(C) Verite News New Orleans This story was originally published by Verite News New Orleans and is unaltered. . . . . . . . . . . Gumbo Z’herbes: A Holy Thursday tradition [1] ['Tammy C. Barney', 'More Tammy C. Barney', 'Verite News'] Date: 2024-03-28 Today is Holy Thursday – the day that Christians believe Jesus had the Last Supper with his disciples and washed their feet. In New Orleans, this also is the day that people, regardless of their religion, color or creed, head to Dooky Chase Restaurant for Gumbo Z’herbes. A bowl of gumbo z’herbes at Dooky Chase Restaurant. Credit: Courtesy of Julie D. Henderson The restaurant has served the dish of multiple greens and meat accompanied by rice, fried chicken and cornbread on Holy Thursday since 1973. The late renowned chef Leah Chase only made the dish once a year, she said, “because it’s hard to make.” In a 2019 Very Local article, Chase explained the Creole tradition: “The Catholics on Holy Thursday, we go to Mass and then we have one dinner; this big dinner where we can eat meat and everything. And then on Friday, they wouldn’t give you anything to eat. You’d be stealing a piece of bread. They want you to fast all day Friday, so on Holy Thursday you cook these greens and you put a whole lot of meat in them.” According to the World Culture Encyclopedia, the week before Easter, also known as Holy Week, is closely observed by Creoles as a religious celebration and custom with a touch of superstition. “On Holy Thursday morning, housewives, when they heard the ringing of church bells, used to take pots from the stove and place them on the floor, making the sign of the cross,” the Encyclopedia states. “Also, nine varieties of greens were cooked — a concoction known as gumbo shebes. On Good Friday, Creoles visited churches on foot and in silence to bring good fortune.” Chase’s recipe has a lot of meat – sausage, ham, veal and chicken – and a variety of greens: collards, mustard, turnip, beet tops, cabbage, lettuce, watercress, spinach and carrot tops. And, no matter what, only an odd number of greens were used. Some have said the odd number relates to the Stations of the Cross, a series of images depicting Jesus Christ on the day of his crucifixion. Chase said it was superstition. “You can’t put two kinds: you can’t just put mustards and collards in, and call it a day. That’s bad luck,” she said during a John Hopkins University Press interview. “You’ve got to go with the uneven numbers, dear, so you don’t take a chance.” In addition, she said, “we think that you will get a new friend for every green we have in the pot. And we always hope you have a rich one in the bunch.” Julie Henderson, executive assistant to the president/CEO for DePaul Community Health Centers, has been spending Holy Thursday at Dooky Chase for 13 years. She says it is a New Orleans tradition that can’t be missed. “The Gumbo Z’herbes is meaty and flavorful. A healthy dose of greens. The fried chicken is unmistakably the best and consistently tastes the same,” she said. “The most enjoyable part is the fellowship. You see everybody in New Orleans. The politicians, judges, clergy, lawyers, doctors, mail carriers, bus and truck drivers. You name it, ya Mama and dem are there!” Related Republish This Story Republish our articles for free, online or in print, under a Creative Commons license. [END] --- [1] Url: https://veritenews.org/2024/03/28/gumbo-zherbes-a-holy-thursday-tradition/ Published and (C) by Verite News New Orleans Content appears here under this condition or license: Creative Commons BY-NC-ND 3.0 US. via Magical.Fish Gopher News Feeds: gopher://magical.fish/1/feeds/news/veritenews/