(C) Daily Kos This story was originally published by Daily Kos and is unaltered. . . . . . . . . . . Saturday Morning Garden Blogging - Vol.19.41 - Bulgaria, Romania and Transylvania too! [1] ['This Content Is Not Subject To Review Daily Kos Staff Prior To Publication.'] Date: 2023-10-14 Good morning and welcome to Saturday Morning Garden Blogging where we’re known to wander off the garden paths by also including our animals, homes, travels and many other interesting topics. I traveled with a friend, Suzanne, for almost a month this summer from Austria to Romania and the countries in between including Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia and Bulgaria. I previously wrote a diary titled “From Austria to Romania” back on August 12th (link in comments below) where I covered traveling from Austria to Serbia but needed this Part 2 to cover Bulgaria and Romania. We last left off in Part 1 sailing the Danube River with Romania on one side and Serbia on the other. So let’s get started! Our next stop was in the City of Vidin, Bulgaria where Suzanne and I did a walking tour, at least I did part of it. Lots of beautiful historic buildings and plantings in the downtown area of one of the oldest cities in the country. Bulgaria is a good size country but with a population of only 6.8 million. Vidin’s “Triangle of Tolerance” includes St. Nicholas Orthodox Church, Neo-Gothic Vidin Synagogue and the Osman Pazantoglu Mosque, all multiple faiths living peacefully side by side. When’s the last time that you saw a pay phone? I started feeling run down (from closing the bar the previous night? Suzanne kept ordering us dirty martinis!). Anyway, I decided to sit on a park bench while the group continued on to the highlight — the Baba Vida Fortress, a 10th century medieval fortress, which was the town’s main defensive structure during the Middle Ages. Still I had a glorious walk with the group when they returned and we continued on. We then left for Nikopol where we spent the night. The next morning we took a bus to Pleven, considered one of the most beautiful cities in Bulgaria. There are over 450 places of architectural and cultural significance. Along the drive there were sunflowers in almost every direction unless it was wheat being harvested with equipment as large as my house. Photos taken through the window of the speeding van. Are there speed limits? Maybe the driver took his morning medicine (plum brandy)? Built between 1903-1907 is the St. George the Conqueror Chapel Mausoleum in Pleven which I thought was very modern, actually futuristic for the time period it was built. Here are Romas in a horse and wagon asking a local for directions. We were informed in both Bulgaria and Romania to not call them Gypsies but Romas. Some Romas hate the name as they say they are not tomatoes yet others embrace the term. The van driver didn’t halt for the stop sign but slowed enough that I managed to quickly get these two shots. I believe the driver took more of his medicine. I kept wondering if he should be operating heavy equipment. The Church of Seven Nikolai (St. Nicholas) 1834 had some very interesting worshippers inside. The Pleven Fountains were extremely nice. Constructed on the Vazrazhdane Central Square, the water cascades consisted of more than 10 waterfalls, fountains, 3 water mirrors and various water streams and splashes. It seemed as if every street corner around the park had florist shops. The Pleven highlight for me was the Pleven Epopee 1877 Panorama. It’s a monument created by both Russian and Bulgarian artists to commemorate the Russian and Romanian soldiers who fought in the 1877 Siege of Pleven during the Russo-Turkish War. This was unlike anything I have ever seen as you were standing in the middle of the 360 degree panorama which to me was a masterpiece. No way can you really capture the feel in photographs. The top three photographs are just a fraction of being in the middle of it. Everything in the foreground is real including trenches dug in the soil then with paintings as background. The bottom three are part of the gigantic paintings on the staircase. Hurry now as we have to leave Pleven. After a quick stop in Svishtov, we’ll overnight in Ruse. The people in Ruse, Bulgaria are Happy! Get some sleep now as we will be arriving in the morning to Constanta, Romania. Okay, just one nightcap but no dirty martinis! The ship went through quite a few water locks which were interesting. Lots of ships due to the proximity of the Black Sea. Customs was long and a bit difficult. Witnessed many people in cars being searched. I pleaded for a pat-down or strip-search to no avail. A walking tour of Constanta included The Capitoline Wolf Statue and the interesting Old Town Hall. This tombstone is incredibly interesting. The woman, Cecilia Artemisia, tombstone from 2nd-3rd century A.D. is on the right. On the left is her funerary epigram with a message to us: Perinthos, my husband, raised altar and stele. And if you want to know, passer-by, who and whose I am (listen): when I was 13 a young man loved me, worthy of us, then I married him and bore three children: a son first and then two daughters, the very image of my face; finally I bore a fourth time, though I should not have any more. Because the child died first and short time after, me too. I left the light of the sun when I was thirty. I, Cecilia Artemisia lie here. Home and husband for me is Perinthos. My son’s name is Priscus and my daughter’s Heieronis; as regards Theodora, she was child in the house when I died. My husband, Perinthos, lives and mourns me with faint voice. As well, my good father weeps because I retreated here. I also have here my mother Flavia Theodora. Here lies my husband’s father, Caecilius Priscus. I arrived in this family, but behold, I died (Salutation!). A salutation to you to whoever you should be, you who (?) pass by our graves. Funerary epigram. Tomis, 2nd -3rd century. A.D. The 155-foot-high minaret of the Grand Mosque of Constanta where we were actually allowed to quickly step inside. The second row, second pic was just one of many houses in a neighborhood close to the sea. The sign below states: The Archeological researches carried out in this area were conducted between 1971 and 1974, being made by specialists of the Museum of National History and Archeology Constanta. During the archeological research, no less than 12 archeological levels were found, dated between the 6th century BC and 7th century AD. The excavations have proven the beginnings of Tomis (VI Century BC), these being represented by several hovels. The oldest ruins are in the deep. Today, the vestiges of a quarter from the 4th to 6th centuries BC are visible, including dwellings, sewage systems and the intersection of two roads. Constanta located on the Black Sea is known as the “Pearl of the Romanian Riviera”. I made it to the Black Sea for the second time! First time was in 2013 when P and I took a day river cruise on the Bosporus River from Istanbul, Turkey to the Black Sea for a luncheon. We enjoyed Turkey so much that we returned the next year for a month and became engaged inside the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. Suzanne and I signed up for a wine tasting and vineyard tour in the Dobrogea region. The Vineyard we visited was approximately 6,500 acres. (I don’t want to mention their name) I swear this entire side trip was like a 1970s foreign language “B” movie shown at 2 a.m. because there was nothing left to fill that time slot. That night we sadly said goodbye to the boat’s waitstaff but happily to the MAGA crowd mentioned in Pt 1. After arriving in Bucharest, we took a walk in the old town section. Saw many interesting gardens but this one I found especially intriguing. I appreciate the fact that they left the dead vines that look like an art installation. And then where were their other vines growing that form a canopy over their walkway — the ground or from the balcony? This medieval chapel and garden were a treat located right in the center of a very commercial area. I failed to get its name. The two black dressed nuns were cute as when we first walked in they were on their iPhones. They were so gracious and polite! The Palace of the Parliament is the second largest building in the world behind the Pentagon. It has over 3,000 rooms (70% empty). Shown is the front but it continues back for an incredible distance and our hotel was actually behind it. One night Suzanne, a New Zealand lady and I could not get a taxi in the old town and had to walk back to our hotel. You have no idea how difficult it was to walk around this building and its fencing that went on and on. We had to take a few breaks as none of us had on proper walking shoes. The JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel was the nicest hotel that I have ever stayed in. The top right was the view from our window where you can see the Parliament Building in the distance and the new People's Salvation Cathedral under construction in the foreground. The hotel had very diverse guests making me feel like I was in an Agatha Christie novel. A lot of the women’s faces were covered. The casino was extremely interesting as I expected Bond, James Bond, to show up. The Romanian National Museum of Art is located in the former Royal Palace of Bucharest and has large collections of medieval and modern works by Romanian artists. I found the building just as interesting if not more so than the art work. We also visited the Romanian Athenaeum where we caught part of an opera practice. That water bottle was as big as her head. The Memorial of Rebirth is referred by locals as “a potato on a skewer” and was built as memorial to the Romanian Revolution of 1989 with the overthrow of communism. We also had an afternoon tea at the famous 1852 Casa Capsa. This restaurant was Le Dome with the beautiful exterior which we used as our landmark to get around the old town section. We were lucky enough to be there on a night when the Water Fountain Night Show took place. That’s the Parliament Building lit up in the background. Attribution: Mikesroadtrip.com These water fountains in Unirii Square are described as one of the most impressive choreographed water displays in the world and a must see if in Bucharest where thousands attend. It lasted 45 minutes with music and the grand finale was unbelievable. This was the night we couldn’t get a taxi and had to walk back to our hotel. People in Bucharest are Happy too! I thought the old town section of Bucharest was fantastic. Great shops, restaurants and bars. Even some shady areas if interested. I promise we only looked with one eye covered! “Look Suzanne, they serve dirty martinis over there!” We left Bucharest on a bus for Transylvania but we’ll be back before leaving the country. A beautiful drive through the mountains. King Charles owns about ten properties here and even Prince George has one that he received as a christening gift. Saying the scenery was beautiful doesn’t do it justice. We stayed in the City of Brasov during our Transylvania visit. I truly loved this city and especially the nightlife in the square with all the outdoor restaurant seating. The bean and ham soup served in the loaf of bread was to die for. Right off the square is the Biserica Neagră Cathedral, a working Church and the main city historical museum. The construction began in the 14th century. There are many legends about the statue of a boy leaning over from the roof. The one that we were told was that the architect’s son was on top of the roof during construction when one of the workers pushed him off to this death. The architect placed the statue there in memory of his son. During our visit, we stayed at the Raddison Blu Aurum Hotel in Bravo. It was one of the strangest places that I have ever stayed and that includes sleeping inside a cave in Turkey for several nights. The hotel was extremely modern with the halls lined with black and white photographs, not sure what this photograph over our beds was about but we had trouble operating everything — TV, air conditioner, shower and kept having to ask for assistance! Too modern for me but the breakfasts were fantastic and the pool and bar on the hotel’s roof were also! (Rexxmama, I forgot to bring my spandex swimwear!) Peles Castle, a Neo-renaissance palace, was constructed for King Carol 1. My Romanian friend, Veronica, said if she could pick only one place for us to visit that this would be it. No words can really describe it. Two women right beside me were grabbed by security as they tried to stick a camera up the mouth of this horse’s coat of armor (middle left). Absolutely no idea what that was about or the strong foreign words spoken by both parties. It was the gardens that really attracted me. I could have spent the day in them. The next day we explored the wonderful barbican Câlnic Fortress a World Heritage Site in Calnic. Calnic has a long history of being an ethnic German Transylvanian Saxon community. Most of the houses showed German influence. The chimneys were covered with stork nests. The storks come up from Africa staying from March to August. If you look closely at the nest on the bottom right, you will see a black hole in the middle of the nest. It was occupied by sparrows flying in and out! The storks will use their nests for several years and one in Romania is documented as being occupied since 1934. Next up was a visit to Sighisoara, listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. We explored the Clock Tower built in the 13th and 14th centuries. I actually climbed to the top of the tower (panting) to see the inside mechanicals of the clock. The bottom right is a model of the city. Okay, pull out your garlic. This is the house where Vlad Dracul was born in 1431. A restaurant and museum now occupy the building. The food was pretty good. Other than us, the rest of the tourists were Japanese. A Dracula Park was planned for the city inside the well-preserved, walled historic district which dates to the 13th century. The uproar from preservationists, including England’s Prince Charles, caused it to be moved to another site. Dracula will appear again a bit further down the diary. Next up is my favorite place during the entire trip. The photographs in no way do the site justice. This was in the village of Viscri and the incredible Viscri Fortified Church. I just cannot describe this place as it was like walking back in time with absolutely nothing touristy in the entire village. A woman heard Suzanne and I talking and stopped dead in her tracks to ask if we were Americans. I replied yes and she broke out into a huge grin and said they never see Americans here as 99% are always Germans. The roads are still cobblestones from the Roman days. Prince Charles (I’m sorry King Charles) has had a hand in preserving this village. It’s the timelessness of it which is so remarkable, almost out of some of those stories one used to read as a child. It’s quite remarkable. People are yearning for that sense of belonging and identity and meaning. His Royal Highness, Prince Charles of Wales This short video of King Charles about his love of Transylvania especially the Viscri area. A one minute video of a cottage in Viscri owned by King Charles. Okay this is the last site visited during the trip and the one you have all been waiting for — Bran Castle, better known as Dracula’s Castle. The castle started in 1211 was completed in 1388. Here is a link to the Myth of Count Dracula. Vlad Dracul has to be one of the worse humans to ever walk on this earth. I was appalled to hear the torturous things he did to people. The castle was very interesting and I did climb to the very top tower but it was too full of wall to wall tourists to truly enjoy being there. Warning! (If you are eating breakfast, please put away your food before reading this. The second photo in the top row, look at the two small extended structures at the top with open bottoms. These were the toilets!!) This was the only deer seen and first time I have seen one with fuzz completely covering its antlers. Middle right was a Roma village but didn’t see any people or vehicles. Bottom middle pic — closed factory windows were like an abstract painting. The Rom Candy Bar was the only choice of chocolate bar available during the old communist regime. We tried one and really didn’t like it. We ended up back in Budapest at the Marriott again for a few days before catching our flight back home. We had some foreign currency to get rid of so we treated ourselves to some very nice meals. I have never before witnessed such a disorganized and difficult airport. There were people sleeping everywhere on the floors and no idea why. After many delays, you can see how crowded our flight was to Paris. The steward didn’t have much room to make it down the narrow aisle. One of the souvenirs that I brought back was Covid. We wore masks on all air flights and almost all public transportation but I think I caught it on the flight back from Romania to Paris to Atlanta to Hartford. I tested positive three days after our return. Suzanne did not but she had caught Covid earlier in March traveling back from Israel. Suzanne’s problem was that her luggage didn’t show up until two days after our return. I am not much of a souvenir buyer as collecting rocks during travels has always been my thing. Though years ago I did start buying eyeglass frames. I have them from Venice, Mykonos, Santorini and Vina Del Mar. While in Belgrade, Serbia, I did buy these Tom Ford frames, much cheaper than they would have been in the States, especially since they were made in nearby Italy. I also bought this set of Roe Deer antlers from this Belgrade seller. He was very happy with my purchase, perhaps his only sale for the day. Later he spotted me on a busy pedestrian street and said if he saw me again that he was going to take me to a bar and buy me a drink. Perhaps a dirty martini, kind sir? Of course I had to get some Hungarian Paprika in Pecs along with a beautiful cloth grocery bag that I cannot locate. (I bet it’s in P’s car) After I returned, my Romanian friend, Veronica, wanted to hear all about my trip so our Turkish friend, Nick, recommended the Transylvania restaurant in East Haven, Connecticut. Veronica and I traveled an hour together to meet him there but then found the restaurant doesn’t serve lunch on Monday and Tuesdays so we ate at a greasy diner across the road. :-( Still it seems everywhere I turn now there is Hotel Transylvania Candy. I know this was too long and for that I apologize, though I did enjoy putting it together and reliving the memories. So what is up in your garden world today? Let me be the first to wish you a Happy Halloween!! 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