AQUAPONIC GARDENING

WILL COOK

Copyright © 2013 by Will Cook. All Rights Reserved.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Table of Contents

Why You Should Read This Book

What Is Aquaponics - The Basics

Troubleshooting And Maintenance Tips

How Much Does It Cost?

What Fish Are Best For Aquaponics

What Do You Grow In Your Aquaponics Farm?

Aquaponics as a Micro Commercial Venture

Grants for aquaponic farms

Aquaculture Permits

References & Resources

Connect With Tom

About The Author

Other Books By Tom Corson-Knowles

Excerpt From The Vertical Gardening Guidebook

About The Author

Recommended Books on Gardening and Sustainability

WHY YOU SHOULD READ THIS BOOK

You should read this e-book first of all because it is fun to learn what you can do with a little ingenuity and a lot of natural resources. Aquaponics is a mix of two types of farming, i.e. aquaculture or growing fish and hydroponics or growing plants without soil.  Hydroponics or growing plants without soil was tried out as an attempt to find other means to grow food in case the Earth loses the great part of its soil to development, residential facilities, erosion, and pollution there would still be some way to grow food.

Hydroponics involved a lot of chemicals – especially chemical fertilizers – to promote and sustain the growth of the plants. This in turn resulted in food laden with chemicals, which did not really appeal as food. The addition of the fish culture to the water system (hydroponics farming) provided the much needed nutrients the plants required and hence, ensure that the produce is 100% natural. In this way, both systems becomes interdependent and support one another to make a complete ecosystem.

In other words, you will have happy fish and an excellent garden producing excellent, healthy and organic food the year round.

THE BENEFITS OF AQUAPONICS

There are many benefits you will get from aquaponics are plenty. A few are listed here to ensure that you are aware of what a priceless system this can be:

- More Plants - It can produce 10 times more organic plants as the plants float on water that provides all the nutrients the plants need without any crowding.

- No Weeding - The greatest gift of aquaponics is that you get a wonderful garden without the pains of weeding.

- No Pests – there is no soil and there are no pests. No more worrying about how to eliminate the pests without killing your own plants or poisoning your pets.

- No Watering – besides the fact that you will no longer worry about your plants dying from lack of water, you also save water. Did you know that aquaponics required only 2% the water one use for regular gardening. You save 98% of the water – can you imagine how important this can be to the planet, in general?

- Plants Grow Bigger And Faster – it takes half the time for the plants to develop into fully grown specimens, and they grow larger and better. Keeping in view that everything grown through this system is 100% organic, this is excellent good news.

- Minimum Space Maximum Output – it is possible to grow 6 tons of organic produce on just 1/10 of an acre[1] of land/water. Nothing known to man today can compare to this.

WHAT IS AQUAPONICS - THE BASICS

As mentioned earlier aquaponics is a cross between aquaculture and hydroponics. It is actually an improvement upon hydroponics, which required too many chemicals to have the plants grow healthy and productive.

This is a system where fish and plants create a symbiotic ecosystem, which help them not only to survive but grow and thrive. The waste product of the fish is processed and turned into good nutrients by the good bacteria living in the water. These nutrients help the plants grow without the use of chemicals or even soil. Aquaponic is also called the soilless farming because there is no soil required for growing food this way.

Before you go for setting up your aquaponics system, take a look at a few basics and advice that will help you avoid too much trouble – especially if you knew nothing about aquaponics before reading this eBook.

WHAT ARE GROW BEDS?

The plants are ‘planted’ in grow beds which are washed with the nutrient filled water. The plants absorb as much as they need from the nutrient-filled water after which it returns back into the fish tank. There are many types of systems of aquaponics which will look into a little later. Some grow beds use a bed medium such as pea gravel or clay pellets, some use just the water and some do not use anything where the roots of the plants would hang in the air.

To have a healthy grow bed you will need four important factors, i.e. (1) support to the plant so it would not topple over into the water, (2) nutrients to the roots, (3) oxygen to the roots by exposing them to the air and (4) water to the roots. Water and nutrients are fed to the plant at the same time in aquaponics, support is provided by building racks wherever required and oxygen is offered by suspending the roots in the air.

WHAT IS THE BEST GROW BED?

There are many type of grow beds as you will learn later in this eBook. However, from among all the media grow bed is the best  when compared to the NFT (nutrient film technique) and DWC (deep water culture)  grow beds. This is because this system does almost all the work for you and you are left with just enjoying the fruits of the system. This type of grow bed is able to filter the water thrice, i.e. it removes the mechanical solids, breaks down the solids and cycles the water (process is called mineralization) and lastly is serves as a bio filter.

In other words, it does all the work needed to ensure that the plants have an excellent medium to grow in – and you will enjoy all the praise without really lifting a finger.

HOW TO DETERMINE THE SIZE OF THE FISH TANK?

The minimum you should aim at if you really want a worthy aquaponics system is about 1000 liters (264 gallons) – provided of course, you have the space and flexibility needed  to set this system up.  It is recommended that beginners start with large tanks because it allows for more trial and error rounds before hitting upon the right formula. A small tank does not give you that luxury.

Experts recommend about 20-25 fish per 132 gallons of water assuming that the grow beds are at least 12 inches deep. Of course, it will also depend upon the size of the fish in adulthood and how fast they grow.

The best way to calculate how many fish are optimal for your tank is 1:1 in the first 6 months and after that if the system is running perfectly smooth, you can go to a ratio of grow bed to fish of 2:1. Test and re-test the system and do not move on until you are sure that the system will survive the change.

TEMPERATURE AND WATER QUALITY

Different fish need different temperature. The best for a beginner is to get fish that easily adapts to a wide variation in water temperature. Again, it is better to use fish that would be happy to live in the natural temperature of the place where you live. Heating or cooling the water will leave scope for mistakes – not to mention that it costs money to sustain and maintain. In case the winters are a little cooler, you can always attract the sun (and heat) by darkening the fish tank by covering it with black sheets.

PH LEVELS OF THE AQUAPONICS FARM

The pH level of the system should be maintained at about 6.8 – 7.3. This means it is just right. Below 6.5 it will become too acidic to keep the fish happy and above 7.5 it would be too alkaline. You will learn later in the eBook about ways to ensure that the balance is maintained here. This is one of the most important aspects of the aquaponics farm for movement in either direction means that your fish will die, which in turn will kill your plants.

To increase the pH levels you could use among others calcium hydroxide (hydrated lime), potassium bicarbonate or potassium carbonate. To bring the levels down you could use nitric acid or phosphoric acids.

Invest in a good measuring kit for pH levels and ensure that you measure it every week about 3-4 times.

GET THE RIGHT FISH

There are plenty of fish to choose from. You have to decide first whether you want to showcase the fish or consume them. Many people enjoy growing food through aquaponics, - vegetables and fish – for own consumption or for income generation. Choose your fish on the basis of your preference. If you are looking for selling the fish, it would be great if you look around in the local market initially and see what is in demand.

Another important thing to keep in mind is that you can buy fish at the cheapest stage, i.e. fry stage. However, you cannot mix the fry with adult fish as the latter will eat them up. You will need to wait until they are larger (fishlings) before you can introduce them to the tank. You can buy at every stage – but the larger they are the more expensive they are likely to be.

FEEDING THE FISH

An adult fish will consume about 1% of its own body weight every day. On the hand, the fry eats about 7% its body weight.  The rule of the thumb is you should feed your fish just about they would completely finish within 3-5 minutes.

If the fish are not eating, immediately check for causes. The system could be malfunctioning and there is no enough oxygen in the water, the pH levels are off, or the temperature might be wrong.

GROWING THE BEST PLANTS

You can grow almost everything with aquaponics – including root vegetables such as carrot, potatoes and other such veggies – but it takes time for you to learn all there is to learn about this type of farming. To grow plants you could use any of the following methods:

BROADCAST THE SEEDS

In this method you just take a handful of seeds and scatter them all around the environment. With this method you need to keep in mind that you should keep the environment moist and warm. This method works great for lettuce, radish, carrot and normally plants that need to be sowed in the spring.

PRE-GERMINATE YOUR SEEDS

Seeds that are larger such as that of melons, peas, beans, and cucumber will not germinate easily and hence the broadcast method would not really work with them. Start germinating these seeds on wet paper towels. Wait until they grow a root of about 25 mm before you transfer them to their grow beds.

Be careful about positioning your plants – these are more permanent level so you might need to think about how your beds would look. Plants in aquaponics do not require much space because they do not get their food from the soil but from the system. Hence, you could allot the minimum necessary to ensure that it will grow a good root.

Pay attention to the sunlight, air and ventilation of the plants. Do not worry – unlike the soil-planted plant, you could always move around these plants and re-design your grow bed. Of course, with the exception of those plants who climb on racks for it would be difficult to shift the plant.

You can feed the bugs that you find on the plants to the fish. Do not use any type of insecticide or you will kill not only your pests but also your fish and your system will collapse. Spray the bugs with water and push them into the fish tank. You can also get other bugs  to eat the pest bugs.

3 MOST POPULAR TYPES AQUAPONICS SYSTEMS

There are many aquaponics systems starting from the simplest and small ones to the large commercial types. The fact remains that ALL the types are actually very simple. The difference are their placement and applications. You can start with the home DIY aquaponics system and expand into a large system later according to whatever you feel you can handle.

Each known system depends upon what you have in mind to grow, what type of materials you can buy or get, your budget, the time you can accord to your aquaponics farm and what is force that motivates you to do this. Among the many known systems here are some that you will hear about:

NFT (NUTRIENT FILM TECHNIQUE) AQUAPONIC SYSTEM

In this system the roots of the plants sit in very shallow trays  where a very thin (so thin that it can be compared with a film of water) layer of water to continuously run by. The roots take their nutrients from there and grow, and the water in continuously rotated in this way from the fish tank to the plants and back.

To make this happen the plants are placed in small cups which are in turn, enclosed in small gutters that are washed continuously with a trail of water. The roots are able to take in all the nutrients they need through this system. The downside here is that this system is best only for green leafy vegetables and flowers as anything else would be too heavy for the system.

DEEP WATER CULTURE (DWC) AQUAPONICS SYSTEM

In this system the plants are kept floating on the top of the water. Here the roots will grow hanging down towards the water; often into the water. A small raft of foam is built to ensure that the plants can float and yet have total  access to the water.

There is another way to do this, i.e. get the water from the fish tank pumped up through filter and long channels right to the floating rafts where the plants are kept. In this way, the plants take in whatever nutrients they require while the water returns into the fish tank.

MEDIA FILLED BEDS AQUAPONICS SYSTEM

This is perhaps the easiest and hence, the most popular for startup aquaculture systems. This is the system that is usually taken up for school projects, home first aquaculture hobby, or just a first DIY home beautifying project.

In this system there are large about 12 inch deep containers that are filled with media – this could be pea gravel or expanded clay pellets or anything similar – and have the plants grow on to this media. To give nutrients to the plants there are two ways – (i) have water dribble over the gravel/ pebbles continuously where the plants get their nutrients from the water that is passing through the media back into the tank, and (ii) by flooding the media filled beds and then waiting for the water to completely drain before flooding it again.

THE MOST POPULAR AQUAPONICS DIY PROJECTS

There are many DIY aquaponics systems that can be easily built at home. In fact. Once you understand the principles that drive this extremely innovative and popular eco-system anyone can build one at home on a small or large scale. It is easy to build as it is exciting. Among the most popular DIY projects are:

DIY 1 - CHIFT PIST SYSTEMS

In this system (see picture) you need a plant tray where you fill the grow bed with media, have a sump that collects water that drains from the grow bed, and a very tall (that should be taller that the grow bed) fish tank. The fish tank has a pipe that ensures that the water flows back into the sump when it overflows.

There will be a SLO or solids lift overflow which will help lift the solids from the bottom of the tank through the pipe to the grow bed where the plants use it as nutrients. Setting up timers is not possible for the pump for it requires a great amount of water to be pushed up into it overflows in the grow bed and then cycled back.

DIY 2 – SIMPLE FLOOD N DRAIN SYSTEM

In this type of DIY project you do away with the sump and hence, you will have a very simple system that uses either a timer on the pump or a siphon in the grow bed itself. Each one of the methods has its own advantage and disadvantage and cannot be really compared to find a winner. You need to decide which one you would actually want and go for a trial of a few months and see of that suits you.

Most people though feel that the siphons would always cause some or other trouble, and hence consider the stand pipe the easiest, safest and best of the two methods. In this case the grow bed would best use the flood and drain action for the   aquaponics farming.

You can check out the video given here for some practical details that will help understand better - http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=lDQMSAgC5Zs

DIY 3 - BARREL AQUAPONIC SYSTEM

This is a great way to get your aquaponic system up and running for the minimum investment. The barrel system is done completely from recycled stuff, the main ingredient being the round plastic barrels used to transport whatever liquid material. You can of course do it with the rectangular plastic containers as well.

The BackyardAquaponics.com sells starter kits with i-barrels and T-barrels (see picture) but you can very well do it yourself over one weekend. An example given in the BackyardAquaponics.com (see picture) will give you an idea of how you could build your own system. But let your own   imagination run free and you can do it in your own style.

MATERIAL FOR YOUR AQUAPONICS FARM

AT the end of this book there are quite a few references and resources given that will help you build your own system or help you decide how and where to buy one from. For those who love DIY projects, this is something that can give a lot of joy. From a fun-filled hobby this can become a fascination and then an obsession as there is nothing more beautiful and fulfilling that to watch something the you created that continuously reinvents itself.

You can start with the simplest DIY system and aim at growing enough food for your own family at first. Trust me, it never remains that small. As you expand, you will grow in experience and food produce and you can start selling the surplus – not only plants but also fish. That is why it is advisable to use fish that is locally in demand either for food or for aquarium (gold fish) so you could sell the excess or grown up fish for a very handsome return.

You can choose material for your tanks keep in mind that water can fast add to the weight of the system and it can collapse. Avoid low quality plastic as it heats in summer time releasing toxins into the water. Use high grade plastic if you may and ensure that the tanks are completely water proof.

The best material should food-safe material, non-toxic and inert. Remember any compromise here and you will end up eating the toxins – for these would go both in the plants you grow as well as the fish. Use large tanks that would be 30, 50 or 250 gallon tanks for the fish and the rest of the system.

START YOUR AQUAPONIC SYSTEM

When all your ingredients for the system are in place – bought or made – you will need to start the system and for this you will need a lot of patience; a lot of patience.

WATER

Start with the collecting water for your system. NEVER ever put water directly from the tap into your system. The tap water normally is chlorinated and this will kill your fish. Usually letting the water “rest” for 24-48 hours would take care of the chlorine in the water. However, sometimes the water would be treated with chloramines in which case you will need a chemical neutralizer to get your water to the level you require. Find out what type of water comes out from your tap with the help of a simple and fast test. This will help you decide how to treat the water to ensure it is perfect for your fish and plants.

Locate your system in such a manner that the fish get enough shade (they thrive well when they are not directly exposed to sunlight) and plants get plenty of sunlight. Check and recheck that all the pipes are correctly connected, the timers – if any are working properly – and ensure that the draining system works well. When you are 100% satisfied that your system works well, add a bacteria boost to the system from the local aquarium, a lake or river.

It is advisable that you do a fishless cycling first; and if you do, you will need to add 1 teaspoon of urea or PURE ammonia two times a week to facilitate the growth of the “good bacteria”. “Pure ammonia” here means where the only ingredients are ammonium hydroxide and water. Any other ingredient and you will kill your fish. About 15% ammonia is a good start; it should not exceed 25% at the beginning of the cycle.

This process is best when the levels of ammonia in the water is recorded as below 1. Keep the process repeating until you get “zero” for the reading for nitrites. Ammonia should not be added for at least 3 days before the fish are introduced into the tank.

Introduce a few fish initially and do not take it to heart if some fish die in the process – especially if you are a newbie and have not yet learned to read the signs wells. Add a few fish, check the levels of ammonium, nitrite, pH and nitrate once week. The ideal readings should be when the water contains 0 levels ammonia and 0 level nitrite. But before you get there, you will need to run the cycle for a few weeks.

Signs that your system has stabilized can be seen from algae growth. Check the temperature and the levels of nitrate, nitrite, pH and ammonia with test kits which can be bought at any pet (aquarium) store. Keep a daily log of the reading and record the statistics after every change you make to the system. This will help professionals to troubleshoot the problem in case your system does not stabilize say in about 2-3 weeks.

At the end of 2 weeks, if all is done correctly the system should have cycled and you will have the nitrite levels read ‘zero’. After you get the levels at ‘zero’ run it for another one week to be sure that it has stabilized. Add testing fish initially – not the fish you intend to grow – a few at a time. At the same time add plants. Give the system time to adjust and gradually add both fish and plants till you complete your eco-system.

WHAT DOES "CYCLING" MEAN IN AQUAPONICS?

We spoke so  much about cycling and you would have guessed what this is. However, do you really know what ‘cycling’ means? In aquaponics, cycling a system means growing enough good bacteria to support a load of fish and plants. The job of these bacteria is to convert ammonia through nitrate and they can do that only when they are in enough strength. These bacteria would be growing mostly in the grow beds because these provide the largest breeding area.

Use a test kit and check the levels of ammonia, nitrate and nitrite in the water and throwing a few fish into the water along with planting a few plants in your aquaponics system. The ammonia levels will drop as the bacteria start breeding and you will see the nitrite levels increasing. Subsequently the nitrite too will fall and nitrate will increase. Ultimately, you will have all reading “Zero” and that is when you system is ready for the whole load. Of course, you need to introduce fish and plants in a delicately balanced form before your system runs at full capacity.

Ammonia and nitrite are poisonous to the fish – hence, it is very important that you have a cycled system before you introduce the fish. The cycling can be fast-forwarded by introducing bacteria from an already working system or fish tank or fish pond.

SIX EASY AND COMMON METHODS OF CYCLING

There are quite a few methods of cycling; here are a few that you may like to consider using:

THE PURE AMMONIA METHOD

This is the most common method used for cycling. Introduce ammonia to the system but be very careful that you do not overdose the system. Start with 10-15% and never go above 25%. Keep testing the water to ensure all is good.

THE FEEDER FISH OR FINGERLINGS METHOD

One of the easiest ways to cycle a system is by introducing bronze comets (fish) or goldfish into the tank and fed the minimum, i.e. maximum 1 tablespoon of feed per day for the first two months for 500 liters of water. After two months gradually increase the feed until the fish are getting as much as they deserve.

THE FISH FEED METHOD

In this method you just add the fish feed into the tank without introducing fish. As the feed breaks down in to the water it will start producing ammonia and the good bacteria can feed on it and grow fast.

THE DEAD FISH OR PRAWN METHOD

A decomposing carcass is also a great source of ammonia. You can drop a few rotting fish into the tank or a dead crustacean. As it decomposes, it will release enough ammonia to feed the bacteria and promote their growth.

THE UREA FERTILIZER METHOD

In this method, you add area fertilizer – which you could buy from nurseries, hardware stores, and/ or agricultural suppliers – to the water. The ammonia produced is excellent for feeding the good bacteria. However, you need to be careful about the levels of ammonia; test the waters often.

THE PEE CYCLING METHOD

This sounds a little gross, but if you remember that urine contains a high amount of urea you will understand. The urine should be aged for 3-7 days before added to the water. Aging should be done in an open and well-ventilated area. This will work only if you (or the urine “donor”) is not taking any type of medication.

ADJUSTING PH IN YOUR AQUAPONICS SYSTEM

There are many readymade products that will help you balance the pH in your aquaponics system. A kit could cost as little as $15. You should always have one handy because it is important that you keep a close tab on the pH levels of your fish tanks. Normally plants in aquaponics systems are happy with a pH level of 5.8 to 6.8 and the fish is happy with about 7.1 to 7.5. A reading of 7.0 will tell you that the pH level is neutral.

Commercial kits will offer you a “pH up” solution – which contains potassium hydroxide and potassium carbonate - that you will need to add to your system when you need to raise the levels and another solution with a “pH down” solution – which normally is food grade phosphoric acid - when the levels are too high and you need to get down a little.

Be careful with all of these substances, read the labels carefully, and use gloves when handling them, both the liquid and the dry formulas. You also need to a high quality pH tester to ensure that the reading of the pH levels of your system is accurate.  It would be murder literally if you end up with wrong readings. Providing the correct pH and keeping within a healthy range will keep both fish and plants happier and more productive.

ADJUST PH LEVELS NATURALLY

You can also adjust the pH levels naturally – which is a lot better but needs experience – with these tips.

- Be careful about adjusting the levels too fast. If the pH levels are changing by just .2 quickly can be very dangerous to your system.

- If your system crashed, before you set it right identify what brought on the crash.

- Keep in mind that large particles of natural remedy work slower and small (or crushed remedies) work faster.

- Keep in mind that it is much easier to increase the pH level than to decrease it.

- To increase the pH level use sodium bicarbonate or baking soda, calcium carbonate (snail shells, egg shells, or sea shells) or limestone readily available.

- To increase pH levels you can also add crushed sea shells (wash and boil them to ensure that you do not inadvertently introduce bad bacteria or harmful viruses into your system).  The same effect will happen if you add crushed coral to the water – you will find it in all regular aquarium stores.

- To decrease the pH levels use pure citric acid (lime or lemon juice), vinegar, iron sulfate fertilizer (you can buy it from any store), peat moss, deadwood and pine straw.

LIGHT

Your plants will need plenty of sunlight. Place your plants in such a manner that they will get the required light throughout the day. In case they need less than the sunlight they get, ensure that you build sheds. This is why it is very important that you chose the right climate for your system. The more natural the environment, the less you will have to worry about making adjustments to ensure that your plants are happy.

The fish on the other hand like it with less sunlight. This is why you may keep the tanks covered and shaded as much as possible.

TROUBLESHOOTING AND MAINTENANCE TIPS

The aquaponics system is not fail proof and as such you should be prepared for any eventuality so you could salvage the maximum life when such mishap occurs. Here are a few critical tips that you should  follow to ensure the safety of your aquaponic system:

MAKE YOUR SYSTEM FAIL PROOF

- Keep ready 100% pure sea salt – ensure that it NOT iodized salt – for treating fish that have been quarantined for sickness and also to add micro-nutrients to the fish tank water.

- Keep a large bucket and/or cooler  along with a air pump for those times when the system needs instant back-up.  You can immediate transfer sick fish in the bucket.

- Maintain a barrel/ large bucket of dechlorinated water handy in case you need to top up the water in the tank at any time. You should ensure that the water level should never reduce more than 10%.

- Plant continuously and at regular intervals so you will not have a system crash when all mature plants die all at once. There should always be a balance between the plants that die and new plants that come up.

- Be ready to handle a system failure. Have ready to use pumps and batteries backup system in the event of electricity outage and/ or equipment technical failure. Have the ancillary system able to take over in the event of any type of failure. Call a professional for the backup system in case you are not very sure about how to set it up. The backup system should be able to take over the whole main operation seamlessly.

- Have air pumps installed as the extra aeration will ensure a much healthier system as it will have more dissolved oxygen.

- Generally the water temperature is best when maintained at 26C degrees or 80F degrees. However, it also depends upon what type of fish you are using in your system.

- Research and learn as much as it is possible about the fish you are using. You should – in time – be an expert at handling the animals in your tank. The same is important for the plants that you are growing. The more you know about the components of your system the better would your system work.

TAKE CARE OF YOUR PLANTS

- You need to ensure that the growth of your plants is staggered  so it would sustain your aquaponic system. If all the plants grow together and die together your system will crash.

- Plant seedlings and seeds alternately. When you plant the seedlings ensure that the roots are washed thoroughly and there is no soil attached. When soil enters the system there is a risk of introducing bad bacteria into the system.

- Stagger the planting. Plant 1/4 of your plants in the first week; another 1/4 in the third week; another 1/4 in the fifth week and the last 1/4 after two more weeks. This means that for every dead plant there would be a back up enough to keep the system running smoothly. Keep the planting cycle on to ensure the health of your system.

WATER

- The water’s pH level should not be lower than 5.5. It is best to keep it above 6.4 and below 7.5. Too alkaline water is not good for your fish or plants in the system.

- Learn to recognize  early signs of a system crash. The fish will the first who will show distress; they will swim frantically at the surface trying desperately to breathe in oxygen which is no longer available in adequate quantities in the water. This is known as ‘piping’ and it happens when the oxygen in the water is produced at lower rates than it is consumed by the fish in the tank. Immediately run the aerating pumps and adds oxygen to the water. Also check the water’s pH and if it is too low increase it – however, be careful that you do not do it too fast as that too, would kill your fish.

- If the water is dirty, cloudy or green. The water is not filtered well. Feed your fish less or stop it for a few days; the water should clear within 7 days. If the water is still cloudy and dirty, check for blockages and re-filter the water.

- When water levels are falling fast you need to check whether the plants are not too big for the water. The larger the plants the more water they will use. Also check for leaks. Top up with dechlorinated water to maintain levels.

FISH

- The fish food should be consumed within 3 minimum maximum. If food is still left, remove it from the tank or this would sink and decompose creating toxicity in the water.

- Feed your fish once or maximum twice a day. Learn how much is optimum feeding for your fish and do not overfeed.

- Use a wide variety – if available – of fish food to ensure that the fish are healthy and happy. A diet alternating pellets and worms is good. Check out to see whether you fish would eat bloodworms/ earthworms/ compost worms – these would be growing in your grow beds and hence should not be a problem.

- An excellent low-cost way to attract free food is to keep a LED slightly submersed in the tank at various places. This will attract bugs and insects in the night and your fish would have a great feast at no cost to you.

- During breeding season keep a close eye for the fry (baby fish) and remove them from the tank lest the adult fish eat them up.

- Feed your fry with nematodes (microworms), soaked oatmeal (which has totally softened), and brine shrimp.

- You can also use the 7 days fish feeder blocks, but keep in mind that these are designed to work optimally in water with neutral pH, i.e. 7.0 reading. If it is more, it will dissolve much slower; if the pH is lower it will dissolve faster. So, make your plans accordingly. It is best to use these blocks only when the pH levels are within 6.8-7.2 levels.

- Use duckweed to feed your fish. Keep in mind that this is an acquired taste; it will take a while for your fish to take to duckweed so be patient. Duckweed, which is the second smallest flowering water plant (the smallest is watermeal), consist of 45% protein and many essential amino acids.  Beware however, that while this plant produces oxygen during sunny days, it consumes oxygen at night and on cloudy days.

- Fish might get the “itch disease”. This is caused by a parasite which gets attached to the fish body and looks like tiny sand grain size white spots. If your fish look like they are suffering from itch, act fast for this parasite will attack all the fish in the tank. Raise the temperature – know the limits of your fish or you will kill them; the itch parasite dies at 86F degrees or 30C degrees. If you are not sure about the temperature limit of your fish use 1 tablespoon of sea salt (be sure it is not iodized) per 1 gallon water.  Increase it slightly is at first it does not work; beware that higher concentration of sea salt will harm your plants.

- Sometimes the fish look like they have algae sticking to them. This is NOT algae; it is fungus growth. Immediately consult your local aquarium shop for remedy.

- Fish are diminishing in numbers. If this is happening put a mesh over the tank as some creature is catching and eating them or they are jumping out of the tank.

POWER PROBLEMS

- You may live in an area where power outage is a common feature. In such cases have a set (or even two) of emergency battery ready to take over. Have these batteries connected to the air  pumps and have the connection fit to an uninterrupted power supply (UPS) backup.  Have dechlorinated ice on the stand by to add to the tank; this will release oxygen as it melts giving you time to work out a backup.

- Be ready for pump problems. If your pumps stop, your system will crash within 24 hours. Immediately use battery operated air pump to ensure that fish do not go into distress. Have a backup pumps ready for such an emergency.

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?

Expect the average cost of a home aquaponics system range between $1,000 - $8,000. The cost of an aquaponics system varies on several factors such as the location, labor costs, cost of installing the system itself,  the materials used (such as the tanks, aquarium, aquatic animals, and plant variety), and maintenance.

You can purchase an Aquaponics System at Theaquaponicstore.com for about $1,595 - $4,195.  An Aquaponics System that consists of 3 beds would  cost you about $1,595 while a Modular Sleek Aquaponics System with 2 beds will cost about $1,895.  Another type with 4 beds bear the price tag of $2,495 while 6 Bed aquaponics system will cost you about $4,195.  You will also need a plumbing kit, which costs about $110. The most common fish fingerlings for aquaculture systems – the tilapia – cost about $60. The price will vary with the type of animals you buy.

Of course, there are system that costs much more than that – there are commercial versions that cost as  much as $20,000. For example, building a system in northern parts of the United States would cost much more considering that the climate is much colder in those parts and will require heating during the cold months. This will bring the cost up close to $50,000 or even more as it would require heating, and professional help.

WHAT WOULD A READYMADE SYSTEM INCLUDE

Generally, an aquaponics system would be an amalgamation of hydroponic and aquaculture farming techniques.  The hydroponic system is used to cycle the by-products from aquaculture, which are often known as “effluents”. These  accumulate in the water and are worked upon and broken down by nitrogen fixing bacteria.  The plants that are cultivated in the water use these by-products as nourishment with which they grow, flower and fruit.  Through this process, these plants help filter the water and recycle the water.

A typical aquaponic system would consist of:

- the rearing tank, the fish are bred, grown and maintained;

- the solids removal, which will catch uneaten food;

- the biofilter, which converts ammonia and nitrates; and

- the subsystem, which helps plants grow by absorbing the nutrients from the water.

- the sump, which will pump the remaining clean water back into the tank.

Other systems would include a re-circulating, reciprocating and trickle-fed system.

WHAT ARE THE EXTRA COSTS?

You will need to learn a lot about this system before you can start and run one on your own. The best is to start with a DIY project that will teach by and by how to handle each situation. To help you to run and maintain a healthy system you  should purchase aquaponics guide, which can cost you $30 if you want a quick step-by-step guide and it could as expensive as $250 for an in-depth manual. Check the Amazon.com for guides on aquaponics. There are a number of free resources given at the end of this book; check it out.

In many cases, especially if you are a novice you might need the help of professional help. Check HomeAdvisor.com to connect with the type of professionals you require for this job. Their fees would depend upon what you have in mind and what type of experts they are.

Other extra costs would be fish food ($33 for 10 pounds), pH measuring kit ($15-$30), bell siphons ($60), and next cups ( $30 for 200).

HOW CAN I SAVE MONEY?

You can save money by learning to be self dependent.

-  Learn how to set up and maintain your aquaponics system without outside help.  This would cut the necessity of investing extra for labor and hence, save you money.

- As soon as the aquaponics system is installed, purchase all the tools and materials that will help you care for it properly.  This would mean that you need to make an initial investment; however, in the long run it will more than pay you back as you will be able to run your system more efficiently.  Without this knowledge, you may end up wasting your time, effort and money just because you could not set up and/ or maintain the system properly.

- Set up you first aquaponics system in a place where you have favorable weather for your fish and plants. This will save you money that you would have otherwise spent to ensure that your system runs heated environment for your fish and plants.

WHAT DO I NEED TO DO IF I GO AWAY ON A VACATION?

You can always set up timers that will run your aquaponics system as efficiently as if you would be present. Of course, before you leave you need to put to test the whole system and anticipate any type of trouble or failure. While an automatic system (run by timers) is okay say for about 3-7 days anything longer than that would need human supervision. Have someone drop by maybe once in 2-3 days to feed the fish and check the wear and tear of the system and ensure that everything moves smoothly.

If you are gone for a week to ten days, do not worry about the fish. They would be okay even if there is no one to feed them. They will definitely get hungry, but they will be no worse for it. However, if you stay any longer you will need to have someone come along and feed them or get those hanging slow releasing worm/ pellets releasing baskets than can feel your fish for longer periods.

Generally, if you system is stable all that is needed for your system to keep going is feeding the fish once in 2-3 days; nothing more. So, anyone can do this as it is not necessary for you to look for any aquaponics expert to take care of your system in your absence.

The key is to make sure your system is stable and working before you go away (e.g. check to make sure no drains are about to become clogged with roots, that your system has adequate pH buffering, your pumps still work and your water parameters look ok). The plants, of course don't need daily (or even weekly intervention); just pull out all the large weeds if there – before you go away for several months.

WHAT FISH ARE BEST FOR AQUAPONICS

There are no prefect fish for any aquaponics system yet. However, if you are a little careful you will find plenty of fish type that you could use in your aquaponics garden. To be sure that you have the right fish, you need to choose species that possess the following attributes:

- should be capable to breed in captivity without too much effort or pampering;

- their young should be strong and capable of surviving a few ups and downs in the system;

- their life cycle should be well research and easy to support in captivity;

- must be capable to adapt easily in different systems;

- must be okay living with other species of fishes;

- must be okay with crowding and artificial food resources;

- should be strong enough to survive the harvesting and transporting processes;

- should be resistant to infections, disease and parasite infections;

- should not be a fish that turns cannibal or territorial as this would disturb the other fishes in the tank;

- should be cost efficient and easily available in the market – fishlings and adults;

- should be able to expel a lot of excreta;

- should be in demand as food in the market – in case you want to sell the fish once it is grown;

- should have low mortality rate and long life in captivity.

TYPES OF FISH YOU COULD CONSIDER FOR AQUAPONICS

There are many types of fish that fulfill all these characteristics. Here are a few  among the best suited fish for this purpose. When selecting the best fish for aquaponics gardening, the most important thing to keep in mind is to choose freshwater fish.

CARP

The carp is the number one choice for aquaculture in Asian and European countries because it grows very fast, it is easy to handle and it very tolerant of changes and gives high production. In the US it is not as popular as food simply because it has too many bones.

It is possible however to develop and nurture a market in the USA as well, but only when the fish is processed, i.e. smoked, canned and cut in the shape of fillets. This fish is so popular in aquaculture that it account for 40% of the total aquaculture production of fish.

SALMON

The salmon is another extremely popular fish bred for aquaculture because it grows fast – in 2 years it would grow to weight about 4-6 pounds – are in high demand in the market and they are easy to grow.

Salmon is the 4 most popular and in demand seafood in the USA.

TILAPIA

This fish is one of the most common fish used in aquaponics. These are tropical fish and need warm water and they are very tolerant to crowded environment in a tank. They are omnivorous and their young are not devoured by their parents because they skip the planktonic phase.

These fish grow fast and they least fastidious about their surroundings. By the time they reach 3-5 years of age, they would be weighing about 6 pounds. The meat of tilapia is white and mildly flavored, which is quite popular as food.

ARCTIC CHAR

This fish is most common in the northern climates as they do not require warm water to thrive. They have a lot in common with salmon and trout, which makes this species of fish excellent choice for aquaponics. The fact that they do not need warm water make it cheaper to raise in colder climates. As adult fish they would easily reach a weight of 4-5 pounds, which is why they are also highly profitable commercially.

Restaurants and people love this fish for their similarity to salmon and trout.

CATFISH

Catfish is one of the most often chosen species in commercial aquaponics. There is a particular species that is the hot favorite in this type of gardening, i.e. the ‘channel catfish’. They grow exceptionally well in Southern climates and are very tasty as fish meat. Most high-end restaurants will have in on their menu.

This fish is highly versatile and adaptable. They are okay in both cold and warm water and they grow very fast, which is a real delight for those who farm the fish.

They are happy with readymade pellet protein mix for food; yet they would also eat worms, insect larvae, and molluscs.

KOI FISH

This breed is not for eating but used as decorative pets. The advantages with this fish is that they live long, have a very strong resistance against pests and love the aquaponic system. These fish are omnivorous, i.e. they eat both veggies and meat. Feed them a wide variety of food and they will be happy.

PERCH

Perch fish are carnivorous and they can be quite expensive to maintain. Do not buy this fish unless you think it is still making you a profit when you sell them as adult fish. The fingerlings of this type of fish might not be available all year round which means that you have to plan your system very carefully.

On the advantage side, the perch is a fish that contains the highest levels of omega3 oils in the whole aquaponics repertoire of fish.

TROUT

This type of fish is an excellent choice for they grow quickly and are in high demand anywhere you go. They thrive in temperatures ranging between 50-68F degrees. They are excellent for aquaponics for they have a high waste conversion ratios.

GOLDFISH

Goldfish is the smaller species of the carp family – though people do not eat goldfish. You can have 5-10 goldfish for every gallon of water. The advantage with this breed is that is breeds fast and they live a long life. They get along very well with the perch and bass.

They will need to have plant cover inside the fish tank if you want them to breed optimally. And if you provide the best environment you will have more goldfish you can handle in no time.

WHAT OTHER ANIMALS YOU CAN HAVE?

These are the fish you could grow to manage your aquaponic garden. Besides the fish, which is one of the tri-party system you could also use other water animals such as crustaceans, mussels, fresh water prawns, and fresh water crayfish. These animals would be very happy in fish tanks as well as flooded grow beds.  Among the crustaceans, the Redclaw – which is a native of Australia – is a great choice if you live in tropical countries. For the cooler climates, try the Yabbies.

The Yabbies can breed like rabbits when the environment is suitable  and they have long daylight hours. This is a great choice because they grow fast, they are beautiful to see and yummy to eat and they are in demand wherever you go. Watch out for one thing though – the Tabby as well as the RedClaw are prone to cannibalism and territorial fights when the place is too small (too densely populated).

There are other species of freshwater aquatic animals that are ideal for aquaponics. Just have a look around your local area for availability or talk to your local fish growers.

WARNING! Be aware that turtles and snails may be harmful to an aquaponics system. Turtles have been known to enjoy eating fish and snails are notorious for reproducing beyond control.

HOW MANY FISH IS OPTIMAL?

It definitely depends upon what type of system you are rigging and how many plants you are planning to support. It is easy to choose higher density, but with it comes a lot of risk for a small mistake can offset the system very easily when the fish density is high. Keep a close watch on parameters of the water when your fish are too densely packed in the tank.

It is better to start your system with a lower number of fish as this would involve less risk for your aquaponics farm. You will be amazed with the growth rate with low density tanks. An 8 bed aquaponic system can be beautifully maintained with just 70 fish, i.e. about 9 fish per grow bed.

WHAT DO YOU GROW IN YOUR AQUAPONICS FARM?

The first question when you are looking into aquaponics is what are the best plants you can grow with this system. The answer is ALL plants adapt to the aquaponics. Some do perform better than others, it is true – but if you pay attention and coax them a little you can have wonderful crops with any veggies and fruit bearing plants as well. There are instances where people have grown very successfully dwarf fruit trees.

For most plants – and for beginners in aquaponics systems – the best is to use the media filled beds. In this medium you can easily grow small and large plants alike.

Contrary to common belief, aquaponics is not only good for leafy green vegetables. The myth is promoted by the fact that it is much easier to grow the leafy vegetables than any other types of vegetables. If given proper care all plants do good in this system – including root plants (potatoes, carrots, onions, etc).

CAN YOU REALLY GROW ROOT CROPS?

As said earlier, root crops can very easily be grown with aquaponics system. People have successfully grown carrots, potatoes, ginger, beets  and many other such crops without any hitch.

VEGETABLES

The best is to follow the normal farming charts. Plant those plants in the spring that are usually planted in the spring. In the summer, those that are normally planted in summer and so on.

In spring (North – March-April and South October-November) you might try to plant the following plants among others (in alphabetical order) – artichoke, beans, cantaloupe, carrots, collards, cucumber, eggplant (aubergines), garlic, herbs, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, melons, mustard green, okra, onions, parsley, parnships, peanuts, potatoes, pumpkins, radish, spinach, squash, strawberries, Swiss chard, turnips, tomatoes, watermelon, and zucchini.

In summer (North June-August and South December-February) you might try to plant the following among others (in alphabetical order): beans, chard, corn, garlic, herbs, lettuce, mustard greens, onions, okra, bell peppers, spinach, strawberries, radish, squash, and tomatoes.

In autumn/ fall (North September-November and South March-May)  you might try to plant the following among others (in alphabetical order): beetroot, Bok Choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, endive, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, onions, parsley peas, radish, spinach, sugar peas, Swiss chard, turnips.

In winter (North December-February, South June-August) you might try to plant the following among others (in alphabetical order): asparagus, beetroot, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, endive, horse radish, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, onions, parsley, parsnip, peas, radish, rhubarb, shallots, spinach, Swiss chard, turnips.

An indicative list of what you can grow is given below in alphabetical order. This is definitely not an all inclusive list – but it will give you an idea of how versatile this system of farming is:

Asian Leafy Greens

Basil

Beet

Bok Choy

Broccoli

Butter beans

Cabbage

Capsicum

Cauliflower

Celery

Chard

Chilies

Chives

Coriander

Corn

Cucumber

Dwarf beans

Eggplant

Flowers

Fruit trees

Garlic

Grapes

Herbs

Kale

Kohl

Lemongrass

Lettuce

Onion

Oregano

Parsley

Peas

Rockmelon

Sage

Snow peas

Spinach

Strawberries

Tomato

Watercress

Yarrow

FLOWERS

Experiment with various types of flowers. Growers have successfully maintained marigolds, camomile, echinacea, lobelia and petunias in aquaponic systems.

THE SECRET INGREDIENT FOR A SUCCESSFUL AQUAPONIC SYSTEM

There are a lot of sort cuts and tricks you will learn over time while you are growing your aquaponics farm. As a newbie, you will need to research in depth regarding each and every aspect of aquaponics. There is no such thing like too much knowledge or too much information on any aspect of this type of farming.

Thankfully there are plenty of websites on the Net that throw light on every aspect of aquaponics, plants and fish. Ask as many questions as you can; seek alternatives, be innovative, be pushy and you will be surprised with what you will achieve. You will also find a lot of special tricks that will help you produce better crops with least effort.

THE BEST FRIEND OF AQUAPONICS – THE REDWORM

One of the secret ingredients of aquaponics farms is the REDWORM (Eisenia foetida) also known as red wigglers,  manure worms, red worms, or redworms. Add these to your aquaponics farm – but not before they are very carefully washed. You do not want to contaminate your system with bad bacteria or harmful viruses or chemicals they might carry from the soil where they lived earlier.

To ensure that they are completely clean just washing would not do. Allow them to rest for 2-3 days in a clean environment fed exclusively on corn meal to ensure that everything in their stomachs is also expelled and hence, they are not carrying anything harmful into your soilless farm. It is VERY IMPORTANT that your worms are totally clean when they are introduced into the system.

These redworms are excellent factors to sustain good bacteria and balance your eco system. Those who have introduced redworms into their system enjoy far better crops than those who have not. This is a great (and secret) ingredient that you need to know about and use to ensure the greatest possible results from your efforts with the aquaponics system.

AQUAPONICS AS A MICRO COMMERCIAL VENTURE

Most people who take up aquaponics they do it out of curiosity – to find out whether it is really possible to grow any plant without soil. Miraculously as it sounds, it is nothing to it, really. In fact, as explained earlier this is a much easier method of gardening than the traditional (in the soil) gardening.

However, once you get to do it and realize what a wonderful thing it is, you immediately think about promoting it into a commercial venture. You can get fresh vegetables for your family round the year – see that list of crops you can grow every season given earlier – and also generate enough surplus to sell and get a wonderful profit. Besides, you can also sell the fish and add to your bank account.

For that purpose you might need some capital – though you can kick start an aquaponic farm with as little $5,000 that will give you profits in the very first year of launching.

GRANTS FOR AQUAPONIC FARMS

It is a good thing if you know about places that offer grants for this type of venture. Here are a few organizations/ institutions where you can apply for grants. You can of course, also approach the US Small Business Administration (SBA) for micro, small  and medium loans to start up a very successful and productive business. Check out with the State Government to find out what promotional schemes they have for aquaponics – you will be surprised to find that most states encourage this type of farming and try to promote it by helping those who want to establish it as commercial venture.

For those who would like to apply for grants, research on the Net and you will find plenty of opportunities. Apply to all the institutions where you are eligible; there are many applicants and hence, by placing as many applications you will raise your chances to get lucky. Here are a few  places you could start with:

NATURAL RESOURCES CONSERVATION SERVICE

The Natural Resources Conservation Service, is an agency of the United States Department of Agriculture, which offers Conservation Innovation Grants every year to companies and enterprises committed to improving agricultural practices. Some of the awardees are:

- West Virginia University - $134,974 in 2011 to build an aquaponic production model.

- Hawaiian company Island Paradise Aquaponics - $100,000 in 2010.

This program cover both NGOs (non-governmental organizations) and individuals. You may contact the program by calling (202) 720-8071.

SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE RESEARCH AND EDUCATION

The Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education (SARE) offers a variety of grant programs to companies and individuals committed to developing sustainable forms of agriculture. Among those eligible are producers, nonprofit organizations, researchers and students. SARE grants are awarded region-wise, i.e. Northeast, North Central, Southern and Western.

If interested, download the application from the SARE website (www.sare.org) – where you will also find tips for writing a good grant proposal.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FOOD AND AGRICULTURE

The National Institute of Food and Agriculture (NIFA) is a division of the United States Department of Agriculture, which offers grants to aquaponic enterprises and those who are carrying out research on technology and engineering, animals, plants and agricultural systems.

Among the available sources of funding under NIFA are the BFRD (Beginning Farmer and Rancher Development) Program, the AFRISB (Agriculture and Food Research Initiative for Sustainable Bio-energy) and the CFPC (Community Food Projects Competitive) grants program. Download application forms the NIFA website (www.nifa.usda.gov).

PRIVATE ORGANIZATIONS

Many  private organizations offer grants for aquaponic farming. Check out the following:

- The Jessie Smith Noyes Foundation (www.noyes.org), for example, lists the promotion of a "Sustainable agricultural and food system" as one of its major funding priorities.

- The Syngenta Foundation for Sustainable Agriculture (www.syngentafoundation.org) offers grants to small-scale farming operations that promote greater sustainability.

- Company Patagonia (www.patagonia.com) offers grants to sustainable farming ventures; in 2010, it offered over $100,000 to farms and enterprises promoting alternatives to large-scale farming.

AQUACULTURE PERMITS

If you are planning to start an aquaponic farm you may need a permit or license before doing so. Be careful that you do not inadvertently do anything against the locals laws. Most of the states have established these laws to ensure that the ecosystem is not harmed. Check with the Wildlife State Authorities or a law firm about the requirements of permits for individual and/ or commercial aquaculture farming.

Happy Aquaponics Farming!! Cheers!

REFERENCES & RESOURCES

1.        Barrel-ponics by Travic W Hughey - http://www.aces.edu/dept/fisheries/education/documents/barrel-ponics.pdf - here you will find a number of models of aquaponics farm described step by step that you could use.

2.       What is Aquaponics - http://vimeo.com/6281618 - a brief video that will show a few basics about aquaponics.

3.       Micro grants for setting up aquaponics - http://aquaponicsassociation.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/MICROGRANTFINAL.pdf - an application for micro grants up to $1,000 for setting up aquaponic system.

4.       MyOwnAquaponics - http://myownaquaponics.com/aquaponic-systems/: an excellent source to start understanding what is available in the market and what is the going price for the customized home and commercial systems.

5.       Home Aquaponics System - http://homeaquaponicssystem.com/basics/ - this is a site that offer plenty of advise and tips.

6.       Portable Farms - http://portablefarms.com/price-list/ - another resource which will tell you the market prices of aquaponics systems.

7.       IBC Of Aquaponics - http://ibcofaquaponics.com/ - an excellent source for DIY systems that are of the lowest possible cost.

Ensure you research habits (feeding, breeding, and habitat) of any fish you stock. Check out the following for various aspects of aquaculture:

http://www.overtonfisheries.com

http://www.morningstarfishermen.org/education.html

http://www.miami-aquaculture.com/lvstk.htm

http://www.valmeyerk12.org/clubs/valmeyer_ffa%20TILAPIA.htm

Resource for tilapia fingerlings: Travis W. Hughey aquaponic70@yahoo.com  (minimum order of 25)

Resource for tilapia fingerlings: http://www.miami-aquaculture.com/tilapia.htm  (they may have a minimum order of 150, get a small group together to split an order)

Resource for worms: http://www.ourvitalearth.com/

CONNECT WITH TOM

Thank you so much for taking the time to read this book. I’m excited for you to start your path to a healthier body.

If you have any questions of any kind, feel free to contact me directly at Tom@JuiceTom.com

You can follow me on Twitter: @JuiceTom

And connect with me on Facebook: http://on.fb.me/12SDmu2

You can check out my nutrition and health blog for the latest updates and healthy recipes here: TomCorsonKnowles.com/blog

I’m wishing you the best of health, happiness and success!

Here’s to you!

Tom Corson-Knowles

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

TOM CORSON-KNOWLES is the #1 Amazon best-selling author of Dr. Corson’s Top 5 Nutrition Tips and The Vertical Gardening Guidebook, among others. He lives in Kapaa, Hawaii. Tom loves educating and inspiring others to live happy, healthy lives through great nutrition.

Learn more at TomCorsonKnowles.com/blog

OTHER BOOKS BY TOM CORSON-KNOWLES

Dr. Corson's Top 5 Nutrition Tips

The Vertical Gardening Guidebook: How To Create Beautiful Vertical Gardens, Container Gardens and Aeroponic Vertical Tower Gardens at Home

How To Make Money With Twitter

The Kindle Publishing Bible: How To Sell More Kindle ebooks On Amazon

The Blog Business Book: How To Start A Blog And Turn It Into A Six Figure Online Business

The Kindle Formatting Bible: How To Format Your Ebook For Kindle Using Microsoft Word

101 Ways To Start A Business For Less Than $1,000

Facebook For Business Owners: Facebook Marketing For Fan Page Owners and Small Businesses

Rich by 22: How To Achieve Business Success at an Early Age

How To Reduce Your Debt Overnight: A Simple System To Eliminate Credit Card And Consumer Debt

The Network Marketing Manual: Work From Home And Get Rich In Direct Sales

ONE LAST THING...

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If you’d like to leave a review then all you need to do is click the review link on this book’s page on Amazon here: http://amzn.to/ZIrSue

Thanks again for your support!

EXCERPT FROM THE VERTICAL GARDENING GUIDEBOOK

COMPOSTING FOR YOUR VERTICAL GARDEN

When I was a kid growing up, my parents had a big “compost pile” in our back yard. It was always my chore every week to take out the “compost bucket” underneath our sink.

We always had a very strict policy – if we were going to throw something away and it was food scraps, we had to throw them in the compost bucket. If it was plastic or paper trash, we had to throw it in the trash can. I just thought it was normal to always be composting!

I remember playing out in our big compost pile as a kid. I would always have fun using a pitchfork to toss the fresh food scraps in with the rich, dark compost. Of course, there were times when the smell was so bad taking out the compost bucket… but I do have very fond memories of composting as a young kid!

Above is a picture of my compost pile at my parents’ home where I grew up. That’s good compost!

Compost isn’t just for fun though – it’s one of the best forms of fertilizers that you can use for your vertical garden. If you are looking for a sure way to give your vertical garden plenty of nutrients, and cheaply, composting is definitely the way to go.

The great thing about composting is that you can create it on your own. You can start off with a store-bought package of compost, but you won’t have to keep buying it. Compost is simple to make and affordable – in fact, it can be totally free!

COMPOSTING THE CHEAP WAY

First, we’ll talk about the frugal way to create compost on your own. Before we get into that, let’s talk about what compost is...

Compost is a mixture of organic matter that has begun to decompose, transitioning into awesome fertilizer for your soil. Some people even grow their fruits, vegetables and herbs directly in compost without any soil. Compost can be made up of dirt, scraps of veggies, grass, flowers, leaves, fruits, mushrooms and other scraps that grow from the ground.

You can place this in a wooden box or container with earth worms, scraps of cut grass, leftover veggies and fruits, then cover it up and let it sit to begin decomposing. If there’s a dry spell or drought, you should water the compost pile a little to keep it damp and so that the earthworms don’t dry out. The water will also help the bacteria decompose the organic matter – they can’t do it if there’s no moisture!

Place your compost box in a warm place in your home or outside (preferably outside because of the smell, but there are indoor composting units you can buy that seal tightly and keep the smell at a minimum). You should stir or mix your compost every now and then to allow oxygen to penetrate through the bottom layers.

Once your compost is ready, you can begin using it in your garden. There are soil tests that you can use to see how much nutrients are in your compost. You should try using nutrient-rich organic matter for your compost such as mushrooms, peat moss and scraps of veggies. Of course, to keep things affordable, you can stick with composting the scraps of yard and food scraps that you commonly produce.

COMPOST PILES (ALSO CALLED COMPOST HEAPS)

Another cheap way to create compost on your own is to create heaps of scraps. This is probably the most cost effective because it doesn’t require you to buy or build any structures. You simply throw all your old food scraps into a contained pile somewhere in your yard.

A small compost pile could be about five feet wide and three feet tall. The length and size of your compost pile will vary based on how much food scraps and organic material you throw in and how quickly you use it in your garden.

Heaps should be used if you have sufficient space in your yard. Simply add scraps to the pile that you accumulate daily, or keep them in a container and dump them into a heap once you have generated enough. By creating a heap in the fall, your compost will continue to decompose throughout the winter months.

If space allows, you should try to create two heaps of compost. Once the first heap is large enough, then allow it to decompose, while you work on building the second heap. It’s not required for you to turn the compost in your heaps, it is entirely up to you. But keep in mind that the decomposition process will take longer if you don’t.

Avoid throwing food scraps onto a heap of compost that has not been turned because it will attract insects (mostly flies). Wood can also be added, but make sure that they are chopped up, so that the pile doesn’t become brush. Wood takes longer to decompose, sometimes up to a couple of years – but it will make a richer compost when you combine as many kinds of compostable organic material as you can find.

SHEET COMPOSTING

If building heaps of compost isn’t something you want to do, you can use this method instead. All you have to do is spread a thin layer of organic materials on an area of your garden – this can be materials like leaves, food and garden scraps and cut grass, all of which should be shredded or chopped before being added. Once this is done, you will then till the layer of materials using a spade, hoe or other tool.

One issue with sheet composting is that it tends to release carbon residues, which will pull nitrogen from the soil to help with decomposition. Also, if you have items in your compost that are high in nitrogen and could end up releasing nitrogen too fast; this could slow down the decomposition process.

The best time to do sheet composting is in autumn. The compost should be spread out in a two inch by four inch layer. The best tool to use for tilling is a rotary tiller, if you’re planting a vegetable garden.  A garden fork or hoe would be best if you’re planting perennial or bulb flowers.

Sheet composting in action.

TRENCH COMPOSTING

Trench composting is known to be one of the easiest ways to create compost from food scraps. All you need to do is dig a hole in your yard that is about a foot deep, then simply chop up and mix the food scraps with the soil you dug up. Afterward, you will place about eight inches of additional soil on top. If the temperature is warm enough, the compost will take between one month and a year to decompose.

There are some people who randomly make trenches of compost, while others create an organized system. One system that is commonly used is to bury food and garden scraps inside of holes that were dug near the drip line of bushes and trees.

Trench composting in action.

In England, they use a trench composting system that involves a three-season rotation, known as vertical composting. The garden is divided up into rows that are three inches wide. Here is how the system works:

Year One – A hole is dug that is a foot wide and then filled with compostable materials. Once the compost is an inch high, the hole is covered with soil. A one inch section is left open as a path right next to it. Next in line is another one inch strip that is used to plant your garden items. In all there are three rows.

Year Two – Unlike with year one, the third section is the one used for the trench. The same steps are used to create the compost. Your garden is planted in the second row and the first row is now the walking space.

Year Three – The section that was used for the trench in year one and the walking path in year two now becomes the planting area, which should be rich because the compost should be fully decomposed. The second space is now the trench and the third space is now for walking.

MORE ADVANCED COMPOSTING SUPPLIES

There are other different methods of composting that you can use that require certain equipment. Some equipment is cheap, while others are more on the expensive end. First on the list are holding units, which are bins that are used to throw your kitchen scraps into.

Little maintenance is needed with most models and they’re small enough to be used on of apartment and condo balconies. You should use non-wood materials for your compost in holding units. Just throw in the scraps as you get them, instead of trashing them.

Holding bins are easy to use, but require time to generate ready compost. They don’t require you to turn them at all, which is why the process is a lot slower – sometimes taking as long as six months to two years. The process will work much faster if you add earth worms to your compost bins!

Portable units can be purchased that can be turned and aerated. They can be moved about easily. These usually come in the form of plastic, wire fencing / hardware cloth, wood with wire frames or snow fencing.

You can try increasing the aeration of the compost in the holding units by poking holes into the soil and placing ventilating stacks in the center. It will look like pipes sticking out of the middle of the dirt which will allow oxygen into the soil, further decomposing the organic matter.

You will have to place the pipes down before pouring in the compost. The pipes can be made out of wire mesh or even grouped together sticks that are tied together loosely. If you decide to use PVC pipes, make sure that they are about an inch in diameter or bigger. Drill holes throughout the sides of the pipes to give more aeration to your pile.

Some people place down a plastic aeration mat or wooden pallet before dumping in the compost. Since you will be continually placing in new organics into your compost, the finished compost will usually be found near the bottom of the pile.

When needed, you can remove the compost at the bottom of the heap for your garden. Some holding bins have removable doors at the front or bottom, so that this can be easily done. If you want, you can remove the completed compost and place it in a separate bag.

Keep in mind that holding units that are heavier or permanent and have no removable doors will require more effort to create the compost. You will have to remove the finished compost to another container. It’s a good idea to have about three of these bins – one could be for finished compost, another for maturing compost and the third for fresh compost.

You have the choice of buying a holding bin that is made of plastic or wood, or building one yourself using hardware cloth, pallets, metal barrels, limber and tires. These permanent structures can also be made with bricks, rocks and concrete blocks.

If you decide to build one yourself using wood, avoid using those that are penta, creosote or copper arsenate (CCA). Don’t use these types of wood around your edible gardens either! These heavy metals can leak into your soil and go straight through your skin, giving you heavy metal toxicity or poisoning! I highly recommend you use wood that is naturally resistant to decay, such as cedar or pine that hasn’t been treated.

TURNING UNITS

Unlike typical compost bins, the turning units are made specifically for aeration. You are able to spin this to keep oxygen flowing through your compost. If you’re looking to create compost faster then turning units are the kind you’ll love. All of the aeration forms bacteria that decompose the compost quicker.

You will find two different types of turning units available – a series of bins or a rotating barrel. By turning the bins every five to ten days and within two months or less, your compost will be ready – if your compost has a good mixture of carbon, nitrogen and moisture.

By heating up the compost between 90 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit, it will kill diseases, fly larvae and weed seeds. This is also a good environment for the compost to decompose. Turning units will cost a bit more than holding units. If you decide to build one on your own, it will take a little more effort upfront.

A small compost turning unit.

Those who buy the turning bins that have multiple bins and rolling balls sometimes find it hard to operate, especially if they have problems with their back or physical limitations. There are some turning bins that are created to have easier use and maintenance. Barrel turning units are smaller in size than the other types of bins, so if you don’t require too much compost, then this could be the option for you.

With the turning units, make sure to accumulate your food waste in a container so that when you place it into the bin it is filled to the prescribed level. The container you save it in should be pest-proof.

If you’ll be keeping the compost container indoors, there’s a neat trick you can use to reduce the smell – just throw a light layer of saw dust on top of the scraps.

WHAT COMPOST SHOULD LOOK LIKE

You want your compost to be rich, dark and earthy like in the picture below from my compost pile at home. It shouldn’t have any bad smell from food scraps – the bacteria should have broken all that down by the time you use it for your garden.

[End of Excerpt] If you enjoyed reading this excerpt from The Vertical Gardening Guidebook, you can grab your copy here: http://amzn.to/XY2Mr6

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Will Cook is the bestselling author of Urban Gardening and Indoor Gardening Will is an avid gardener and loves growing his own fresh food on his balcony. Will believes the world would be a better place if everyone cared for a few plants and grew their own food (even if it’s just a little bit).

Connect with Will on Facebook at http://on.fb.me/HmllNU

RECOMMENDED BOOKS ON GARDENING AND SUSTAINABILITY

Urban Gardening: How To Grow Food In Any City Apartment Or Yard No Matter How Small

This is a fantastic book for anyone in the city who wants to grow a fabulous urban garden.

The Vertical Gardening Guidebook: How To Create Beautiful Vertical Gardens, Container Gardens and Aeroponic Vertical Tower Gardens at Home

This is a great book for anyone interested in learning how to grow vertical gardens which allow you to grow more food in less space.

Indoor Gardening: How To Grow Gorgeous Gardens Indoors With Ease

This book is perfect for anyone who wants to grow an indoor garden for food, fun, or just to create a gorgeous ambiance in your home. Did you know that some plants can remove as much as 87% of the toxins in your home in just 24 hours?

Container Gardening: How To Grow Food, Flowers and Fun At Home

This book is great if you want to create gorgeous, fun, container gardens at home including detailed instructions for terrariums, growing succulents, bonsais, and other fun and unique plants.

Chicken Raising 101: How To Raise Chickens In Your Backyard for Eggs, Fun and Profit

This is a wonderful guide to raising your own chickens at home. If you’ve always wanted your own chickens but don’t know how to do it right, this book is for you!

Greenhouse Gardening 101: How To Build Your Own Greenhouse for Growing Vegetables, Fruits, Herbs and Food

Greenhouse Gardening 101 is a great guide for anyone who wants to learn how to build their own greenhouse in the backyard.

Natural Mosquito Control: How To Get Rid Of Mosquitos Fast Without Toxic Chemicals or Insecticides

Natural Mosquito Control is the complete guide to killing and repelling mosquitoes without any pesticides or toxic chemicals!

ONE LAST THING…

If you enjoyed this book or found it useful I’d be very grateful if you’d post a short review on Amazon. Your support really does make a difference and I read all the reviews personally so I can get your feedback and make this book even better.

If you’d like to leave a review then all you need to do is click the review link on this book’s page on Amazon here: http://amzn.to/VCxrEa

Thanks again for your support!

[1] Urban Homestead: Since 1985… Pioneering a Journey Towards Self-sufficiency… One Step at a Time - http://urbanhomestead.org/about

Table of Contents

Table of Contents

Why You Should Read This Book

What Is Aquaponics - The Basics

Troubleshooting And Maintenance Tips

How Much Does It Cost?

What Fish Are Best For Aquaponics

What Do You Grow In Your Aquaponics Farm?

Aquaponics as a Micro Commercial Venture

Grants for aquaponic farms

Aquaculture Permits

References & Resources

Connect With Tom

About The Author

Other Books By Tom Corson-Knowles

Excerpt From The Vertical Gardening Guidebook

About The Author

Recommended Books on Gardening and Sustainability