C. Bow (Busòg) Construction Steps

 

(1) Neatly cut the Bamboo Base Pole just below the lowest base chamber. (The base chamber is the sectional part "bukò" nearest the root of the bamboo stalk.) Smoothen the outside skin as best as you can with your machete. Do not remove the bamboo skin, as this is an integral part of the bow arm strength. Use the sand paper to smoothen the outside skin.

Here's a photo of a smoothened Bamboo Base Pole about 4 feet (1.2 meters) long.

(2) Using a marker pen or pencil, draw a line ALL AROUND the lowest base chamber  (see the arrow  in the photo) "bukó" of the pole. This is the area reserved for the bow handle.

Here's how to mark the base of your Bamboo Pole.

(3) Split the pole, lengthwise into 4 equal lengths and you will now have 4 fat strips.

(4) Split each fat strip into 2 thinner strips making a matched bow arm pair.

(5) Reduce the total thickness of the bow arms to about 5/8” (15mm) from END to END with your machete.

 

Note: You should ONLY shave the INNER PART of the Bamboo, DO NOT remove the OUTER SKIN.

 

(6) Measure the length of each pair of bow arms from the base section to the upper section that lies between 36'' to 45" (90cm to 115cm) from the bottom and cut the Bow Arms just above the upper section.

 

Note: ALL Bow Arms must start and end at a section "bukò" (joint) and must not be shorter than 3' (90cm) or longer than 4' (122cm) from end to end.

 

(7) On the outer skin of each bow arm, draw with a marker pen, two PARALLEL LINES about 1” to 1 1/4" (28-32mm) apart, from end to end on every Bow Arm as shown in the photo below.

Here is a photo of thin strips with drawn lines.

(8) Using a Machete (Bolo) slice the Bow Arms until you achieve the desired width as you have drawn.

 

(9) Draw a tapered shape on the bow arm from around midpoint to about ½” (12mm) wide at the Bow Tip. Taper the bow arms to a pointy shape and double check that both Matching Bow Arms are somewhat identical in shape to each other as in this photo of a pair of fully tapered bow arms.

(10) Smoothen the tapered bow arms with a sharp machete always starting from the handle towards the tip using long even strokes.

 

(11) Mark how thin to make the Bow Arms from around mid point to about 3/8” (1cm) at the tip. Use the machete and gradually thin the bow arm to your drawn line.

This next photo shows the side view of a Bow Arm that is marked to be shaved thinner.

(12) Match the two Bow Arm base ends (handle part) back to back for the best fit and choosing which arm will be the forward arm (away from the archer) and therefore the other will be the rear arm (nearer the archer). Mark the bow arms properly so you don't confuse them.

Here's a good example of a good pair of forward and rear bow arms.

This next pair, on the other hand, is a poor choice.

Taking the forward bow arm, shave the INNER SIDE of the handle portion to about ½” (13mm) to mate closely to the outside skin of the rear bow arm handle.

The 2-piece bow handle must feel fairly solid in your hand when you grasp the mated handles together.

Here's a photo of 2 properly shaved handle portions mating with each other.

(13) Shave the inner side of the handle portion of the rear bow arm to make the combined thickness of the double bow arm handle around 1" (26mm).

 

(14) Straighten the matched Bow Arms as straight and equal as possible by gently heating the bends on the Bow Arm over a fire and bending it carefully.

 

(15) Carve the basic shape of the Bow String tip. Carve smoothening groves on the tip and make sure there are no sharp corners or edges that will fray the bowstring during use.

Here are a couple of photos of a finished bowstring tip. The one on the left is the front part and the one on the right is the rear part that faces the archer.

(16) Mark the spot where you will drill a 6mm sized hole on each Bow Arm. The holes should be located not more than 1" (25mm) from the end of a Bow Arm of each handle portion. You can use a 6mm Drill bit or the Awl of the Swiss knife to make the holes for the bolts.

This next photo shows where to drill the holes that are not more than 1” (25mm) from the handle end of each bow arm.

(17) After you have made the initial hole on each Bow Arm, lash the two Bow Arms together as if you are assembling them together and finish drilling through the two holes. Use sandpaper and thoroughly smoothen the two bow arms, rounding the corners along the whole length and smoothening the bow tips very well.

 

(18) Assemble your Bow, insert the bolts and gently tighten the nuts until they are firmly in place. Do not over tighten, as you may crack the bamboo.

Here's a photo of a finished bow arm, handle portion.

Below is an assembled Bow with Nut and Bolt.

If you do not have bolts, you can make Dowels/Pegs from bamboo and use these in the holes to securely keep the bow arms from twisting when in use.

Below is an assembled bow with removable Bamboo Dowels.

 

(19) Make a simple Inner Tube Arrow Rest to make your Bow more accurate and less painful on the bow hand. Sandwich the arrow rest between the two bow arms with the arrow rest hole at the midpoint of the assembled ambidextrous bow.

Shown here is an Inner Tube Arrow Rest that is about 5” (13cm) long by 1” (2.5cm) wide. Trim any excess of the arrow rest, once it is installed.

(20) Tightly lash the handle with the Inner Tube.

Shown below are two fully lashed Bow Arms with arrow rests made from Inner Tube Rubber.

(21) Congratulations! Enjoy your bow, made from recycled & renewable materials