!Orthodox Christmas --- agk's diary 9 January 2024 @ 13:21 UTC --- written on ThinkPad X61/HP 15" monitor/Model M keys at kitchen table; daughter puts her babies to sleep --- On Orthodox Christmas this year I woke in the tent next to first daughter. It was 1C after 12 hours of rain. My feet were warm, so was she. I helped her get boots on. She went outside to pee. I followed. I ate leftover lentils and rice, reheated oatmeal on a camp stove for her, sausages and cheese for us both. Heated milk. Hot chocolate with butter and coconut oil for my thermos, for later. Evy and Bugz arrived in 25-year-old Toyota 4-Runner while I got into caving clothes: wool tights, wool socks, cheap pink synthetic workout top, camo fatigue pants. Grabbed helmets, gloves, boots. We headed to the picnic shelter where people drank coffee and waited to cave. I led 3 cavers from 3 states through one of my favorite caves. One's a friend, two strangers. Evy and Bugz stayed with daughter. Us 4 splashed and wiggled through silt, clay, rushing water, and rock, 13C warmer than the outside world. Over an hour in, I told the crew "tower domes," said to be spectacular, were down a passage to our left. I'd never found them. We hunted crawls and dead-ends for another hour. Then the ceiling was gone. Headlamps up, 125 feet, we stood below the first of the domes. Majesty, impossibility. Head leaned back to drink a waterfall. Headlamps off. Listen to the cathedral below the crest of the ridge.