Christmas Eve is known as Sviata Vechera in the Ukraine, and the following is a description of their celebration. It is from the cookbook "Festive Ukrainian Cooking" by Marta Pisetska Farley. The traditional year for the Ukrainians started with the great period of abstinence called Pylypivka (Advent). By fasting on certain days and restraining from dancing, Ukrainians prepared themselves for Christmas and its celebration. Until quite recently, Ukrainians celebrated the Christmas season from Christmas Eve (January 6, O.S) to the Feast of Jordan (January 19, O.S.). The Birth Of Christ (Rizdvo Klustove) started the church calendar for Uniate and Orthodox Christians alike. As with many great feasts, the eve (navecherie) preceding the day marked the beginning of the celebration. Christmas Eve ended with Holy Supper (Sviata Vechera). However there was much preparation beforehand. Before partaking of the Christmas Eve meal, the family fasted all day. The house was put to order, but no outside work was done. All members wore festive clothing. This was a holy day. The tone of the supper was that of "festive dignity". The meal officially began with the sighting of the first star, a task assigned to the children. The male head of the household (hospodar) took a bowl of Kutia (flummery) and invited the should of all the departed family members to partake of the meal. He invited the forces of nature to share in the meal and to protect the family from natural calamities in the coming year. Specific rituals and spells to placate nature's fury differed regionally. One important ritual that prevailed in many households was the communal sharing of bread and honey. The Hospodar to a plate with small pieces of kolach and a dish containing honey and salt and dipping each piece of bread lightly into the honey, approached each member of the household, starting with the eldest. "Chrystos razhdayet'sia" ("Christ is born"); he was answered "Slavite Yeho" ("Let us glorify Him"), The female head of the household (hospodynia) repeated the greeting. After that the supper began, dish following dish, ending with kutia or uzvar, depending on which one began the celebration. Each family in each locality developed its own adaptation of this meal, so that there were many variations on a basic theme. After the meal, the hospodar visited the barn animals and added kutia to their food. This custom reflected the strong belief that the dish had magical properties far greater than the sum of the ingredients would suggest. The animals were believed to be endowed with speech on Christmas Eve, as a gift from God for their service to the Christ Child on the night of His birth. Other ritual activities were important ot varying degrees in different regions. The menu for Sviata Vechera varied from province to province in execution and in order of presentation. The number of dishes ranged from twelve (most common) to nine or seven. Each number had magical associations. The table was set with specific items. The table was strewn with hay, symbol of fertility and abundant harvest, then covered with a cloth. A large kolach flanked by candles, was placed in the center of the table. A dish of salt and a dish of honey were put at the host's place. On a sideboard, a lit candle with a dish of kutia commemorated the family's dead. An extra place for the unexpected guest remained set until the end of the meal. A sheaf of wheat, symbol of abundance and nature itself, graced a corner of the room. Christmastime lasted three days, January 7-9 (O.S.). Guests and neighbors were invited to visit on Christmas Day and on the second and third days of Christmas. Treats were numerous, primarily nuts, sweet cookies, or rolls. Visits were frequent and convivial. Among all the groups of people, caroling was the main outdoor activity. Koliady and shchedrivky were sung throughout the Christmas season, an ancient practice probably traceable to Roman influence. Every peer group - Hospodari, hospodyni, girls, and young men - went about the village or town and greeted each household with these seasonal songs. Each group had its own appropriate repertory that differed from region to region, but the custom of caroling was all pervasive. Koliadnyky (carolers) were invited into the homes and given treats, food and drink; horilka (whiskey) to hospodari, nuts and fruits to the boys and girls. Today, in the United States and Canada, koliada is used as a vehicle through which Ukrainian charities solicit donations. The gift now is money. Children and young adults still visit Ukrainian homes and sing the ancient "Bob Predvichnyi" ("God Eternal") and receive traditional treats. Christmas was followed by Mulanka (New Year's Eve), January 13 (O.S.). The holiday had fused with an old celebration know as Shchedryi Vechir (Generous Evening). Foods prepared for this evening differed regionally. In the Dnipro area, pies with meat filling and buckwheat pancakes with sausages were offered. In the southern Ukraine, bubyky (small savory rolls) found popularity. In the Hutzul area, in the Carpathain Mountains, vareyky were featured. One old custom for welcoming the new year was the practice of zasivannia (sowing). A young boy took a sack of wheat and went from house to house, greeting everyone with the New Year, scattering the grain on the floor and reciting appropriate verses of good wishes. For this greeting, he was rewarded with coins. Some housewives hurriedly offered the coins so as not to have an excess of "good wishes" to clean up. Yordan-Vodokhreschenia (Jordan-Blessing On The Waters) signaled the end of the Christmas celebrations. On the eve of January 19 (O.S.), a scaled down version of Sylata Vechera was served. This had the popular name of holodna kutia (hungry meal). On the feast day (praznyk) itself, after the church service, everyone went to the local stream or river where the men had carved a large cross from the river's ice, often stained red with beet juice. There, the cross and the waters were blessed by the priest. This was a combined effort to celebrate the Christian feast of Christ's baptism and to "buy protection" from the forces of nature from Spring floods. Modern Adaptation of Sviata Vechera (Christmas Eve) The modern adaption of Sviata Vechera is faithful to some of the old traditions discussed above. The house is cleaned, the table set with the best china and candles. One candle and one dish of kutia are placed in the window in memory of the souls of ancestors -- or more recently, in memory of the Ukrainian soldiers who fought in the war for the Ukraine's independence in 1918. An extra place is set for the unexpected guest. The table is covered by an embroidered linen cloth. A large kolach with Christmas greenery (instead of the traditional straw or hay) serves as the centerpiece. A plate with small pieces of kolach and a dish of honey is set at the head of the family's place. In the corner of the room, a Christmas tree decorated with handmade ornaments substitutes for the ancient sheaf of wheat (didukh). The same basic dishes are prepared and served in traditional order. Dietary restrictions have been somewhat modified by the church, and many cooks cheat a little by including ingredients that were formerly banned. These include eggs, butter, and cheeses, which are used primarily in the preparation of kolach, pampushky, and fillings for varenyky. It is very proper for families to develop personal adaptions of the basic Sviata Vechera menu. Some families dote on fried fish or marinated herring (a perennial favorite). Some prefer the fancy fish quennelles. Some serve two or three fish courses. Individual interpretations of borsch are also common. Usually, the borsch served is a full bodied but meatless "Ukrainian" borsch, which includes all the vegetables and is thickened with zaprazhka (roux). Some families serve just a clear bouillon of beet broth, kvas, and stock with vushka (Dumplings) floating on top. The target number of dishes is twelve, in honor of the apostles, or the magic numbers of nine or seven if one is superstitious. The traditional menu adapted usually includes braided bread (kolach) with honey, beet soup or broth (borsch) and dumplings (vushka) with mushroom filling, fish in aspic, or in any other style, stuffed cabbage leaves (holubtsi) with mushroom sauce, dumplings (varenyky) filled with mashed potatoes and sauted onions, dumplings filled with cabbage and sauerkraut, compote of dried fruit (uzvar), flummery (kutia) of wheat kernels with honey, poppy seeds, etc., tea with lemon, yeast raised doughnuts (pampushky) with rose preserves.