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Kitchen Table Kibitzing August 6, 2023 [1]

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Date: 2023-08-06  

Food for gatherings

Now that entertaining guests and having celebratory parties is possible, here is a recipe I often feature. It is my signature dish, Crab & Corn Chowder with Bacon and Wild Mushrooms. This recipe was featured on the cover of Bon Appetit many years ago and was recently reprinted in our local paper. It was created by our local top chef John Ash. I have made this many times and it’s always a hit. Fresh corn is available now; crab probably canned. (In the winter the crab is fresh, but not the corn)

6 medium ears of fresh sweet corn

2 cups or so chicken stock

4 cups heavy cream

2 tablespoons olive oil

6 ounces slab bacon cut into 1/4-inch dice

11/2 cups finely diced onion

11/2 cups finely diced leeks, including some of the tender green part

3/4 cup diced celery

3 cups peeled and diced waxy potatoes

2 tablespoons butter

3 cups (6 ounces) cleaned wild mushrooms such as chanterelle or oyster, thickly sliced

— Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (1/2 teaspoon dried)

3 tablespoons dry or medium dry sherry, or to taste

1 pound crab meat, picked over to remove any shell

Cut corn from the cob and set aside (you should have 5 cups or so). Add the cobs to a deep sauce pan along with the stock and cream and bring to a simmer and simmer for 5 minutes. Turn off heat and set aside.

Add the oil to a heavy soup pot and over moderately high heat, sauté the bacon until browned and crisp. Remove bacon and set aside to drain on paper towels. Discard all but 3 tablespoons of fat from the pot and stir in the onion, leeks, celery and sauté until vegetables are crisp-tender. Add potatoes and stir.

Remove and discard the cobs from the cream mixture and strain into pot with the vegetables. Bring to a simmer and cook until potatoes are barely tender, about 10 minutes. Add the corn and simmer for a couple of minutes more.

In the meantime, melt butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Sauté the mushrooms until tender and season with salt, pepper and thyme leaves. Add mushrooms to soup along with sherry. Correct seasoning to your taste. Thin if desired with additional stock or cream.

Gently warm the crab in the mushroom skillet and divide among warm soup plates along with the reserved bacon and parsley. Ladle the soup over and serve immediately.

Or if this all seems too difficult, and it’s too hot to cook, a bowl of ice cream is always good.

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