufacturers have combined the old T & R technology with VLR to control false-positive detections and to detect trash and junk in the ground.

The last type of metal detector uses pulse induction to track down metals buried deep in the ground. They are not much better than the T&R machines and are great in the mineralized areas and underwater with a waterproof casing.

Don’t be misled by the statement that a detector’s most important feature must be how deep it detects.  In fact, with the exception of the most expensive ones, almost all metal detectors about have the same detection depth.

Now that we have cleared up that misconception, let me give you my best advice.  Select the best detector that you can afford.  Look for one that has features that make it easy to use, will help you when you are hunting, and, if possible, has a visual read out of any detection.  This feature will make it easier to see what you have found.

HOW DO I CHOOSE MY FIRST MEDAL DETECTOR?

There are many types of metal detectors available from various manufacturers.  You need to select the best metal detector that meets your needs and your budget. The answer to getting the right metal detector is going to somewhat depend on what treasures you are hunting, what type of area you live in, and your budget.  The ease of use of a metal detector is another important consideration when purchasing.

Often people go overboard in their newbie stage and buy the top-of-the-line metal detector, finding the features are so complicated that they never use the detector.  Do not make that mistake.

You need to evaluate your needs by considering the following:

1. Determine what you want to find by identifying your interests.  There are many "general purpose" metal detectors that find everything from coins, rings, and jewellery to relics, even gold – and they are available at almost all price levels.  If you believe this is your primary interest then you will want your metal detector to have exceptional discriminating and pinpointing features.

If your treasure hunting goal is to search just for artifacts and relics, you should consider a detector that is specifically made for this particular type of hunting.

If seeking gold nuggets and gold flakes (called natural gold) is your intent then you will have to have a higher frequency detector with a deeper finding range than the general detector.

2. What are the typical ground conditions of the areas where you will be doing most of your metal detecting?

If you think you will be doing most of your hunts in your local area including playgrounds, old school property, fishing and hunting sites and camps, local parks and mostly dry areas, then the general metal detector is exactly what you need. There are many models from which to choose.

If you are in an area with fresh water lakes and rivers, then you will most likely want to hunt the water edges.  These areas, typically, will yield a nice treasure, lost jewelry and fishing related items.  While most of today’s metal detectors have waterproof coils for shallow water searching, it’s important to make sure the one you select has that feature.

For salt water hunting you will want an underwater –beach – land metal detector.  They can be totally submerged in an ocean and still continue to provide a signal so you won’t miss those sunken treasures.

It is interesting to note that more gold and valuable jewelry are found on beaches and near swimming areas.

3. How frequently do you think you will go metal detecting?

If you are like the rest of us, once you get into it, you will become addicted to your new sport.  Therefore, make sure that you look for quality and sturdiness in your new detector and that it is built to last.  And make sure that service is readily available.

The more you get out and enjoy your new hobby, the greater the chances are that you can abuse your detector? You may not think you will drop it or hit it against a tree, but it could happen.  Will you store it in your car trunk where it can get bounced around?

Make sure that you purchase a detector that is rugged and built solidly.  Go on the internet and read the reviews about the various machines and look at the quality of the warranty.

Buying cheap is not always the best idea.  Always buy the best metal detector you can afford.  Make sure that it is rated high in quality when compared to similar models and has a warranty that is market competitive.   This will avoid potential headaches down the road!

4. Do you have any experience metal detecting?

It actually doesn’t matter, most quality metal detectors are easy to tune and use.  They will provide you with the treasure hunting experience you want. Most all of the current models are designed so that a newbie to the sport will have no problem quickly learning how to use them.

These detectors typically have the very latest features and are automatic! You install the batteries, turn them on and start detecting. Other features may include the prospecting for gold or “find coins” settings.  You can choose the trash tune out level, and start hunting.

5. What is your metal detector budget?

You should now have a general idea of what type of metal detector you will need or want.  No matter what your budget is, you should be buying the best machine you can possibly afford.

Keep in mind that a couple of great finds like a piece of gold jewelry, some type of a diamond piece, or a valuable relic or coin could very well pay for the investment you made in your detector.  It happened to me and it is likely to happen to you.

The better machines have more capability of identifying targets before you start your dig. They more easily cancel out the junk so you are only digging for the valuables.  You'll have more features to identify your targets before you dig. The better detector will also be more automatic and easier to tune and use.

It’s important to remember that the better the detector, the more valuable the treasures you might find.

However, you should invest only what you can afford - you can always upgrade later.  All of them will deliver loads of fun and get you launched on a lifetime hobby full of great experiences.

SEVERAL METAL DETECTOR FEATURES AND REVIEWS

You, now, have the general information about how different metal detectors work. You have reviewed the five questions about how you anticipate using your metal detector.  It’s time to select the right metal detector for you.

Each of the machines listed below are VLF detectors and have been selected and reviewed with consideration to the beginning metal detectorist.  The reviews are from Amazon or other sites like Gold Rush Trading Post.  Each should meet your needs.  Selecting the one you want becomes a matter of personal preference.  They are listed in no particular order.

Bounty Hunter Tracker4 Metal Detector ($150 - $200 range)

Features: Rugged metal detector ideal for detecting treasure in extreme ground conditions.  Motion All-Metal mode, Discrimination mode, and 2-Tone audio mode.  Preset ground balance neutralizes response to mineral content in the ground.  Disc/notch control distinguishes between targets and unwanted metals

Review: The Bounty Hunter brand/model seemed to take first place as the best choice for units under $300. Reviews from novices to experts concurred that the Bounty Hunter Tracker IV was a great buy as well as a great metal detector for novice to intermediate users.

“I didn't want to spend too little and get a cheap product. This item was priced right and so far has proven to be a quality item. It was easy to assemble in maybe 5 minutes, it is lightweight and the shaft adjusts in height.  When I received the device, I walked out into my backyard to play around a little, and immediately, with a resounding "DING", found a penny about 4 inches deep.

Some reviews slammed the "pinpoint" feature. “Honestly, after I read the book, I found that it worked quite well. It seems to work very well down to about 8". It may work well beyond that... I really haven't had the chance yet to hunt anywhere for really deep items.”

“It's very light, and the display crams a lot of useful stuff into a small area without being confusing.  I like it, and for the money wouldn't think twice about buying another.”

Bounty Hunter QD2GWP Quick Draw II Metal Detector with Pin Pointer (about $200.00)

Features: Fully automated to eliminate false signals.  One-touch depth select control adjusts sensitivity to more deeply buried targets.  Features an 8-inch interchangeable waterproof coil with sensitivity and discrimination controls.  Operates on two 9-volt alkaline batteries.

Review: “The Quickdraw II is a great all-around metal detector. It is a feature rich, mid-priced metal detector. I mostly use it in the "All metal" mode but have also used it to notch out unwanted metals where it performs as advertised. I've dug up relics and coins, and the coin ID has been accurate 99 percent of the time. You get used to the different sounds and after a while can guess what metal you're digging (tab, rusted can, etc.).”

“When used too close to the water or in wet sand, the detector gives off numerous false readings as the sodium in the water drives it crazy. To adjust, I turned the sensitivity almost all the way down and was able to use the detector.”

Garret 1139070 Ace 250 Metal Detector around $200

Features: Large 10" Scan Area for Quick & Accurate Scanning.  Electronic Pinpoint Feature with Coin Depth Gauge for Quick Target Retrieval.  Graphic Target Id with 12 Element Notch Discrimination for Greater Accuracy.  Touch-N-Go Technology.  Headphone Jack Included.

Review: “The 12 segment Target Identification is not as good as the 2 digit codes that are on higher end machines but it will distinguish between types of targets.  In just a couple of hours I found quite a few 'wheat' pennies, a couple silver mercury dimes and a 1963 silver quarter in good condition.”

“I was ecstatic and soon could tell from the different sounds what was junk and what was treasure.”

“If the detector beeps there is some kind of treasure hidden beneath it. The coin demonization scale is pretty accurate except for nickel and pull tab.  If someone plans to search along the shoreline (The search coil is waterproof).”

“I plan to buy Garrett's new 9" X 11" search coil to help me find the "ones that got away". Highly recommended....don't pass this one up!!”

Fisher F2 Metal Detector with PinPointer   (Priced $200 - $250)

Features: 8 inch coil 5 year warranty, pin pointer, 12 metal detector technology.

Review: “The Fisher F-2 features the 2 digit Target Identification that you will see on more expense machines.  This gives it the ability to discriminate treasures from trash. This is just such a great machine and is the lowest priced machine with an 8 inch coil.”

“The different sounds help me when I am not looking at the screen. It'll find 95% percent of what the top of the line F75 will for $1000 less.  The 4 inch coil is great for those trashy areas and gets a respectable 6 inches in my soil; the 8 inch coil is just great for multiple purposes. I found it also does well in trashy areas and have found my first Liberty half dollar with it last week!”

“The optional 11 DD Coil Turns the F2 INTO A BEAST! The target separation is so good I thought I had the 4" coil on!  The depth is great just yesterday I got a quarter signal (at 9 inches) and to my surprise it wasn't a regular Washington quarter it was a Barber!”

Any of the above metal detectors will meet your needs - some will even exceed your expectations.  As you can imagine, there are many more good machines.  It is highly recommend that you shop around and pick one that seems to catch your attention.

Listed below are two reliable places on the internet that deliver good quality detectors at a great price.

1. Amazon:  Amazon’s pricing typically is the best around and they may give you extras such as free shipping.

2. Gold Rush Trading Post is a company dedicated to Metal Detecting and Prospecting.  It is a fun site to peruse and is full of information.  Their metal detector and equipment pricing is very competitive. The metal detectors listed above were the same price on this site as on Amazon.

Used Metal Detectors

While it is not recommended to purchase a used machine, it may have the advantage of added features.  Make sure that you ask why the machine is for sale and that you want to try it out before you buy it.  Most are very old and will not have the latest technology built into them. These disadvantages will make it more difficult to find the treasures you seek.

Having said that, there is always the gem just waiting for a new owner so if you decide to go this route – do your homework before you purchase.  Remember – negotiate – negotiate –negotiate!

WHAT OTHER EQUIPMENT DO I NEED?

The following includes an absolute needs list as well as a “wish list”.  The needs from the “wish list” items are noted.

Headphones: Need.  You are going to need a good headphone set.  You can try a pair that you have at home to start with because they may very well be all you need.  However, a set of headphones designed to go with the machine are better.  For sure do not use the “ear-bud” type.  Headphones will help cancel outside noises and help you distinguish the tones and signals given off by your detector.

Coil Cover/Rain Cover: Wish list.  It will help prevent scratches and marks on your coil.  They are not too costly.  A rain cover will protect your detector from unanticipated rain showers.  It is a good idea to try to keep your electronics dry.  A plastic bag might work just as well – your choice.

Coils:  Wish list.  After you have been detecting for a while you may want to move into a larger coil.  The standard on most machines is between 6 and 10 inches.  These are good for trash filled areas as they can separate responses on close by targets. This makes it easier to find coins as opposed to the bad stuff.  The bigger coils penetrate deeper for larger and older objects.

Digging Tools:  Need.  Obviously you are going to have to have some way of digging in the ground to get your finds.  I recommend that you start with a hand-held garden shovel that is stainless steel, a screwdriver and an ice pick.  However, you will soon see that, depending on the conditions of the soil in the area you are hunting, a larger digging tool would be handy.

Metal Probe: Wish list.  A probe that has three prongs is ideal.  This is to help you find something solid before you start digging.  Go to one of the online stores like Amazon and you will get an idea of the various probes and digging tools.

Pin-Pointers: Wish list. Many of today’s machines come with pin-pointers.  However, you may find that a hand held one is more accurate and makes it both easier and quicker to find coins and other such items. Be aware of the fact that coins that have long been buried turn almost a dirt color and can be difficult to locate. This can result in missing the item that is right in front of you.  A hand held pin-pointer will solve that problem.

Tool Belt: Need.  You need a tool belt with at least 3 pockets so that you can sort your finds in the field. It is recommended that you keep coins in one pocket, stuff in the other and tools in the other.  You may want to consider a belt with a large pocket in the back to put things like towels, knee pads and other items in.  You do not need to buy a new one; most second hand stores will have a few which will save you some money.

Knee Pads: Wish list.  While they make knee pads specifically for metal detecting you will find that pads used in basketball or soccer work about as well – that is as long as you are not too worried about fashion.  While you are at the second hand store looking for your tool belt, check to see if they have a pair of second hand pads.

Back Pack: Wish list.  If you do not have a back pack, you may want to buy one (second hand store, again) to store your other stuff in so that it is all together and ready to carry in the field.

GPS: Need - Must have.  I don’t know about you but I hate the idea of getting lost.  While I’m not much when it comes to sophisticated electronic devices, I think a GPS is a must have piece of equipment.  I carry one called the Back Tracker that simply marks your vehicle location and one or two other locations.  When you’re ready to go back to your vehicle, it tells you the straight-line direction you need to go and how far you are away from it.  It has worked for me.  What it will not do is give you way points and mark locations you may want to visit again.  I think my Back Tracker cost around $50.00.

Compass: Need - Must have.  Even if you have a GPS always carry a compass. You never know when the GPS might stop working or you accidently lose it.  A compass always works.  Just pin it to your shirt and check it regularly.

Towel or a Piece of Plastic: Need.  When you start your dig you will want to place the dirt on a towel or plastic for two reasons; 1) you can sift through the dirt to make sure you are not leaving a treasure behind.  2) It makes it easier to replace the dirt/sod back in the hole in order to leave your site in the same condition you found it.

Magnifier: Wish list.  Most Metal Detectorist prefer to identify their findings right away.  Some type of hand held magnifier or eye loupe will help identify these objects when you find them.

A flashlight and a headlamp with a LED bulb are handy.  Some of your treasure hunts will last into the evening and the flashlights become an essential tool.

A couple of water bottles: Nice to have.  One bottle will have soap and water to wash the dirt off your findings.  The second is for drinking water.

First-Aid Kit: Need.  Either put together a basic first-aid kit or go to your local drug or outdoor store and buy a small one.

WHAT SHOULD I WEAR?  The Medal Detector’s Uniform

Actually there is no such thing as a metal detector’s uniform; this is not a high fashion sport.  The following are a few items to consider wearing before venturing out on your hunt for treasure.

Boots: Need.  You are going to be basically hiking so you need a good pair of rugged hiking boots (not steel toes).  While walking shoes may work, they do not provide much protection from turning an ankle.  Rubber boots may be needed if you are hunting in wet areas.  Sandals are good for beach areas, but not river and lake shorelines.

Socks: Need.  Do not even think of going on a hunt in the field without a good pair of socks.  You will be doing a lot of walking and blisters are not fun, besides they can ruin a very good hunt.

Gloves: Need.  Get yourself a well-fitting pair of garden or work gloves.  They will save your hands and fingers from scratches, cuts and dirt.

Hat: Must have.  You are going to be outside so you need to protect your face from the sun.  A brimmed hat that is designed for the outdoors is ideal, at least a baseball cap with a brim.

Pants: Need.  For your hunts in the woods and fields consider a pair of lightweight, long leg cargo pants. The extra pockets come handy and they will protect your legs from getting scratched.  Shorts work fine or the beaches and water edges.

Shirt: Need.  Do not go in the woods or fields without a shirt on. Bug bites and insects will get you.  For summer, a light weight long sleeve shirt like a tropical fishing shirt is perfect.

ARE THERE ANY RULES THAT I NEED TO KNOW?

The first and most important rule is to check local and municipal regulations about where you can hunt for treasures. This is particularly true on historical sites and in environmentally sensitive areas.  A good place to check is on the internet for local metal detector clubs.  If there are any local regulations about metal detecting, they will normally list them.

Other than checking for local regulations, common sense becomes the best rule to follow.  Following is a list of some common sense rules that will keep you out of trouble and help you enjoy your day treasure hunting.

- Always get permission from the property owner before you go on private property.  A friend telling you that it is o.k. doesn’t count.

- No Trespassing and Keep Out signs actually mean do not come in and that means you.  It’s always a good idea to obey these signs.

- Be polite and you may be rewarded with permission a lot easier and more often.  You might even get information about some great places to metal detect.

- Make sure to explain exactly what you want to do, why you would like to explore their land and how you operate, particularly your digging process.  Make them comfortable that you will respect their land.

- When you dig a hole always fill it in when you are done and leave the area the way you found it.

- If you need to make a fire, know where it is allowed. The only exception is in an emergency and that might not even be a good enough reason.

- If you have permission to enter and you do so through a locked gate, make sure it is locked when you leave the property.

- You will often have a pile of trash and junk when you dig for your findings. Always remove the trash and dispose of it properly.

- Be a good steward of the environment.  Don’t liter, even on abandoned property or a desolate beach.

- Removing, destroying or tampering with private property, including signs is an absolute do-not-do. Preserve what you find and never destroy.

- Respect the culture and history of each artifact. Respect the environment and nature, too.

These rules are just common sense.  The most important thing to remember is that you are a metal detectorist who wants to hunt and locate, not destroy.

WHERE DO I GO FOR MY FIRST HUNT?

Now that you have your new metal detector, you have probably familiarized yourself with it to the point that you are anxious to go.  Well, slow down; let’s do a little practice to learn more about your sensitivity settings and sounds. You need to have a better feeling about the settings on your machine and the sensitivity of your metal detector’s search coil.

The best way to learn about your new metal detector is to create a “treasure garden”.

Why a Treasure Garden?

You are anxious to use your new metal detector and so you bury some coins in your yard and wave the machine around.  If you do this you will probably not get any signal at all! It’s not the detector’s fault but rather with the buried item.

Metal detectors depend on the presence of the halo effect. The halo effect happens when an item stays buried for a while. It needs to be buried long enough so that oxidation begins and metallic molecules start to move from the item and disperse throughout the soil. This creates a metallic halo that a metal detector can identify.

The best and fun way to deal with the halo effect is to create a “Treasure Garden”.  Identify a place in your yard that you can bury a few different types of coins, bottle caps, can tabs, a couple of metal buttons and even a small piece of gold jewelry. Try to vary the size and metal type of the items you want to bury.

Now it’s time to prepare “your treasure garden”:

- Turn your metal detector on and switch off any “discrimination.” Discrimination refers to the settings that allow your metal detector to reject signals from various types of buried metal.

- Sweep the designated garden area a couple of times, dig up and remove all existing metal objects. Once you have done this, there shouldn’t be any more signals.

- Take a few different metallic objects that you can bury such as coins and bottle caps. They should be made from different kinds of metal and be a in a variety of sizes. It is neat if you can also get a piece of gold jewelry to bury to see if your machine has the ability to be used for prospecting gold.

- Make sure that the items are buried at a variety of depths. They should be at least four feet apart.  Bury small items about two inches deep and large items up to twelve inches.

- Remember to mark the spots where the items are buried.  Also, create a map of your treasure garden in order to easily find all your things when you are finished.

- Allow the buried items enough time to develop a metallic halo by leaving them in the garden for a few days. Then you will be ready to have a good test of your new metal detector.

You have a great “treasure garden”.  It is time to search for your buried items. This exercise will help you learn how your machine works with the different signals.

Make sure to pay attention to the discrimination.  When you have a positive detection you should listen to the sound and watch the number values that your machine produces.

LET’S GO METAL DETECTING

Now that you have practiced with your new metal detector, you are ready to go on a real hunt.  Where do you go?  Following is a general list of the places that are known to yield interesting and valuable treasures.

Preparing For Your Hunt

They say half of the fun is in the hunt.  While that’s true, it is also true that if you go unprepared or leave something behind, it isn’t nearly as much fun.

A good example was the time a couple of us were on a metal detecting trip several hundred miles from home.  Another buddy was joining us later. When he arrived he had two small problems.  First the boots he brought were both for the right foot (he has two similar pair) plus, he forgot his metal detector.  Luckily we had a spare.

Make a list and check it twice.  Be sure you have all the equipment and items for the specific hunt.  As an example, you do not need to take a tent for a single day hunt.  However, you may want to take some rain gear, even if it is not predicted to rain – better to be prepared.  Make sure you have your list of the essentials.

We previously listed items you will need to have on every hunt.  Following are some other items that you should take on every excursion, except maybe to the beach.

- Protective cover for a backpack

- Raincoats or anything you can use to protect yourself and your equipment from drizzles or heavy rain

- Drinking water and water containers

- Insect repellent

- Map - very important – you need to know where you are going and how to get back.

- Extra pair of socks – just in case yours get wet

- Plastic bags to store your finds in until you get home

- Duct Tape – the all-purpose, fix anything miracle of science

- Food and snacks

- Sun glasses

- Sunscreen lotion

Where to Hunt

Remember you want to go metal detecting where people have gathered presently and in the past. Don’t count out current public areas that may have previously been hunted.  People are always losing things so these areas could yield good results, time after time.

You may not always find something every time you go “dirt fishing” for treasure, just as when you go fishing and the fish aren’t biting.  You may go to another spot and find where the fish are biting.  That’s the way it is with metal detecting.  It is really exciting when you find something of value or just something that is a “treasure” to you.  As with fishing when you catch the big one.

Following is a general list of the places that are known to yield both interesting and valuable treasures.

1. Parks and similar recreational areas

2. College campuses and old schools

3. Church sites, including existing and abandoned

4. Fair grounds both old and current

5. Picnic areas

6. Baseball, football and soccer fields and other sporting areas

7. Old and existing camp grounds

8. Local rodeo sites

9. Circus grounds

10. Abandoned homesteads and towns

11. Freshwater and saltwater beaches

12. Abandoned cellar holes

13. Abandoned commercial sites such as old taverns

14. Travel rest areas on highways

15. Flea Market areas, both current and old

16. Quarries

17. Cemeteries both old and existing (but don’t be a grave robber)

18. Abandoned railroad tracks

19. Historic sites, like battle sites

20. Old paths and trails

Planning the Hunt

Do I need a map? If you are going to begin your metal detecting in your local area, then all you will need is a local map identifying parks, historic sites, and public lands.  You may want to go to the county offices and see what maps and information they may have.  Another place for information and maps is the local state conservation offices.  First and foremost, count on your knowledge of the area.

If you are going into other counties or multiple target zones, you should plan on doing a little research.  This is particularly true if you are planning to find very old sites, as you will need maps that pinpoint old homesteads and other such areas.

While maps will, generally, locate old homesteads and gathering places, you should plan on walking through your spot first. You may be able to locate the remains of footings or indications of areas people occupied in the past.  Then you are ready to do some serious metal detecting.

Locating Good Spots

No matter what area you are hunting the most critical skill you will use to find the right spots is to observe and analyze your surroundings.

You probably don’t think you have this skill. It’s more likely you are not in the habit of analyzing your surroundings.  Now is a good time to start the practice of using this hidden skill.  In almost every successful metal detecting hunt, the hunter observed and analyzed in his mind his environment, searching for the right place to dig.

Even the most experienced metal detectorist developed his observation skills through practice.  So, get out there and hunt.  Start a journal to record your hunts and what you did on the hunt.  A great way to learn is by reviewing your journal.

Almost all successful metal detectorist have a trait of curiosity.  Be curious about the little things you see when you are on a hunt.  Sooner or later it will lead you to some great finds and caches.

Always look for anything that appears unnatural for the area. These areas could be where the treasures are hidden.  Anything that stands out, doesn’t look like it belongs to the current environment, and/or was not created by nature, should be investigated.

As an example, if you see a mound that has some visible old boards and a few bricks, it probably is not a natural mound and you should take a closer look at it.

When you arrive at your targeted area and before you start, take a closer look and choose the spots that you want to hit with your metal detector.  It is a time saving way to maximize your hunt and the results.

Invest in a GPS device that saves way points.  Then you can record areas where you find treasures or look promising but you did not have time to explore.  These spots can be great places for your next treasure hunt.

HOW DO I BECOME BETTER AT METAL DETECTING?

The best way to improve your skills is to practice – practice – practice!  Your skills will not improve by thinking about going on a hunt.  Rather, load your car with your equipment, call a friend or get a family member, and hit the road.  You will enjoy the time you spend in the field and who knows you might find the big cache on that hunt.

Another way to improve your metal detecting knowledge is to join your local metal detecting club.  If there isn’t one, think about starting one.  It is always fun to share your experience with others.

Naturally, there is the internet.  It is loaded with information about your new hobby. Join some metal detecting blogs.  Blogs are a great way to have conversations with other detectionist from around the world and a way to get help when you’re stuck and need advice.  One good site for metal detecting is http://metaldetectingworld.com.

I hope to see you in the field looking for that next great find.  Enjoy your new hobby and -- Lets Go Metal Detecting!

URGENT PLEA!

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