This short article (subtitled "Desperation Dinners") and recipe appeared in yesterday's (08/21) "Palm Beach Post:" *USE WINE TO FLAVOR ANY DISH* Put a splash of spirit into an ordinary night, and you've just uncorked one of the primary secrets of great chefs. We've known for years that pouring a touch of wine into even a plain spaghetti sauce can add a depth of flavor you just can't get any other way. But for run-of-the-mill weeknights, wine can present a problem. If we have to open a fresh bottle just to pour half a cup into stew, we'll feel obligated to drink the rest since it doesn't store that well. The solution is to buy fortified wines. Because these wines are fortified with brandy, they retain their flavor for up to two months or more. Sherry is brobably the fortified wine most cooks think of first, but Madiera, Marsala and port work, too.